LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



Shelf. ..B-ll"" 

UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. 



! ..:-ji!-oll 



(3ranb XErunk IRailwa^ 

AND THE 

Richelieu and Ontario 
NAVIGATION CO.'S STEAMERS 

IS THE 

GREAT PLEASURE ROUTE, 

. OFFERING A MOST ATTRACTIVE SELECTION OF 

POPULAR EXCURSIONS 

Via Niagara Falls, River St. Lawrence, with Thousand 
Islands and Rapids, Montreal, Quebec, Rivet Sague- 
nay, Gulf Ports, Lower Provinces, Lake Cham- 
plain and Lake George, Saratoga, The 
White Mountains, Etc., Etc. 



Pullman Palace Sleeping Cars will be attached to the evening train 
from Niagara Falls at 4:35 P. M., and will run through to Kingston 
Wharf, where passengers can remain in the car until the boat arrives, 
at 5 o'clock, A. M. 

The Sea Side and White Mountains Special Limited Vestibuled 
Train will leave Chicago every Wednesday, commencing June 5th, 
for Portland, returning on Sunday evening. This entire train is 
lighted by electricity, and runs through, solid, from Chicago to Port- 
land the White Mountains, and the Sea Side resorts. See special 
advertisements. 

Daily Fast Express train will also be run from Portland at g:oo 
A. M. to Toronto, Hamilton, Port Huron and Chicago, requiring 

., ONE NIGHT ONLY 

on the road to any of these points. This is the only line reaching 
Muskoka Lake and Parry Sound districts. 

Tickets and information may be obtained at the principal ticket 
offices, also of the agents of the Grand Trunk Railway Company, 
from whom excursions and tourists' routes and rates of fare can be 
obtained. 



JOSEPH HICKSON, Gen'l Man'gr G. T. R. J CHABOT. Gen'l Man'gr R. & 0. N. Co. 
WM, EDGAR, Gen, Pass. Agt. G. T. R. ALEX. MILLOY, Traffic Manager. 



THE^ 



''Phat doy's'' 



17 X^ars on the ^t Lawrence. 



THK f^kople: ivikt and tjhe: 

THINQS SEKN. 



f{ * Qaide * for * Joijrists * apd * Jraueli^rs. 



NINTH EDITION. COPYRIGHTED, 1890. 



L F. BABBAGE, 




ROCHESTER, N. Y.: 

DEMOCRAT AND CHRONICLE PRINT, 47 & 49 EAST MAIN STREET. 



CK 




THE ONLY DR. BABBAGE IN AMERICA. 

This is a picture of my Jwin Brother, Dr. E. F. 
Babbage, of 8i E. Main St., Rochester, N. Y., the 
renowned specialist and inventor of Rheumatic Victor 
sure^specific for Rheumatism ; also Phat of Life, the 
ereat stomach, brain and nerve food. 

State symptoms and enclose $i.oo for treatment. 



INTRODUCTION. 



1 N presenting tliis work, ''The Phat Boy's Seventeen 
A Years on the St. Lawrence River," I am aware 
that financial or personal ends are always the para- 
mount object to be attained by an individual who puts 
forth anything in this world. I therefore plead* guilty 
to the above charge, and for so doing purpose to 
give to the tourist or traveler down this grandest 
of tri43s, a faithful description of every point of 
interest that meets the eye of the beholder. 

"The People I Have Met and the Things I Have. 
Seen," is the outgrowth of the nine editions that have 
been issued by me and cheerfully received by the 
public. It is the only correct guide for the tourist or 
traveler down this majestic stream, as it is compiled 
from the thousand and one questions answered, that 
were asked me by parties who passed down the trip 
during my ten years of service as " Guide to the St. 
Lawrence." It is my honesty and good faith to state 
what prompted this issue. 

I feel capable of compiling a book which, although 
it does not contain any pictorial illustrations of 
the scenic beauty connected with the trip, I am 
confident that a plain, unvarnished description of all 



the various points of interest would be sufficient 
Ttie tourist can thus feast the eye on a thousand 
pictures that a volume ten times this size could not 
contain, for no matter how often you open the eyes- 
during the day, they will fall upon some delightful 
scene, where the God of Nature has smiled upon her. 
within an hour. Neither have I given a highly colored 
description of the Rapids ; they have been viewed and 
described by thousands, and the effect produced is as 
varied in character as the individual writers differed in 
temperament and looks. • 

Trusting this volume may meet with as cheerful a. 
greeting by the public as it has always accorded my 
efforts to please, and if its perusal causes the weary or 
lonesome traveler one hour of mirth or pleasure, its 
mission will have been accomplished. 
Respectfully yours, 

E. F. BABBAGE, " Phat Boy," 

Guide to the St. Lawrence. 



u 



THE PHAT BOY'S" 17 YEARS 

ON 

THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 



THE St. Lawrence River, with its Thousand Islands 
and Rapids, is day by day attracting more and 
more attention among tourists. There is so much 
that is grand, weird, sublime and exhilarating in the 
scenery and balmy atmosphere of the majestic river, 
as it passes in its onward flow from the lake to the 
gulf, that we' need not for a moment wonder why it 
is that there is a great annual increase in the number 
of those intelligent people, who, from East, West 
and South, repair to its placid waters in summer to 
recuperate their wasted energies, and enjoy that 
luxuriating season known to every American as 
" vacation." 

A vacation on the St. Lawrence means a sojourn at 
some pretentious or lowly cottage, or at some hotel 
of either class for a few days, or for one, two or more 
weeks, as the time, finances and inclinations of the 
individual may dictate ; or it may, as in hundreds of 
instances it does, only include a voyage of rapid 
transit from New York to Utica, Clayton, Niagara 
Falls, Lewiston, Toronto or Kingston to Alexandria 
Bay or Montreal, then return home. There are 
several different popular starting places to reach the 
river ; it is presumed you will take the most conven- 
ient one, and we will consider ourselves pleased with 
the selection. 



HERE IS WHERE YOU BEGIN, 

dear reader, to peruse an effort of mine which has 
taken up my leisure moments for the past eight 
months ; it is not a physical effort, or it would have 
been larger, but being a literary one is a good reason 
why it can be held within such a small space as two 
hundred pages. A physical effort anywhere near my 
size you would have very little use for. While trav- 
eling, where could you store it away? No sardine 
box Would hold it. You could not put it into a satchel 
or trunk nor tuck it away in any little convenient 
place. But this little volume can be carried most 
anywhere. I have tried to make it of such a desirable 
size that it can rest secure in the coat pocket, shawl- 
strap or in the hand. It is a dose for an adult, not to 
be shaken before taken, as you are expected to shake 
until your sides ache before you get through it ; do 
not be in a hurry ; take it easy, it is more pleasant 
that way. - Do not feel offended if your name is not 
mentioned among " The People I Have Met." Think 
what a large head it would take to contain all I have 
passed through ; but console yourself that you may 
be among ''The Things I Have Seen." 

It is a pleasure as well as a duty to state that I am 
indebted to Mr. George C. Hawley, Stenographer, of 
Rochester, New York, who so ably assisted me in taking, 
my dictation for this work. 

"DON'T DO IT." 

This startling head-line, when it strikes the eye, 
denotes that there is something to be said of personal 
benefit to the reader of the article, and we hope to 
make it pleasant as well as profitable to thoae who 



take the time to peruse it. To begin with, we desire 
to say, don't get fat ; do not allow yourself to 
develop beyond the line which is laid down for the 
average man or woman ; because, ,if you do, the 
average chair will not fit, the average seat in a railroad 
coach will be too small ; you will be obliged to shrink 
into it, and then take up the seat of another after you 
get in. The same trouble will occur at amusements, 
which you enjoy very much, but it so distorts 
you to occupy the chair that the pleasure is lost ; 
the average door to a hack is too small, and so 
is the omnibus, and you are obliged to walk. Here 
you will enjoy it, especially if it is a little slippery, 
dropping now and then three hundred and thirty 
pounds, because your friend thinks it does not hurt a 
fat man to fall. You will get no sympathy from any 
one, this I guarantee, because I have tried it. By 
way of illustration, if I had not eaten anything for 
three days but a yard of pump water, and was to come 
to a friend and say I was hungry, and had not had 
anything to eat for three days, he would look me all 
over, and in reply would say: "Well, I guess you 
can stand it until next fall." So the fleshier you are, 
the less sympathy you get. And " If Dr. Tanner stood 
it for forty days, you have sufficient fat to last you 
six months, to say the least." Second, you become, as 
it were,, a curiosity, and all look at you with amaze- 
ment and wonder what circus or side show you 
escaped from, or to what dime museum you belong. 
Third, there isn't anything made for the average man 
that will fit you, therefore everything must be xmade to 
order that you wear, except a necktie, pair of socks 
or handkerchief. The latter must be seven-eights of 



s 



a vanl wiilo ii\ (mhKm- to hoM the |HM-spii-at iiMi it will 
im>p up III i>iu'o passiui^ o\ cr \oiii' iuanl\' hiow- 
I'Vunlh. wluMi at llu" .i,u^~ ^*l •' ' . -'"^1 woii^hin.u -:.\s 
poiiiuls. 1 IkuI no troiihlr in making a scliH'titMi ot a 
partiua tor lil'c, Sho oIiiiiIuhI the i^oUlon stairs ahoat 
mno \oais a^o, and now 1 am lair, tat. tunny anJ 
liMtv; wouUl p.iss ui a oiowil lor thirt\tinu\ it my 
dau^htor was not aiounJ. It ! linJ ono now who hn es 
a tat man I am a liltlo loo tat ihoiiMoio, this woiUI 
is V(.M\' ohill\ tor nu\ 

Altor vou l\a\o biH'omo a little abo\o the average 
size, as 1 ha\e m de\eh>pment, anJ are eonspieuous, 
evcMxlnnlx will know \ou ; it thev do not, it will be 
easN lot them to liiul out ; all the\' are obliged to do 
is to ask .invone, \ ou will not know only those ot 
vour relations Awd trieiuls \er\ near to you. Then 
this woiUl will be vcmv lonesvMiie aiui eoKl, or your 
i^vpenenee will be ditterent trom mine. No one 
will ever ask vou to ** L^el in and tvike a ride," uo 
matiiM what the eireumslvinees mav be as lhe\ think 
ot" torly aeeidents tluit mij^ht oeeur, and yi>u are too 
lar^e vi bodv tor the average springs or seat in any 
vehieK\ It would be a treat (were vou not sensitive) 
it" you eould walk one bloek and hoar the expressions 
that otMiu^ from the vulvar ihronii' as they pass (^no 
tem.de, with eyes like two saucors. exclaimed : "(ilory 
be to the lather, Nhiry Ann, phwai s that ? " And 
vinother s.ivs, "T.ott in himmel, what a tat man," or a 
lady ot" eolor decLue, ** I'mph 1 I'mph! I Pat am de 
fatttsi man I ebber seed." 



9 

SIR WALTER PELHAM, ENGLAND'S 
GREATEST HUMORIST, 

paid tlic Tlioiisaiul Islands a visit, and oave his uniciue 
entcMiainnicnt s in dilTiM'cnl places. While in a (U)nver- 
sation with him on I he dock one day a sleand)()al arrived 
with ahont two hnndred passen^-ers on hoard and 
remained ahout fifteen nnnntes, dnrino' vvhieh time Mr. 
I'elham stood l)\' m\' side taking; in the sitnation. After 
the boat had left he remaiked that it was a fortnnate 
tiiino- to me tiiat I was not sensitive in regard to my 
j)ersonal appearance, et(\ " iM)r," said he, "of these two 
himdred passeiiL^crs 1 do not helieve one of them missed 
seeino- yon and scannini;- )'oni' maidy form from head to 
foot. I would sii^Li'est that when yon die you be placed 
in a memorial window foi' futui"e Li'ene rat ions to gaze 
U|)on." When he had fmished these complimentary 
remarks I presented him a copy of my book. The,next 
day a poem was handed me, togetlier with Mr. Pelham's 
(U)m|)liments, and 1 am soi-ry to say that it has been lost, 
strayed or stolen, and e()nse(piently I am unable to pro- 
duce it in full, and can only give what little I remember. 

/'Vvv;/ I'lori-ihc /o A". /'". /uiii/xt^r. 

hi your " People I have nicl aiul the khiii^s that I have seen," 
1 notice you your widowerhood (le|)lore ; 

Now, 1 am a slender niaid, 

Not of adipose afraid, 
Who could love you if you scaled a hundred more. 

if you were twice your si/e, my sij^hs die same I'd breathe, 
i^'at ne'er i)uts out a llanie thnt's lit by love ; 
Then come along with me, 
And let us married be. 
And be my little, popsie wopsie dove. 



lO 

For when we two are one, the better half then I, 
Your adipose of course will half be mine, 

Therefore at once agree, 

Oh ! think how sad 'twill be. 
Thy Fatima for you to longer pine. 

Oh, guide of sweet St. Lawrence, devote your fat to Florence 
And leave the wandering river's flowing tide ; 

The beauty of the waters 

Compare not with Eve's daughters, 
So make me just the happiest of brides. 

Then board the nuptial craft, or matrimonial raft. 
Your oil will sure subdue life's stormy waves ; 

And live with me in peace, 

And have our joys in grease, 
Till called to lard our vaults or common graves. 

" Till death do us part, as it were, etc." 



A MAN dropped dead in Spokane, Washington, the 
other day on his way to mail a letter to his wife telling 
her he was well. — Utica Herald. 



" I ASSURE you. Doctor, my husband has just had a 
very good idea." "And yet I expressly warned him 
against over-exertion." — Fliegende Blatter. 



Bobby — " Why do they have that big lantern in front of 
the engine, papa?" 

Papa — (With memories of the past) — " To warn travel- 
ling actors, Bobby." — Texas Sif tings. 

Patti ha$ reached her native $liore, 

Her $ilvery tone$ we'll hear no more ; 

Her " Home, $weet Home" wa$ dearly $weet — 

We $pent a "V" for one back $eat. 

— Chicago Evening Post. 



II 

Old Man — " What bo3^s were those pla3nng foot ball on 
my lawn ?" 

Eddie — ''Them wasn't a foot ball." 

Old Man — " If it was not a foot ball what was it ?" 

Eddie — "Why, that was som'thin' grows in a cow ; they 
blowed it up with wind and was kicking it to see who 
could kick it furtherest." — Rochester Post-Express. 



- Belle — " And you say that young Mrs. Stanton cannot 
go on the stage ?" 

Henriette — "Yes, 'tis true. The manager says he can- 
not recognize a divorce decree more than six years old." 

_^^//^_'' What's to prevent ?" 

Henriette — ■'' I believe she said the statute of limita- 
tions." — Rochester Post-Express. 



Ike Weir, the pugilist, declares that if he " cannot 
arrange a fight with some one very soon, he will go to 
work," Cannot this impending calamity be averted? 
Give Weir a chance to wrestle with a hungry tiger, so 
that he may not be compelled to disgrace his profession. 
— Norristown Herald. 



Miss Ann Gular — (In the hosiery department). 'T wish 
to see some embroidered hose, please." 

Salesman — " Yes'm. These are the finest made. " 

Miss Ann Gular — " How much are they ?" 

Salesman — " Five dollars a pair.'" 

Miss Ann Gular — "H'm. . They come pretty high, 
don't they ?" 

Salesman — "Well, yes, Ma'am, they do ; but you must 
remember you are a tall woman." — Smithy Gray 6^ Co.'s 
Monthly, 



12 

McD. — "By the way, Dennis, here's the dollar I 
borried of ye last wake." 

McQ. {^pocketing the coin). — " Bedad, Pat, I had forgot 
all aboot it.'" 

McD. — " Tare an' ages ! Why the divil did n't ye let 
me know that ?" — Puck. 



Keeping silent for lo days is said to be a sure cure for 
stammering. ■ Now will someone tell of a sure cure of 
which women can avail themselves ? — Albany Express. 



When a Chinaman goes on the stage he loses caste, 
he and his children being deprived of citizenship for 
four generations. Judging from the specimens of Chi- 
nese actors we have seen, this provision seems a pecu- 
liarly just and necessary one. — N. V. Mij^ror. 



A GENTLEMAN who imagined that he recognized a lady 
friend advanced cordially and addressed her : — 

" I beg pardon," he said, *' but isn't this Miss 
Greenleaf ? " 

" No, sir ;" replied the lady, " my, name is Redpath." 

'* Ah, excuse me — I must be color blind." — Texas 
Sif tings. 



" Curious how tastes change." 
"How?" 

"Why, Bellamy has made a fortune out of * Looking 
Backward,' but it swamped Lot's wife." — Chatter. 



Miss A. — " Jack is attracted by Miss Gilter's money 
rather than by her personal charms, isn't he ?" 

Miss B. — " I judge so. I heard him speak of her the 
other day as his financee." — Life. 



13 

Mi's. Bi'owTi. — " Johnnie will worry the life out of us in 
the train unless he has something to munch on. I'll get 
him some candy." 

Bronm. — " Nonsense. It would take 50 cents' worth. 
Get him a railroad sandwich." — Munseys Weekly. 

A Melbourne manager advertises for coryphees who 
*' must not be over thirty years old." Let the Australian 
ballet reform proceed. — Philadelphia Ledger. 



Was the phrase " high and dry " invented to apply to 
the tall gentleman from Kentucky ? — Washington Post. 



First Housekeeper. — " What is your idea of the height 
of sarcasm ?" 

Second Housekeeper -—'' Calling servants * help.' " — 
Somerville Journal. 



The meanest man in Maine lives near Lewiston. He 
had an only son, who was drafted and killed in the war ; 
The father now says : "■ I was short-sighted in not pay- 
ing I400 for a substitute, for I have been forced to hire 
men ever since to help carry on the farm, and it has cost 
me thousands above the price of a substitute. Besides, 
he was a master hand to work, and the smallest eater I 
ever saw." — Lewiston journal. 



Newived. — " How long does a man have to be married 
before his wife agrees with him in everything ?" 

Oldwed (mournfully): — ''You'll have to ask somebody 
else, my boy ; I've only been married 40 years." — Epoch. 



Russian students still sing "God Preserve the Czar," 
but they don't say in what. — San Francisco Alta. 



14 



Aunt. — "Well, Bobby, what do you want to be when 
you grow up ?" 

Bobby (remembering private seance in the woodshed) 
— "An orphan." — San Fi^ancisco Call. 



The greatest hunter in the world is paying New 
Orleans a visit. They call him Babbage the "That 
Boy." He shoots the St. Lawrence Rapids every day. 
— N. O. Picayune. 



A Georgia editor says that a man who would cheat a 
country editor out of a year's subscription would give a 
nickel with a hole in it to the foreign missionary fund, 
and sigh because the hole was not bigger than the 
nickel. — Atlanta Constitution. 



First. — Do not take more than one girl. 

Second. — Do not take any girl. 

Third. — Do not go to the picnic— iV. Y. Herald. 



Three new and powerful tugs are shortly to be added 
to the navy. It is scarcely necessary to add that they 
will be tugs of war. — Phila. Press. 



A girl who was brimful oi laughter, 

Always said when acquaintances chaughed her, 

" You see, it's my style ; 

I can't help but smyle ; 
Tt seems that I really haugh ter. " — Washington Post. 



Hailstone. — * One last request." 
Reporter.—'' What is that ?" 

Hailstone. — " Please don't say I was as big as a hen's 
^%'g.'' — Binghamton Leader. 



15 

A MASHER isn't much of a climber, but he knows how 
to get up stares. — N. Y. Journal. 

The adhesive postage stamp has come to stay. It 
sticks through all Administrations.— iY. O. Picayune. 



Old Million. — '' What ? Want to marry my daughter ? 
Why, the child is hardly out of school dresses yet. She 
needs a mother's care as much as ever, sir." Young 
Poorchap—'' Oh, that's all right. I'll live here."— Z//>. 



Rev. Mr, Winkwunk—'' My hearers, I shall have to ask 
your indulgence for a few minutes. I forgot my manu- 
script and have sent my little boy for it." 

His Son (coming in) — " Marm couldn't find the writin', 
but here's the book you copied it from." — Judge. 



Man realizes that woman is an insoluble enigma, but 
very few of us are willing to give her up. — N. Y. Com. 

Adv. 



Cotton may be king in its native Southland, but when 
it gets into Northern dry goods stores it is only prints. — 
Bingha7?iton Republican. 

A LITTLE ONE FOR THE BENEFIT OF 

" DANA'S " SUN. 

George P. Ewing, a congenial drummer for a cele- 
brated New York manufacturing company, chanced to 
hear a conversation between a mother and her daughter 
while taking a trip from Alexandria Bay to Montreal. 
The young lady had purchased a copy of my book, 
and after reading it had handed it to her mother, who. 



i6 

upon looking at the picture on the cover, exclaimed very 
excitedly, "Where did you get that fearful book with 
Grover Cleveland's picture on it ?" The daughter 
soothed the old lady by telling her that it was not 
Cleveland's picture, but it was a photo of Mr. Babbage, 
and the book contained a description of the St. Lawrence 
River, written by the Author after seventeen years' ser- 
vice, and a perusal of it gave her more pleasute than 
anything she had read since she left home. 

A HORSE ON THE SCHOOL MARM. 

The large verandas of the different hotels, cottages 
and houses of the Thousand Islanders, support easy 
rockers and comfortable furniture of all sorts for the 
accommodation of their guests, and when full and 
brought in close proximity, present fine opportunities to 
relate reminiscences and spin yarns until one cannot 
rest. I will say that I had the pleasure of being one of 
a lively crowd who had assembled on the balcony of one 
of the large hotels last summer ; there were twenty of us, 
and all females with the exception of myself, and I am 
a female's friend, because my little brother is a doctor. 
I soon found that I was in the midst of a lot of school 
teachers, and before I could recover my accustomed 
modesty, I was persuaded to relate a funny story ; at 
first I declined with the explanation that I could not 
think of any story that would be of interest to them, 
but, I remarked, that as you insist upon my saying 
something, and as J observe that you are all school 
teachers, I will relate the school marm story. There was 
a little red school-house in a very remote place ; two 
boys were near a window looking out ; one of the boys 
being much larger than the other, he saw in an adjoining 



17 

lot a mule , turning to his schoolmate he said : " Johnnie, 
if I had a couple of lips like that mule, I would like to 
kiss the school marm." This caused the smaller boy to 
laugh, which attracted the school teacher's attention ; 
she called him forward and interrogated him as to the 
cause of his laughter ; he said he did not care to tell. 
" But if you do not I will whip you." He related in sub- 
stance what his friend had said after much persuasion ; 
as a punishment she kept the larger boy after school. 
One of the young ladies remarked, that if she had been 
that teacher she would have whipped him right on the 
spot, and I said, " no you wouldn't, you wouldn't hit a 
boy on. the spot; that is the worst place in the world 
to strike a boy." She blushed, covered both hands with 
her face and I left. 

Messrs. COOK & TOWNSEND, of Rochester, 

N. Y., 

have, from time to time in the past, made thousands 
of people pleased with their excursions down the St. 
Lawrence, but for the past three years have been 
giving their attention to European excursions. I 
hope next year to see them bending their energies to 
again visit the majestic St. Lawrence. 

MY MEETING WITH DAVID DUDLEY 
FIELD, OR HOW I EARNED 
TWENTY-TWO CENTS. 

A season or two ago Alexandria Bay was hon- 
ored with a visit from David Dudley Field, the 
distinguished jurist. Seeing one day he was about 
to be a passenger on the boat Island Wanderer for a 
trip among the Islands, I thought I would introduce 



myself to him, and at the same time make him a present 
of my book and map, as it would give him the name of 
every island, cottage and stopping place of the boat on 
her trip. Approaching him, I said: "Mr. Field, I have 
here a little book which on page 47 commences a 
description of your trip this afternoon." He took the 
book out of my hand and upon reading the title, said : 
" I don't want anything humorous;" and I remarked 
that it was only humorous where it was not descriptive, 
and if he didn't care for it I had a picture of the St. 
Lawrence River. Before I could say any more he had 
turned the book over and saw the price of it was twenty- 
five cents, and he commenced going through almost a 
contortion of body, and fumbling in his pockets for the 
twenty-five cents to get rid of me, and I saw that his 
efforts were in vain, for all he could produce was 
twenty-two cents, and he forced me to take it, notwith- 
standmg the fact that I had said to him that I came 
there for the purpose of making him a present of my 
book, also a picture of the St. Lawrence River, which I 
repeated again. Then he said, " Why didn't you do it 
then," and my answer was, that ''You didn't give me 
time, and seeing that you have thrust this twenty-two 
cents upon me, I shall have the pleasure of keeping it 
until I return home, and then it shall go into my 
museum of curiosities. When you come and visit me 
you shall see it." , 

HOW WOMEN FISH. 

Having read various descriptions of how fishing is 
carried on by the fair sex at the several watering places, 
permit us to mention some of them. One writer said: 
"Ah! what joy to have a bite; what rare delight to find 
one's bait gone " — and it was only by the suicidal policy 



19 

of some water-weary fish who chanced to pass our way 
that we could record one fish for our day's sport. How 
different is the fishing at the Bay. 

As an illustration, a very funny anecdote was recited 
to me by Mr. J. C. Covert, editor of the Cleveland 
Leader^ who said, " Talk about ladies catching fish, I am 
somewhat of an angler myself and take a great deal of 
comfort fishing at the Bay. The other day I was out 
fishing with my wife, who, by the way, has no preten- 
sions as a captivator of the finny tribe, yet she caught 
seven fish before I had time to put my line into the 
water." This somewhat astonished me, and I remarked 
that he must have been very slow that morning. He 
answered by telling me, " No ! On the contrary, I was 
very lively; all my time was employed taking the fish 
off and baiting her hook." He entered a protest after 
that and let the boatman attend to Mrs. Covert's line 
while he enjoyed the sport. 

A gentleman says of the fishing near the Hudson : 
" The first thing a woman does when she goes fishing is 
to make herself look as hideous as possible — a sort of a 
cross between the Witch of Endor and Meg Merrilies. 
This is done by a hideous straw hat big enough to cover 
a chicken coop, the oldest and most unbecoming dress 
she has got, a pair of gloves six sizes too large, and, if 
possible, rubber boots. And the sight of woman, lovely 
woman, so dressed, presents a spectacle of pity." You 
will not have occasion to pity any of the ladies who go 
fishing from the Bay, for they look so jaunty you would 
envy them and their enjoyment as well as fish. I have 
known Mrs. Madden and party to bring home thirty fish 
varying in size from a 3}^ black bass to a 7 pound 

pickerel. A friend writes from C Lake, telling 

how he spent a day fishing there, accompanied by three 



20 



ladies anil a lientlcinaii tr'u-inl. " W'ohumi never step 
into a hoal luMt\ \\\c\ always jump. Of (xnirse she slipvS, 
talis down, yells l\)r In^lp, nearly upsets the Innat. and 
is put to rii^hts hy tlu> mix^t t>liLiihh^ \oiun; man in the 
]>artv. Nothiui; will d(» tlu>n, but slie must row, and 
she knows as n\ui^h about lowiuij as a eow does about 
billiards. She handU^s her oars as if they were trees, 
splashes every one with water, and after half an hour's 
work slu^ is abiMtt ten feet away in \hv wrono ilireetion. 
when (H\v oi l\\v www takes the oats anil wi^ are soon at 
our OvShin^ii" plaee. She tries to bait her hook, and after 
ii'ettinji the hook into all Ium' lingers (in faet evtM-ywhere 
but ii\to the minnow), her friend baits her hook, ai\d she 
throws it out. The first time it eatehes onto one of the 
ladies' ears, the next throw, into the baek of the iientle- 
man's neek, and the third time into the eoat oi hvv 
friend, who quietlv euts it out (it is his best ec>at), and 
he gently puts the line into the water without saying a 
cuss word, and says he hopes she will eateh a whale. 
After a few n\oments of quiet all are informed she has 
a bite; she pulls it in steadily to ti.nd it is part of the 
careass of a dead horse. She is soon relieved of the 
burden and eatehes a small perch,. She is so delighted 
that she mUvSt let it flop into the faces of every one in 
the boat, tries for twenty minutes to take it otT the 
hook, but her th\gers are so sore she lets the job out to 
her maU^ companion. One of the other hulies has sat 
for two hours without n\oving" a muscle, while the other, 
I believe, would fish with a hair-pin baited with a piece 
of red tlannel hung to a skein of silk in a stationary 
wash-tub, and solen\nly declare when she got through 
that she had millions of bites." Hear lady readers, we 
havt^ no such experiences to relate at .Mexandria l»ay. 
lUv boats art^ the |n"ettiest, the fishermen the nicest, the 



fisli the l.ir^csl .ind hcsl, I lie ho.ilmon l):iil y<'iir hooks. 
'I'lic lioU'l Inniislics the lunch, .uhI you arc sure Io catcli 
fish. When (hey arc cooked and \'on cal your meal 
served upon an Island, an<l do nol say you have had Ihc 
niosl pleasant day ever spent lisliniL;, draw on ine for 
the halanci'. !'. !'.. 

A WORD TO MY PROFESSIONAL 
FRIENDS. 

While it may not he known to all who are fortunate 
enough to ohtain a copy ol my work aiul peruse the 
same, nevertheless it is a fact that about twenty years of 
my life I was engaged in what is commonly called the 
show business. 

in i''^.S''^, ' started in, in the employ of Mr. (leorge Lee 
of New N'ork City, now proprietor of I'ort Jarvis, N. Y., 
Opera House, in connection with jack liudson and 
Billy Jackson, who were considered at that time the 
best side show |)coplc in the business.- I then connected 
myself with b*'"' <iiallam as a glass blower in i860 
and 'Ol. My next stc|) was with the VVoodndl Ihos., 
later (leorge VVoodrull, the c.elebrated llohemian iroop 
of fancy glass blowers. La Kiie's C'arnival Minstrels, and 
lVl(^Kvoy's 1 !iberni('on, etc., etc. It would be a pleasure to 
go on and write a detail sketch of my career as a showman, 
but the old saying is, that lite is short and we have not 
long to live and we are certainly a long time dead. I 
will omit a biographi(\'d oullinc of my life until later ; I 
will say that it has been a |)leasure to me to meet my 
old associates and professional friends during my 17 
years on the St. I .awrencc, among which I am |)leased 
to mention Mr. Sol. Smith Ixiisscll, whom I lirsl met as 
far back as 1X^)7. Me was (|uite young at that time, but 
full of ambition and talent, and I have watched with a 



22 

great deal of interest his professional career. I have 
many a little anecdote which I could relate of his ability, 
tact and humor, but it is a question in my mind 
whether they would be of interest to my readers, and I 
know not whether Mr. R. would love to have them 
published. I will be brief and say, that had I been a 
wise man I would have accepted the position offered me 
to become his manager, which he proffered, I would 
have been worth a half million instead of Mr. Fred D. 
Burger, his present courteous and amiable manager who 
can draw his check for that amount. 1 do not envy them, 
am only glad to be classed with their *' Poor Relations." 
Ed Harrigan and his manager. Mart VV. Hanley, with 
their families, made the trip with me from Niagara Falls 
to Montreal, taking the steamer from Kingston through 
the Thousand Islands and Rapids of the St fvawrence 
to Montreal After watching Mr. Harrigan all day, and 
noticing how minutely he takes in all that surrounds him, 
and how for hours he was among the deck hands study- 
ing character, I am satisfied how easy it must be for him 
to write a play depicting the many, positions and scenes 
in every day life that he has himself passed through. Wm. 
R Hayden, Senator Crane, Yokes Family, Jno. P. Smith, 
W. S. Meysteer, Mr. and Mrs. Chas. McEvoy, Henry 
E. Abbey, John Schoeffel, Lafe Heidel, Frank B. Cilley, 
Charles B. Ghrist, Gus Williams, Tom Karl, the great 
Barnaby, P. T. Barnum, Buffalo Bill, Denman Thompson, 
Gus Pennoyer, Frank Edwards, Pierce Jarvis, John VV. 
Raiisone nnd wife, and enough others to more than half 
fill the soup tureen. 

YOU KNOW HER. 

She is one of the strong minded of the female sex, and 
generally has her own way m everything. x\t any rate, 



23 

she stands ready at any and all times to combat with 
any one of the lords of creation, or otherwise, who may 
dispute her sway. We prefer your imagination to fill in 
a description, because it would be next to. an impossi- 
bility for me to do so. She has all the requisites : the 
thin, tall figure, the hatchet face, sharp nose, wears 
glasses, and always carries an umbrella. About one 
each day will pass down this route in Summer, except 
when an Eastern or Western Excursion comes ; then it 
will be hard to select those who are not of her kind. 
The first object that strikes her eye is our manly figure. 
After looking it well over, she remembers that fat peo- 
ple are proverbially jolly and good natured, so she 
breaks into conversation, and about the first question 
she asks is : '' Were you always as large as you are 
now?" "Oh, yes ! I was born this size." The answer 
causes her to discover that she has left out the word 
"proportion." So she apologizes, smiles for the first 
time, and we are friends for the trip., 

WILL HE HAVE IT THERE? 

An English tourist registered at "The Crossmon,' 
Alexandria Bay, asked the clerk for a corner room up 
one flight, on shady side, a special hall boy, meals 
served in room, a bath, and candle instead of gas, steam 
heat and — "Hold on !" said the clerk ; " I think you 
have made a mistake ; this is not heaven." 

LORD H. U. MERRIAM 

was a visitor at Alexandria Bay last season, and while 
he remained put up, from choice, at the Marsden House, 
Alexandria Bay. We were very intimate and social 
during his stay, and I inferred he came where I take 
my meals to see if he could get as fat as I am. 



24 

WHAT I KNOW ABOUT ELI PERKINS. 

Some few years ago Mr. Perkins was a passenger on 
one of the boats. I do not know whether he took me 
for the captain, director or manager of the line, or not, 
but he exerted himself considerably to form my 
acquaintance. There was nothing unusual about that, 
however, as there is something "''distingue'" about me, 
and when on the boat I stand considerably " above 
proof." I have frequently dined at the same table with 
the Governor-General, Lord Dufferin, and retinue — after 
his lordship had left. But to return to Eli. The day 
in question I was upon the boat, as usual, describing the 
points of interest, especially the one on the Canadian 
shore, where the St. Regis Indians come year after year 
to gather the famous elm and basswood with which to 
make their celebrated baskets. I was delineating at 
some length upon the noble red man, when Eli came to 
me and said, " I will write you a verse of poetry about 
that." Glad to get a memento in that shape from so 
distinguished an individual, who had so often been 
accused of being witty, I said it would please me very 
much. Here is the verse : 

"Once here the noble red man took his delights, 
Fit, fished and bled ; 
Now most of the inhabitants are white, 
With nary a red." 

I thanked him very profusely, and on subsequent 
occasions took great delight in repeating the lines to the 
passengers, never forgetting for a rrioment to remind 
them that they were written for me by the alleged 
American humorist. One day, after delivering myself 
of the poetry and repeating to the passengers that it 
was written by the celebrated poet, writer, humorist 
and lecturer, Eli Perkins, I was approached by an 



25 

exceedingly polite and affable gentleman, whom I 
learned was Mr. John H. Rochester, of Rochester, 
N. Y., who asked me if he understood me correctly in 
attributing the authorship of the lines quoted to Mr. 
Perkins. I assured him that he had written them 
expressly for me, and produced in Eli's own hand- 
writing the original copy. With a subdued smile rest- 
ing upon his countenance, Mr. Rochester informed me 
that there must be an error somewhere, as a gentleman, 
a Mr. Fletcher, had written a poem in 1834, in which 
the exact verse occurred, and he proceeded to repeat 
the verse from memory. This took me slightly back? 
and I subsequently came to the conclusion, with " my 
friend " of the Oil City Derrick^ that a cabbage leaf was 
never more at home than when in the crown of " Uli 
Perkins' hat." After that I had no more use for the 
poem, but determined if I ever met '' Uli " I should call 
to his mind the circumstances connected with "his little 
poem." I had not long to wait, for one day, while in 
Evansville, Ind., at the St. George Hotel, I met the gen- 
tleman, and recalled the circumstances connected with 
the little verse, and he, with a perfect air of nonchalance^ 
said that he had never given it a thought since — 
dashed it off in a minute. I told him how remarkable 
it was that great minds often run in the same channel, 
and related my experience with his gem. He scowled, 
and, turning on his heel, said it was indeed a singular 
word-for-word resemblance, but changed the subject 
at once, and asked me to his room on the following 
morning, which invitation I cheerfully accepted, dot- 
ing all the evening upon having a nice time, and 
swapping a few gags, etc., etc.; but my hopes were 
blighted, for the next morning I was informed of his 
very early departure — gone up to lie to the people 



26 

of Rockport, I was told. *' Uli " is a great man and 
contracts a larger amount of business upon a very 
small amormt of capital than any public character I 
know of. When Eli reads this I expect he will load 
his big gun-— not intellectual, but otherwise — and 
come for me. 1 will therefore give him a pointer in 
advance ; there won't anything scare me but a stomach 
pump. 

ALEXANDRIA BAY AS A MECCA FOR 

ALL PERSONS AFFLICTED WITH 

ASTHMA OR HAY FEVER. 

The effect produced almost instantly upon those 
troubled with these diseases is simply marvelous, to 
sa^ the least. You would hardly credit the assertions 
if 1 should make them. ' Permit me, as an illustration, 
to cite one instance which I deem remarkable. Dr. 
Buckley, one of Rochester's noted physicians, was so 
low in August last that he had to be taken on a bed 
from his home to the Rome, Watertown c^ Ogdens- 
burg railroad and placed upon the cars. He arrived 
at Alexandria Bay that evening. The next morning 
I met him walking on the dock smoking a cigar, feel- 
ing as happy as he ever felt in his life. 

The daughter of an editor of a Rochester paper 
also came here to avoid asthma and remained six 
weeks. She never had the le st show or sign of the 
disease while at Alexandria Bay but took ah excur- 
sion one day over to Canada and was not on the land 
more than an hour when she was forced to return or 
suffer an attack of hay fever. 

H. R. CLARK, of New York. 

This little volume would not be complete if it did 
not mention his name, not onlv in connection with 



27 

the fisliino- at Alexandria Way, hut llu' facts of his 
lia\ini^ oivcn more time and money towards stoppin*;- 
illegal ilshin^- than all the owners of cottajj^es and 
islands combined. He was elected an honorable 
member of the Canadian iMsheries ('ommission, and 
was the prime mover in fonninj^- the Anjji'lers' Asso- 
ciation of the 'I'honsand Islands, and personally 
captured more nets than all others interested. He is 
the most enthusiastic, as well as the l^est posted 
gentleman tluit comes to the Islands to fish, and 
knows more about the hal)its and nature of the finn)' 
tribe than any other parfy who comes here to fish. lie 
won tlie j^old medal given for the largest and best 
catch of hsh for the season of 1885. His standing; 
offer to catch ten |)()unds of fish in a given hour, in 
any day, from the St. Lawrence River, during the 
season, or give ten dollars to any charitable institu- 
tion, 1 may mention, if he fails. Here is one of his 
catches on an eight-ounce rod, a single leader, a "(1 
line, a fish weighing seventy-eight pounds, girt 
measuie twenty-nine inches, length sixty-three inches, 
time in landing one hour and i'wc minutes. beat this 
and 1 will tell you more. 

Hon. A. CORNWALL, of Alexandria Bay. 

Cornwall cV' Walton were the original purchasers 
of the 'i'housand islands, in the American channel of 
the river, from the governiuent Mr. A. Cornwall is 
the surviver of the firm and therefore the father of 
them, and I- call him Pa. If you desire any informa- 
tion not in this volume, call on him at the old stone 
stores of Cornwall Brothers, and he will give it to 
you cheerfully. He is an Encyclopedia of facts on 
the St. Lawrence or the Thousand Islands. 



28 

WHAT AND WHO MADE ALEXANDRIA 

BAY. 

In I $7 2 President I'. S. Grant visited this delightful 
spot, a guest of Geo. M. Pullman, of palace car fame, 
Pullman Island. There was at that time inadequate 
hotel accommodations, for the tourist as well as the 
visitor who had been drawn to this, the most beautiful* 
natural scenery in the world. JNIessrs. Cornwall and 
Walton, of Alexandria Bay, with their usual display 
of sense and sagacity, as well as business tact, for 
which they have always been commended, offered to 
give the best site on the St. Lawrence to any man 
who would erect upon it a first-class summer hotel. 
Mr. O. G. Staples, of Watertown, N. Y., hearing of 
this offer came, he saw, and how he conquered you 
shall know as we proceed with our narrative. Well, 
he concluded to father the scheme. Securing a man 
with money, a Mr. Nott, of Syracuse, the ground, or 
rock rather, was broken January 14th, 1S73, and the 
Thousand Island House was completed and opened 
July 17th, 1873, just six months from the day of 
starting. Rumor says that although their money gave 
out a little above the first story. Staples' indomitable 
will saw it completed and furnished, ready to receive 
guests, just as soon and as well as if he had been a 
millionaire. During the next two years of the part- 
nership of Staples and Xott, everything did not go 
as smooth as a marriage bell, but still they went, and 
in the end Staples had the money and hotel. (I hope 
the reader, if he knows Staples, will not be so unkind 
as to accuse him of parting with all his experience 
and make the pun that he took the money and Xott 
the experience). Staples bought out Xott, and, I 



29 

believe, paid him what was agreed, and he run the 
hotel until April 15th, 1883, when Mr. R. A. South- 
gate (the man of many hotels, too numerous to 
mention here) bought him out. The many changes 
that have been made, and those contemplated, when 
completed, will make this the Mecca of summer 
resort watering places, the Venice of America. I 
desire to say right here that I hope Mr. Southgate 
w411 not lose sight of what has in the past made the 
Bay popular as a resort. I like to see the standard 
of visitors raised as well as the prices. 1 would like 
it to be the place for fish as well as those who love 
the piscatorial art. No dust, no dampness, no malaria 
or hay fever, no mosquitoes ; light, dry air, cool and 
bracing. Thermometer never over 80 or below 50 in 
July or August, and one can enjoy what is denied 
them almost everywhere else, a good nine hours of 
cool refreshing sleep under a blanket. Those 
troubled with pulmonary complaints will find great 
relief here. Steamers, steam yachts and sailing ves- 
sels abound, everything to animate the scene and 
enhance the pleasure of visitors is done. Fishing, 
fishing boats, bathing, etc., as well as fish abound, 
and we say here, if you have never been to the Bay, 
come. 

MY VISIT TO THE STATE FISH 

HATCHERY AT MUMFORD, 

NEW YORK. 

Mr. Monroe A. Green, the superintendent of the State 
Fish Hatchery, gave me a very kind invitation to visit 
him and the State Hatchery, at the opening of the 
season, April ist, which invitation I accepted, and 



30 

which event will always remain Green in my memory for 
it was indeed a glorious trip. Mr. Lapey, the Assistant 
General Passenger Agent of the Buffalo, Rochester 
(S: Pittsburgh Railway issued transportation for myself 
and stenographer over his road from Rochester to 
Mumford and return. While on my way to the depot 
on the morning of my departure, I was greeted by a 
friend who inquired as to where I was going so earl)^ 
in the morning. I informed him that I was about to 
visit the fi-h hatchery at Mumford. He then, with 
premeditation and malice aforethought, asked me if 
I was going to spawn. I replied, " No, but to see them 
manufacture fish." Arriving at the depot at 7 o'clock 
and 30 minutes we boarded the train and started. A 
friend invited me to sit in the 'smoker, but as I had just 
received my morning rations, and knowing that the 
fumes of the smoking car would have the tendency to 
force me to relinquish my grip on that me;\l. I declined 
his invitation and seated myself in the ladies' car. 
Arriving at Mumford we were met by a messenger 
and (h-iven to the celebrated hatchery. Upon entering 
the main building we were received by Superintendent 
Green and his son Frank. We also met the following 
gentlemen who were on hand to try their luck in 
capturing the finny tribe : Mr. Wm. S. Kimball, Dr. 
Hurd, Mr. Samuel Wilder, Mr. C. C. Morse, Mr. 
Thomas Harris of Rochester, nnd Mr. R. S. Coleman, 
of Sandy Hill, Washington Co., N. Y. The above 
named gentlemen were equipped with the necessary 
credentials and started out, Mr. Wilder was the 
champion of the day's fishing, having caught at least 
fifty good sized speckled trout. But if his friend 
"Bowman" had been there he would have doubled 



the number. Myself and stenographer remained at 
the large hatchery to receive information regarding 
the manufacture of fish. Superintendent Green 
has been interested in fish hatching 23 years and 
has the last few years hatched ten million fry 
per year, which are sent 10 nearly every county in the 
state Ninety-five per cent, of the fish that are hatched 
under his supervision live The largest number of 
fish are hatched during the months of November 
and December. The Salmon Trout seem to be in the 
gr atest demand, although German I'roul are becoming 
very popular. Mr. Green has raised six hundred 
thousand German Trout since rece ving forty thousand 
eggs six yea'S ago. There are five districts in the 
state all supplied from the Mumford hatchery. It 
requires from two hundred to two hundred and fifty 
pounds of hashed liver to feed the fish daily. While 
we were receiving the above information a large gong 
sounded, which denoted the fact that Assistant 
Walzer had prepared a fine spread in an adjoining 
building. Seating ourselves at the table the fleshy 
man was requested to ask a blessing. He replied that 
the best he could do would be to recite the du^'e's 
blessing, which he did (a copy of which will be mailed 
to any one on receipt of a two cent stamp) and the party 
with a good will as well as a good appetite, did the 
subje( t ample justice. The next excitement was the 
catching of a two pound Califoinia Trout by the tail, 
and landing the same in 26 minutes, which act was 
accomplished by the short hand man with an 8 oz. rod. 
Thermometer, 4 degrees below freezo ; pulse, 115 ; eye- 
sight good. 



THE LARGE GATHERINGS. 

Round Island Park, Thousand Island Park and 
Alexandria Bay have, at different times, been honored 
by conventions, meetings of associations in conven- 
tion, pilgrimages, etc., a minute description of which 
would fill a volume ten times the size of this one, so I 
can only mention what is uppermost in my mind, the 
Press Association of Vermont, under the guidance of 
S. W. Cummings, Esq., the general passenger agent of 
the Central Vermont Railroad. He and his associate, 
Mr. T. H. Hanley, made for them an ever to be remem- 
bered excursion trip. The Librarians of America stayed 
in the midst of the Thousand Islands three or four days. 
They were, without exaggeration, the most refined and 
educated body of men and women that I ever met. The 
Brooklyn Tabernacle, with its thousand pilgrims, were 
also delighted with everything they saw at the Thousand 
Islands, and were profuse in their expressions of its 
scenic beauty. I met the Rev. Dr. Talmage and had a 
personal interview. I don't wonder now that his mag- 
netism holds such sway with his Brooklyn audience, 
and that the whole world receives so cheerfully through 
the telegraph his sermons. 

THEY DO IT EVERY TIME. 

When the average American's postage stamp does 
not stick he storms around and makes the air fairly 
blue until he secures the mucilage bottle and fixes the 
stamp to his letter. Not so with the average Canadian. 
He procures a needle and thread, sits quietly down and 
sews the darned thing on. 



33 

THE HUMORISTS OF AMERICA. 

Most of these jovial, good-natured souls have, at 
some time or other, paid the Thousand Islands and the 
St. Lawrence River a visit, but it would be useless for 
me to try and remember each and every one of them, or 
their peculiarities. I cheerfully remember Mark Twain 
(Samuel L. Clemens, Esq.,) and' one of the funniest 
stories I tell was of an evening spent at Toronto, while 
a giiest of a friend, and the little speech that he made 
introducing Senator Hawley, who was to make a politi- 
cal address at Elmira, N. Y. He was a passenger down 
the river. After naming over several towns and streets 
in the Province of Quebec, he remarked : " Are they 
all saints here ; no sinners ? " 

SALISBURY, 

of the Fall River Advance^ going down the St. Lawrence, 
as a passenger, and his written description of the trip, 
is the most humorous that I have ha'd the pleasure of 
perusing. ''Bob'' Burdette's, of the Burlington Hawkeye, 
description of the Victoria Bridge is very funny. Knox^ 
of the Texas Si/lings, went down on the opposition line, 
so did not have a chance to meet him. Eli Perkins you 
cheerfully remember, and I have given a very definite 
description of an interview, in another part of this work. 

REPRESENTATIVE MEN 

of New York, New Orleans, Rochester, Buffalo, Pitts- 
burgh, Cleveland and Chicago, respectively, who occupy 
cottages, etc., at the Thousand Islands during the 
summer, should be mentioned here, but space alone 
prevents. This little volume is published expressly for 
Tourists who travel, and if it becomes large, burden- 
some or cumbersome, it is useless for what it is designed, 



34 

as a descriptive book of the St. Lawrence River. I 
therefore cannot lose sight of this fact, and must con- 
tent m3^self with publishing a book that will contain 
about 1 80 or 200 pages. 

H. H. Warner, of Rochester, N. Y. ; George M. 
Pullman, Chicago ; N. H. Hunt, of Brooklyn, N. Y.; 
Royal H. Pullman, " Baltimore, Md ; C. B. Marsh, 
Chicago, 111.; Judge Donahue, New York; Rev. W. 
Dempster Chase, New York; H. C. Wilber, Pres. Lehigh 
Valley R.R.; Rev. Dr. Saxe, Rochester, N. Y.; Fred 
W. Hawley, Rochester, N. Y.; C. H. and W. B. Hayden, 
of Columbus, O.; Judge Spencer, New York ; W. J. 
Lewis, H. A. Laughlin, G. T. Rafferty, J. S. Laney, of 
Pittsburgh ; J. C. Covert, Ex-Mayor Rose and Mr. J. M, 
Curtis, of Cleveland, Ohio; Judge La Batte, N. O.; C. J. 
Hudson, of New York ; Judge Thomas Troy, of Brook- 
lyn ; Hon. R. A. Livingston, N Y.; M. B. Bettman, of 
New York ; John Lowery, of New York; E. & T-. H. 
Anthony, Mr. J. W.'White, of White Plains ; H. R. Clark 
and family, of Jersey City ; Royal E. Deane, of New 
York; last but not least, my solid friend, Col. T. G. 
Carnes, of Gains.ville, Texas, a man after my own heart, 
nda weight as well. He says he enjoys himself more at 
Alexandria Bay, and can keep his three hundred and ten 
pounds cooler, than at any other resort in America, and 
when you are about to select a summer home think of 
me and my three hundred and thirty-three pounds, and 
after passing seventeen years on the St. Lawrence I 
have not seen over two. days in any summer that would 
cause me, through heat, to wilt my shirt collar, which 
is the best test the heat or perspirat-ion can have upon 
a fat man. Think of this, and when you want a cool 
place come to our island home. 



35 

THE PEOPLE WE MEET AT THE 
THOUSAND ISLANDS. 

Visitors going to the Thousand Islands will strike 
the river either at Kingston, Cape Vincent, Gan- 
anoqua or Clayton. The first of the summer resorts 
after leaving Clayton is Round Island, which is occupied 
by the Baptists. The Hotel has been enlarged, refitted 
and refurnished during the past winter and the name 
changed to Hotel Frontenac, under the management of 
Mr. Almy, of New York, a hotel man of note and ability, 
but the denominational sectarian barriers have been 
removed the same as at each of the other resorts, and 
all Christians, of whatever sect, or no sect, are welcome. 
Even the dude can revel in his peculiarity. The next 
point is Grennell's Island Park, where is located a very 
nice hotel and a number of fine cottages. Beyond is 
Thousand Island Park. This is occupied by the Metho- 
dists, and they welcome everyone, except on Sundays, 
when no persons are allowed to land on the island. 

The Fine View House, Central Park, and Edgewood 
Park have no religious proclivities known to me, but 
'' Solomon Isaacs " would not be admitted at Edgewood 
Park unless he would swear that he was a " Quaker." 

Westminster Park was founded by the Presbyterians, 
and is occupied by them and their friends. Summerland 
by the Universalists and their friends. 

Alexandria Bay is cosmopolitan, where everybody is 
welcome and can stay as long as they behave themselves 
and pay their board. 

Now, dear reader, imagine the Baptists, Methodists, 
Presbyterians, Universalists and all their friends com- 
bined, and now if you want a summer of pleasure with- 



36 

out any baneful influences, you wouldn't miss it in 
securing- the Thousand Islands for your summer home, 
where there are no bad people whatever, such as drunk- 
ards, loafers, tramps, people of bad repute, male or 
female, and if they should drift in they would receive a 
cool reception among- the people of the Thousand 
Islands. It would not require a Pinkerton or any other 
detective to select from among those Christian people 
or their friends anv bad character, but they come, never- 
theless, though their stay is short. 

CREDIT TO WHOM CREDIT IS DUE. 

While we have spoken very pleasantly of the episode 
of H. H. A\'arner and George M. Pullman ; of their 
returning to their respective islands and expending 
nearly a half a million dollars in beautifying them, after 
wandering from one end of the world almost to the 
other in search of comfort, proving conclusively that we 
have the finest watering place in America or we -could 
not retain such men as these, I must say a few words in 
justice to those who remained with us during their 
absence ; who bore the burden and heat of the day and 
lavishly spent their money in litting up their islands to 
make the Thousand Islands what they now are. Among 
those people I will mention A. B. Pullman, C. B. Marsh, 
N. H. Hunt of Brooklyn, N. Y., H. R. Heath, Royal E. 
Dean, E. W. Dewey, C. H. and W. B. Hayden, J. H. 
Oliphant, A. C. Beckwith, A. E. Clark, H. A. Laughlin, 
C. E. Hill, Hon. W. G. Rose, J. M. Curtis and a host of 
others. 

THE WHY NOT! 

I am asked almost every day why the Canadians do 
not occupy the islands in their channel of the river the 



37 

same as the Americans do. The only answer I can give 
is, that the American comes here to rough it, fish and 
enjoy himself during the summer vacation, and the 
Canadians have it rough enough the year round, so do 
not have to come. 

A FEW QUESTIONS THAT I WOULD 
LIKE TO ASK. 

What is invisible blue ? A policeman. 

What is the most deceiving age ? The saus-age. 

What ship carries the most passengers? Court-ship. 

What smells most in a chemist's shop ? The nose. 

What word does your wife like best.? The last one. 

Why is a horse the most curious feeder in the world ? 
He eats best without a bit in his mouth. 

What is the difference between one yard and two 
yards ? A fence. 

Why is your nose in the middle of your face ? It is 
the scenter. 

What is the latest thing in dresses ? Night dresses. 

When is a girl not a girl ? When she is a little 
sulky. 

Why is a hen immortal ? Because her son never sets. 

Why do chimneys always smoke ? Because they 
cannot chew. 

What is the greatest surgical operation on record ? 
Lansing, Mich. 

What was the largest contract ? Macon, Georgia. 

What was ihe largest load ? Wheeling, West Virginia. 

When is a ship most happy? When she rests on 
the bosom of a swell. So is my Mary Jane ! 

Why do hens always lay eggs in the .day time ? At 
night they are roosters. 



38 

How can a pig build himself a pen ? Tie a knot in 
his tail and call it a pigs-tie. 

Why are hens always w^orth feeding ? Because for 
every grain they give a peck. 

If 32° is the freezing point, where is the squeezing 
point ? Two in the shade. 

Where is the best place to hold the World's Fair ? 
Around the waist. 

If an oyster can climb a tree, and a poll Parrot teach 
a black bird to talk French, how many shoe strings 
will it take to fatten a lamp post ? 

BOYS ON A STEAMER. 

Here is a genuine. His parents are with him ; he 
cannot keep still ; he wants chiefly to break his neck or 
fall overboard, or to get crushed by the walking-beam ; 
he has been twice dragged from the steps leading to the 
walking-beam used by the assistant engineer for lubri- 
cating purposes ; he would like to get in the paddle 
boxes, has talked every officer on board to death, and is 
now trying his best to worry the deck hands. How 
curiously constructed is a real boy, to go whither he 
should not, and especially where his anxious mother 
most fears he will go ; he is now doing his best 
to spoil his parents' trip. We can leave him for a 
moment ; he won't flag in his endeavor to get into 
trouble or to make his parents miserable. 

This is a smaller boy — not yet out of his petticoats, 
but very active ; he, too, has with him an anxious 
mother ; he has found another boy — a strange boy, of 
the same size and sex ; they have become acquainted ; 
the strange boy is allowed by his parents to roam 
about the boat at will ; he invites the nice little bov to 



39 

roam also ; he wants him to roam as near the walking- 
beam as possible ; he has roamed there before himself 
and escaped ; he tells the nice little boy how cunning 
it is to come near being crushed ; the nice little boy's 
mother forbids any roaming at all ; she looks with 
disfavor on the strange boy; but the 'strange boy 
continues to hang around ; he knows, so does the 
nice boy, together they can fool any one mother ; 
united they stand, divided they fall ; now the nice 
boy edges away from the side of his mother, for her 
energies are momentarily concentrated on the set of 
her bonnet and the nice looking gentleman at the other 
end of the saloon, who is taking side glances at her 
through the mirror. Now the nice boy gets farther 
away ; they are on the forbidden part of the deck near 
the walking beam. It is great fun. Now the cross 
man who keeps order on the deck drives them away. 
They go to the news agent's stand and help themselves 
to anything on the table when he is, not looking. They 
are now running in and out the state rooms, where the 
passengers have gone to take a little rest, getting in 
everybody's way ; it is a wonder they haven't been 
killed twenty times. It is great fun for the boys, but 
almost death to the passengers. And the mother is 
still so occupied with her bonnet and the dude who has 
made a mash or favorable impression upon her that she 
has not missed her nice little boy. 

SIR JOHN A. Mcdonald, 

who is Canada's prime minister, has been a passenger 
upon the boats, two and three times during each season, 
until his face became a very familiar one to me, and I 
must say that it is as jolly looking as my own, and 



40 

about as expressive ; while his is a Roman nose, mine 
is a pug. I remember his first trip down, after. his 
election to the premiership, and my saying to him : 
" Now we have a change in politics and in government, 
I shall expect, of course, a position under the new 
government." Sir John A. remarked : "Yes, you shall 
have it. I shall make a change. We will have the 
rivers run the other way so you 'can be utilized day and 
night to make it pleasant for the people without extra 
pay or allowance." When giving my description of 
Barnhart's Island and the Canadian Channel passing 
around, the settlement of the treaty of 1812, and the 
ratification of the same by Lord Ashburton and Daniel 
Webster, he asked me if those were facts and I said, 
" Yes, and I am astonished to think that you would 
have to ask me about such an important point and 
treaty." When nearing Montreal I had finished giving 
a description of places and points of interest, and had 
described Bonsecours market when he told me that an 
Irish friend of his pronounced it different, he called it 
" Bone Scowered market." 

A WORD IN FAVOR OF THE CROSSMON 

HOUSE. 

We now come to that which provides sweet and invig- 
orating rest after the varied river sports, country drives 
and sociabilities. We mean The Crossmon. The old 
hotel, under the same management as the new. It has 
been the stopping place for visitors to the islands for 
more than a quarter of a century, and acquired during 
that time a reputation of which any hotel with similar 
facilities might be proud. The new, many-towered 
Crossmon consists of a five-story building, covering 



41 

exactly the site of the old hotel of pleasant memories. 
It is a picturesque structure, surrounded by wide veran- 
das and traversed by spacious halls. 

THE SITUATION AND OUTLOOK. 

It is most charmingly situated, close to the river on 
the north and the little gem of a bay from which the 
village takes its name on the east, thus having two 7vater 
sides. Its windows, verandas and towers afford exten- 
sive views of the river and islands in three directions. 
Most of the prominent islands and cottages may be seen 
from it, together with miles and miles of the sweeping, 
bounding, gleaming river. The hotel has in reality two 
fronts, (with their entrances,) the one being toward the 
river, where boat passengers enter, and the other on the 
main village street, where carriages are the mode of 
conveyance. 

PRINCIPAL ADVANTAGES OF THE CROSSMON. 

The office, wine room., billiard room and barber shop, 
being on the street front of the hotel, are entirely 
removed from the water front, where the verandas are, 
and where the guests like to assemble for games and 
promenading. An elevator runs from the basement to 
the top ot the building, and the broad stairways, in both 
main building and wing, afford quick means of egress 
in case of fire. 

The hotel is lighted throughout with gas, and supplied 
with pure river water, which is forced by a steam engine 
into an enormous copper tank on the roof, and conveyed 
from there to the various floors by means of galvanized 
iron pipes, thus doing away with all danger of lead poison- 
ing and other impurities. On every floor are water- 



42 

closets and bath-rooms with hot and cold water. Elec- 
trical bells and speaking tubes connect the office with 
every part of the building. It will accommodate three 
hundred guests, and is adapted to satisfy those who are 
accustomed to luxurious homes. 

WHAT I TOOK HEED OF. 

Having been away from my native city, Rochester, 
for at least a year and a half, crossing the continent 
from the rock bound coast of Maine to the jumping off 
place in Florida, visiting nearly every city in .this coun- 
try, when I returned home I met my venerable pastor 
and beloved friend, the Rev. T)r. J. B Shaw. 

This gentleman always took a great deal of interest, 
in my personal welfare and would warmly shake me 
by the hand whenever we would meet. He would 
interrogate me as to my prosperity and adversity. On 
this particular occasion he asked me where I had been, 
and after answering his questions to his entire satisfac- 
tion he noticed prominent upon my expansive shirt front 
my pin. After looking at it a moment he said, " Mr. 
Babbage, is that a diamond ?" 1 replied in the affirma- 
tive. He remarked, "of the first water ? " I replied, 
"yes, boiled in oil." He said, "that must represent a 
small house and lot." I said, "yes, sir, very nearly." 
He said, " why don't you sell that and give the money 
to the poor ? " In answer I remarked, " while I wear it 
at your suggestion, I may part with it if you desire to 
have me." He said, "did I ever tell you to wear a dia- 
mond ? " " No, not exactly ; but in a sermon you 
preached one Sunday you remarked that some of your 
friends had bright spots about them, others had none ; 
some, the only one you could discover was a 



43 

diamond they wore in their shirt front, so I went 
home and looked myself over in vain to find that 
bright " spot, so I purchased this one. Does it 
fit me?" Laughingly he said, "do you treasure up 
everything that I say as faithfully as you did this ? " I 
replied that I hoped that I did. He asked me if I was 
going to publish a copy of my book this year I told 
him that I was about to issue another edition and that 
r had a copy of last year's book with me. I asked him 
if he would kindly accept a copy and read it, and to 
give me his opinion of it the next time I met him. He 
replied that he would. In about three weeks I met him 
and asked for his opinion. He smiled and remarked 
that it was a very, very funny book. 

"GOING THAT WAY." 

Captain Sinclair, of the Steamer " Passport," was in 
a fog early one morning . just before leavmg' King- 
ston and one of the passengers remarked to him that 
it was clear above, to which the captain answered, 
"Yes, but unless we have a blow-up we will not go 
that way." 

A GOOD ONE ON CAPTAIN ESTES. 

Everyone familiar with the St. Lawrence River will 
surely recognize the name of Estes, as it is one that 
has been connected with the River for the past forty 
years. Some one of the Utica, N. Y., daily papers 
mentioned Captain Estes of the Steamer " St. Law- 
rence" as a man extremely polite and scrupulously 
neat in his dress, and very attentive to those who are 
passengers on his boat ; a man who does not chew, 



44 

smoke or drink, nor tell fish stories. An old gentle- 
man, accompanied by his wife and daughter, having 
heard of the captain's reputation, remarked that he 
would like to introduce him to his daughter. The. 
gallant captain, who looks very young for his age, 
answered, " No, thanks, I am a married man." 

THE PHARMACEUTICAL ASSOCIATION 

of the State of New York held their annual conven- 
tion at the Thousand Islands two years ago, and when 
they made their excursion on the " Island Wanderer " 
around the islands I accompanied them and delineated 
the points of interest on the trip. Just before arriving 
at Central Park they noticed the large twelve-foot 
letters " C. P." which are used for illuminating posts 
at night, there being hung upon the letters one 
hundred lanterns. Some one asked what the"C.P." 
stood for. I answered, "Central Park," when erne of 
the members, the president's wife, I think, answered 
"C. P. means chemically pure. I never knew it 
to mean anything else but that."" This biographical 
incident is intended for druggists only. 

APING CUSTOMS, MANNERS, ETC., OF 
THE ENGLISH. 

This is done to a great extent, not only in Canada, 
but I am sorry to say in Free America, better known 
as the U. S. I cannot find any fault with the average 
Canadian, who is, as it were, governed by Queen 
Victoria, and must have some reverence for royalty, 
in the aping of their manners and customs, but in 
this land, where we have an abundance of Queens, 



45 

Princes, Lords and Sovereigns who are not flattered 
by titles, but bear their honors meekly, all are royal 
born and bred. Speaking of titles reminds me that 
at home I am plain Edward F. Babbage, or "Phat 
Boy " (I spell it with " Ph " because it does not sound 
so greasy), but the moment I leave home, say for a 
trip through the South, I am called Captain for the 
first few hundred miles, then a little way on it 
becomes Colonel, and when I get to Georgia it is 
Major ; in South Carolina it is Judge or General, 
until I get to Florida, and I have heard them say 
there, "Great God, is that you?" But we diverge. 
Returning to the aping of the manners of Princess 
Louise, I wish to say right here that I firmly believe 
that it did the Canadian people a great amount of good, 
but fail to see where the people of the United States 
could be benefited. I was told that at Kingston the 
Princess asked for her strawberries in a box with the 
hulls on, and when placed before he'r she took them up 
by the stem between the thumb and finger and bit the 
berry off and placed the hull on the plate. Now every- 
body does the same ; previous to her visit they used to 
hull and wash them before placing them on the table. 
The same with grapes. They used to wash them in a 
goblet of water at the table before eating them ; now 
they take the grape between the thumb and finger, press 
it to the lips and squeeze gently, and Juice as well as 
insides are soon on the way to digestion, and the skin 
laid away on the plate as the Princess did. Asparagus — 
it is almost painful for me to see Canadians eat in as 
many ways as there were people at the table, in fact, no 
two ate it alike until after the Princess came ; now 
everybody takes it by the hard green end, between 



46 

thumb and finger, and putting it into the mouth, close 
the teeth down upon it and draw it gently from the 
mouth, leaving all that is digestible within, and the 
remainder is laid on the plate. The Princess once took 
a walk through her kitchen at Rideau Hall, Ottawa, took 
the vegetable cook to task for washing fresh picked 
peas from the vine that had just been shelled, saying 
it was nonsense, if your hands are clean, to wash a 
virgin pea. 

"WE ARE SEVEN." 

And they were in fact, as well as every other way, 
seven of the finest gentlemen I ever met. They passed 
down the St. Lawrence River its full length, from 
Kingston to the Gulf, bent on sight-seeing and pleasure, 
and when you read over the names you will know that 
each received his full share : John H. Rochester, 
Charles E. Fitch, George H. Humphrey, D. M. Dewey, 
William F. Peck, Charles P. Boswell, Alexander 
Thompson. 

WE CALL THEM TRAMPS. 

During the Centennial year many foreigners were 
always found among the list of passengers from every 
country. The proverbial English tourist cannot be 
mistaken by any, but this year, 1876, we had many who 
wxre too green or unsophisticated to be in that class. 
Now this truthful occurrence which I am about to relate 
is original and occurred upon one of the Richelieu & 
Ontario Navigation Company's line of boats. The 
Englishman was relating to his newly found friend his 
opinion of the United States, etc., in his own peculiar 
style. " Hi don't like this blarsted country, you know!" 



47 

"Why," said his friend, "what fault can you find with 
America?" " Oh, Hi've been all over it, you know, and 
can't find any sawciety there." "Society," said his 
friend, "what do you mean by society?" "Oh, dear 
me, you have no gentlemen or gentlemen's sons in 
h'America." " Why, what do you mean by gentlemen 
and gentlemen's sons ?" " Oh ! Hi mean gentlemen who 
never did any work, you know, nor their sons, either." 
" You make a mistake there, my worthy friend, we have 
millions of them here, but we call them tramps, and I 
have often thought it the best definition to a tramp 1 
ever heard, for if there are gentlemen and their sons 
here who never did any work they will soon make good 
timber for tramps, if they are not already." 

'NOT A GEORGE WASH." 

He had told several very improbable stories bor- 
dering on the Eli Perkins order, and then remarked 
to a friend that he could not tell a lie. But the friend 
replied that he could the moment he heard it, and to 
the best of his judgment he had told several. 

ROUTE OF THE STEAMER "ISLAND 
WANDERER." 

The dock from which the " Island Wanderer " leaves 
for her daily excursions around the Islands, morning 
at 8, afternoons at 2.15, is in front of Cornwall 
Brothers' Stone Store, where tickets and all informa- 
tion may be had relative to any route by either rail or 
boat, to any part of the globe. Taking your position 
upon any part of the boat that will allow you to face 
the bow, upon your right will be Hart's Island, 



48 

WestiniiiskM- l*ark OoiMv ami l*'rcii;ht House, which is 
hH'alcil at the h)\ver ciul ol" Wells' Islaiul — this islaiul 
ten miles loiii^ by four wide. A little above, hid by 
a I'histiM' ol tiees, is the residenee ol John Winslow, 
next is Impt-rial isle, owned by Cl. 'i\ RalTerty, 
Chiea.m), 111. I'he next is lanlithoDw, owned by 
lion. I\. A. I ,ivim;ston. New \ Drk. I'he next cottage 
on bliill is owned by Miss Lucv j, Hullock — 
tlu^ cottage a little above is owneil bv Prof. A. 
(1. Hopkins. Next is I'loient-e Island. Near 
the water edge is the boat house of St. Elmo, and 
the conspicuous slate-cn>lore(,l cottage above ami 
wind nnll below, is owned h\ Mr. N. 11. Hunt, of 
nrot)klvn, N. \'. It is presumed you have taken in 
the above panorama before starting. immeiliately 
after starting, on the left, \"ou pass the Thousand 
Island Mouse and bittle Staples Island — around the 
point is (Mler C'leek, lulgewood Park ami Martin's 
C'otl.ige. The iulgcwocul Park Company have erected 
an elegant hotel and several cottages are being built 
bv \.\\c mendiers o\ the company, who form a sort of 
social i-lub foi- thcii- families and friends, care being 
exercised in the selection o\ nuMubrrs as well as 
visitors, and it the pi'oject is carried out, as it is con- 
templated, this lulgewood Park will be the summer 
home o\ some o\' the best peo[)le in .\merica. (^n 
the light is iM-iiMully Ishind, containing cottage, boat 
house and lookout, owiuhI by K. W . Pewey, o( New 
\'ork. Next above is Nobby Island, ownetl by H. R. 
Heath, o\ New \"ork. Opposite, on the left, is C'herry 
Isl.uul (the reason they call it " Clierry " is because 
they raise their own strawberries from which they 
make their celebrated custard pies). The Island con- 



49 

tains Ingleside Cottage and Melrose Lodge, owned 
by Mr. A. B. Pulliuan and C. !>. Marsh, of Chicago, 
111., also J. v. Kaston's Villa, called Stuyvesant Cot- 
tage, and Rev. Ceorge Rockwell's Cottage. 0])posite 
on the right, is the famous Pullman Island, ''Castle 
Rest," where Ceorge M. PuHinan spiMil one hundred 
and fifty thousand dollars on huildings, etc., and 
presented the whole Island and surroundings (o 
his mother on her eighty-fourth hirlhday. Also, 
where Cen. U. S. Crant visited in 1S72. Next, West 
and Safe Point, which are on Wells' Island. On the 
left is the famous Devil's Rock and Oven of historic 
fame. It is said that here is where Bill Johnson hid 
himself, as there is an opening in the rock large 
enough for the usual fishing boat to enter with its 
contents and be completely hid from view. This is 
what is called the Oven, and it resembles the old form 
of Dutch ovens. Beyond, on the left near the main 
shore, is C'uba, owned by W. V. Story, of Buffalo, 
N. Y. Opposite, on the rig!it, is ('raig's Side, owned 
by H. A. Laughlin, of Pittsburgh. Next, on the left, 
is Hill's Island and boat house, owned by C. K. Hill, 
of Chicago, III. Next, on the left, is Warner's Island. 
On the right is Palisade Point, owned by A. ('. Peck- 
with. Next, on the left, is Comfort Island, owned by 
Mr. A. E. Clark, of the C'hicago Stock Exchange. 
Mr. Clark has lavishly expended a large amount of 
money for " Comfort." It is joined to Neh-Mahben, 
meaning twin lakes or islands, owned by J. II. 
Oliphant, of New York. On the right is Louisiana 
Point, owned by Judge La Batte, of New Orleans, 
La. ] desire to apologize for stating in a previous 
edition that Jud^je La Batte was dead. He camq to 



50 

death's door, and was so low that his physician had 
called his family to his bedside to witness his last 
moments, when he motioned to his son to come near, 
and drawing his ear down close to his lips, he whis- 
pered, " Take me to my summer home on the St. 
Lawrence." They started from New Orleans, La.) 
the next day and he arrived at Louisiana Point in 
July, and the day of this writing, August 20th, he 
had gained sixteen pounds in flesh and was feeling 
quite strong and happy — a gentleman living like the 
" Thane of Cawdor." Opposite, on the left, is Kep- 
pler Point, Buena Vista Lodge, owned by a gentleman 
from Cleveland, O., who purchased it last season. 
On the right is Seven Isles, owned by Gen. Bradley 
Winslow. Mclntyre's cottage " Photo, " owned by 
H. R. Heath, of New York, is in Dinsmore Bay, next 
to Seven Isles. On the left is an Indian Camp and 
Allegheny Point, owned by J. S. Laney, of Pittsburgh, 
Pa. A little above is Gypsy Island, owned by 
J. M. Curtis, of Cleveland, Ohio. Rose Island, 
is connected with Gypsy Island by a beautiful 
rustic bridge. Rose Island and cottage is owned by 
W. G. Rose, Ex-Mayor of Cleveland, O. Opposite, 
on the right, is Shady Covert, a beautiful villa owned 
by J. C. Covert, Editor of the Cleveland Leader. On 
the right is Point Vivian, a delightful spot occupied 
by a stock company, mostly from Evan's Mills, N. Y. 
Opposite, on the right, is Island Royal, owned by 
Royal E. Deane, of New York. Behind Royal is 
Holton's Cottage, also owned by Royal E. Deane. 
Above, on the right, is Hill Crest, owned by General 
Shields, of Philadelphia, Pa. 

Nothing of interest right or left for the space of a 
mile except Lindner's Island, until we come to Central 



51 

Park (Woodbine and Crest Cottages are located here), 
where we make our first stop for passengers. The next 
island is owned by J. F. Moffit, of Watertown, N. Y. — 
Brown's Bay on the right and Swan's Bay on the left. 
A little above on the left is Little Calumet, owned by 
J. I). Green, of Boston, Mass. Above, on the main 
shore, is the cottage of J. B. Collins. Opposite, on the 
right, may be seen the celebrated Limburger Cheese 
Factory. Opposite, on the main shore, left, is the farm 
and house of Capt. Jack ; the mill and dock somewhat 
dilapidated. Opposite is Island Blanche and cottage, 
E. D. Buckingham, owner. A little opposite is Paul's 
Dock and Sunny Side, with three other villas ; also a 
dairy farm, which, from its fine looking barns, sheds 
and house must be considered very prosperous. Peel's 
Dock having been rebuilt, was memorable as the spot, 
where the vessel " Sir Robert Peel " was burned in 
retaliation for the "Caroline" being sent over Niagara 
Falls. Next on the right, "Jolly Oaks," Twin Cottage 
Home, Pleasant View and San Souci's, four cottages 
and dock. The pretty little summer house on the 
Island passed, we arrive at Fern Cliff cottages and 
dock. A large stone cottage was erected here two 
seasons ago, called Hiawatha Cottage. This is for sale. 
Beautiful villas, camps and cottages line the banks on 
the right, among which is Fair View, owned by Hon. 
W. W. Butterfield, of Redwood, N. Y., until we arrive 
at Fine View. Opposite, on the left, is Fisher's Land- 
ing, Robinson Island, Johnson's Light and Cottage, 
Hemlock, Cedar and other islands, around the point is 
Castle Chase, and we come in sight of Thousand Island 
Park — located at the upper end of Wells' Island, owned 
and controlled by the Methodists ; the neatest, most 



52 

orderly and attractive resort among the Islands. Some- 
thing should be said here regarding this, the most cele- 
brated spot among the Thousand Islands. As it 
is impossible, from my limited knowledge, to do the 
subject justice, and, as I cannot steal, clip, borrow or 
plagiarize from any other work, I can only say, stay 
over one day, or until the boat comes back, and look 
over this delightful spot. 

Again on our way, we pass the head of Wells' Island, 
and have a view on the right of the finest avenue in the 
Park, a long line of boat-houses, and a number of steam 
yachts, sail and fishing boats, windmills, etc., etc. 
Beyond, on the right in the distance, is Hemlock Island 
and Hotel, owned by Mr. Garrison, of Syracuse. The 
large body of water on the right is Eel Bay. On the 
right is Grennell's Island and House, where the boat 
stops for passengers ; beyond, on the right, is Otsego 
Point and cottages. We next pass two cottages, after 
which Pickton Isle. Next is the Burg group ; beyond 
are the Packingham Islands ; in the distance on the 
left is Round Island Park and the " Frontenac" Hotel ; 
many magnificent cottages line the shores all around 
the island. This is a favorite resort of the Baptists. 
On the right is Little Round Island, and on the left in 
the bay is Washington Island ; opposite on the right is 
the .celebrated Calumet Island, owned by Chas. G. 
Emery, of Old Judge cigarette fame. In the distance, 
front, is Clayton. The depot and docks of the R., W. 
& O. R. R. are located here. Opposite is Gov. Alvord's 
Island. After leaving Clayton, on the left you will 
have a view of Prospect Park and Hill, a delightful 
resort. Next on the left, as we turn, is Blanket Island, 
on the right is Grindstone and Club Island ; next on 



53 

the right is Whisky Island, on the left Opposite is 
Ambler's Point ; beyond is the celebrated Wolf or 
Long Island, the largest of the Thousand Islands, 
being twenty-one miles long ; next is Hickory Island. 
We now cross the dividing line, after which many 
islands appear, all sizes and shapes until we come to 
Ross Dick Island ; beyond is Burnt Island ; light in the 
distance is Red Horse Light ; opposite, on the right, is 
Kalaria, owned by Prof. Castle, of Toronto, Canada^ 
and occupied by Wilmot Castle and his brother Arthur, 
and families, this season ; Wilmot Castle & Co., of 
Rochester, N. Y., — the manufacturers of the Arnold 
automatic cooker. We have used one in our family for 
the past five years, and I think more of it than I do of 
'^ my mother-in-law," and she was one of the best 
women that ever lived. 

AMONG THE ISLANDS. 

It must not be supposed that these hundreds of islands 
are all occupied and have cottages on them, or laid out 
with walks or fountains. For every island that has a 
house on it there are perhaps twenty that have none. 
The number of houses are increasing -every year, and I 
think that in time nearly every island will be occupied 
in the Canadian Channel as they are in the American. 
We next arrive at . ■ 

GANANOQUE. 

Here the captain announces a stay of twenty-five 
minutes for refreshments, remarking, also, that it takes 
twelve minutes to walk up town and twelve minutes 
back, with the remainder for refresh, which seems to my 
mind a little too fresh. Leaving Gananoque on time, 



54 

we will return by the Canadian Channel, which is more 
wild and picturesque, as far as scenery is concerned, 
although not one island or point is inhabited here to ten 
in the American Channel. On the right is Kipp Island. 
Passing many beautiful islands and light houses, we 
arrive at Halstead's Bay — after passing which the 
islands come thick and fast, all sizes and shapes, from a 
little one for a cent to those done up in bunches, like 
asparagus, and you get a bunch for five. We pass very 
close to Ash Island, so near that moss has been plucked 
by passengers on the boat. We soon arrive at Lind 
Light, on the right, and are coming to the Fiddler's 
Klbow. Lay this book aside at this point and feast the 
eye, for no writer could do the subject of a description 
justice. The King of Dwarfs, Gen. Tom Thumb, was a 
passenger on the "Wanderer " one day when he asked the 
captain why he could not have an island. The captain, 
with his usual generosity, gave him one just his size, and 
to commemorate the event has placed a monument there 
to his memory. We soon emerge from our land, or 
island-locked channel, and approach Darling's Dock. 
The dock is visible, but we have never seen the darling 
— after which comes Echo point, where you can hear as 
many echoes as you pay cents fare. Passing a farm- 
house on the right, we soon arrive on the left at Rock- 
port ; here you will observe we have but two seasons of 
the year. Ice and Rock ; this is the Rocky season. 
Turning to the right, we make direct for Westminster 
Park. Looking backward over the, left shoulder, you 
will have a view of Idlewild and Sport Islands, formerly 
owned by the Packers, of Pennsylvania, who expended 
seventy-eight thousand dollars to beautify this spot, now 
owned by E. P. Wilber, Pres. of the Lehigh Valley R. R. 



55 

& Coal Co. A better view of those islands may be 
obtained after leaving Westminster Park for Alexandria 
Bay. After passing the point, Rayden's Island, Fairy- 
land comes in view. The little island with cotta^re, is 
owned by Mr. Hasbrouck, of Ogdensburg, N. Y., called 
Pike Island. The next on the right is St. John's Island, 
owned by Judge Donahue, of New York. The next on 
the right is Manhattan group, owned by Judge Spencer 
and Hasbrouck, of New York. A wooden bridge joins 
them together. This is the first island inhabited for 
recreation, and was bought by Seth Green, the fish 
culturist of New York State; on the left is Long Beach, 
Anthony's Point, owned and occupied by Messrs. E. and 
H. T. Anthony, of 591 Broadway, New York, the manu- 
facturers and dealers and importers of photographic 
instruments, apparatus and supplies, (the Ledges owned 
by C. J. Hudson, of New York) and Bonnie Castle ; on 
the right is Dishler and Hart's Island. We next arrive 
at Alexandria Bay, from which we started almost four 
hours ago. 

''YES! A GREAS-Y STATUE." 

"How much do you weigh?" Well I am asked that 
question many times every day, and as I am not sensi- 
tive will say my weight is three hundred and thirty-three 
pounds in the shade, just one pound for every mile 
between Toronto and Montreal via Grand Trunk Rail- 
way. The reason why I say the shade, is because there 
has never been raised a mathematician with the ability to 
compute the weight of a grease spot, and were I com- 
pelled to remain in the sun very long would make one, 
and do not care to mislead people into an error. The 
fat of this land is about as unequally distributed as the 



S6 

wealth. I'hose who ain't got it want it ; those who have 
it, have too much. 1 am therefore a \'anderbilt in grease, 
have a corner in h\rd. as it were. 

♦*DO YOU GO OUT FISHING?" 

Well, not often. Vou see, this ponderous body of mine 
does not fit the average tishing boat. My fears are not 
all bound up in that one fact, nor in the satisfaction that 
if the boat should upset that 1 would not sink, but the 
fear that is indelibly photographed upon my mind, that 
as 1 would {\oi\i, and being so "large, some steamboat cap- 
tain or pilot would take me for an island, lay alongside 
and let the passengers off for a little picnic or an hour's 
pleastu^e. Think of it. 

YACHTING. 

\\ater — and as one enthusiastic writer puts it — such 
water ! — is abinulant, and to enjoy this water in a pen- 
sive or poetic mood, the steaut yacht should be brought 
into requisition. Private yachts are numerous and ele- 
gant, and it is to the credit of the owners that they are not 
niggardly in exhibiting a spirit of generosity and cour- 
tesv. Thev are constantly inviting individuals and 
parties to eniov the exhilarating excitement of the 
shotting around the beautiful spots. And if you, dear 
tourist, have nc^ friend that invites you to share a 
cushioned seat in his graceful fairy like craft, then go 
to Capt. Reese, on the ''New Island Wanderer," who will 
take vou on an excursion among the islands that you 
"will gladly recall as a cheerful reminiscence of vour St. 
Lawrence excursion, for the opportunity will have been 
offered to bring within the range of your vision enchant- 
iig scenes that pen is not adequate to describe, but by 



57 

purchasing one of the '' That I'oy's" Pirtiiros of the St. 
Lawrence, you will be possesstM- of the only correet map, 
a perfect o-uide to the river. 

"WOULD YOU BELIEVE IT?" 

A gentleman from London came on hoard the boat 
at Kingston one morning, rushed up to me and said, 
"Mr. Habbage, how do you do! W'hv, vou i\uuu)t 
imagine how glad I am to see yoii ! \\h\\ do vou know 
that before I left ' Hoafk ' a lady invited me to take 
tea at her house, and when I told her 1 was coming to 
America she never stopped talking about you for over 
two hours ; it is a great relief to meet you, I assure 
you." Meeting upon the street one afternoon, a very 
fine looking old gentleman, he said, " Hold on a 
moment, 1 have something to tell you. 1 have just 
received a letter from my daughter who lives in 
Australia, she said she found one of your books upon 
the table at her friend's house where she was visiting 
so she inquired how it came there. ' ^^ hy, bless your 
soul, we took a trip with him down the St. Lawrence 
River and he made it pleasant for us for eight hours 
and I would not part with the book for an interest in 
the profits of the ' new version ' or revised edition." 

A lady wrote me from Trenton, N. J. : " While at 
Alexandria Bay in 1883, I bought a copy of the ' Phat 
Boys' Delineations of the St. I>awrence River (I 
think of the Author from the picture on the cover) 
Have read it over and over to my friends until it is 
completely worn out, can you forward me another 
copy?" I did as requested and at the same time 
inquired what pleased her friends most, and she said 



58 

in reply, that it was all^ good, but the articles upon 
myself were the most pleasing to her. I must, there- 
fore, send her a copy of this, my last effort. The 
latter part of May I met a gentleman at the Sturte- 
vant House, New York, while visiting Mr. J. C. 
Matthews, the proprietor, who said, "how do you do, 
Mr. Babbage. I presume you do not remember me, 
but while at the Thousand Islands last season, and 
before going to Montreal, I purchased of you one of 
your books, and it would be an injustice not to tell 
you that we had more real pleasure and profit from 
its perusal than any one thing on our trip. I desire 
to thank you, and my wife would do the same were 
she here. The book is almost worn out ; more than 
fifty of my friends have read it. I want another 
copy ; if you will not send it, I will come to Alexandria 
Bay and get it." 

H. H. WARNER AND GEO. M. PULLMAN. 

Two of nature's noble men. Two of the greatest 
benefactors of the human race. Two of the greatest 
men born in New York State. One the inventor of 
the celebrated Pullman Car that has given ease, rest 
and comfort to the whole enlightened world. The 
other, the Warner's Safe Cure, which has given relief 
to millions of sufferers from Kidney and Liver disease. 

Each in turn are spending a small portion of their 
immense wealth in building suitable cottages upon 
their respective islands, " Warner's " and " Pullman's," 
which they expect to occupy during the coming 
season. When such men as they are, do what they 
intend, it will prove to the world that the Thousand 



59 

Islands, as a watering place, has no equal, and by 
next season we may look for a " boom " beyond our 
greatest expectation. 

THE ''LOTUS SEEKER." 

This tidy little craft made its first appearance on 
the St. Lawrence two seasons ago and is owned by Mr. 
Holden, of New York, who has a very beautifu 
cottage at Thousand Island Park. Many times 
during the season she could be seen plying in and out 
among the islands, comfortably filled with invited 
guests of her owner and passing every thing moved by 
steam power. I felt quite badly one day while taking a 
ride upon one of the "cracked" yachts, to be passed 
so quickly by the " Lotus Seeker " that I did not have 
time to say good-bye to my friend, J. W. Burdick, 
Gen. Passenger Agent of the D. & H. R. R. Co., who 
was one of her passengers. 

MR. SAM. SONDHEIM. 

How well I remember his first visit to the Thousand 
Isles, accompanied by several friends, all of whom 
are expert fishermen, Messrs. Ehrich Bros., of 6th 
Ave. and 23d St., New York, Messrs. Max and Harry 
Stadler, of Broadway, New York. Well Sam was the 
most amateur of all amateur fishers, but he soon 
became infatuated, and as good luck followed each 
and every effort, " Sam " became almost desperate. I 
never saw one so much ^'-enthused.'" Why, he tele- 
graphed home three times and had his vacation 
extended. At last he was so lucky he beat all the 
experts, broke all the records and cheerfully left for 
home, sighing, however, to think he had no more 



6o 



conquests to make. Years have passed since then, 
and now he is numbered among the experc fishers of 
the Iskmds. 

WALTER H. GRIFFIN, 

who for many years was room clerk at the Thousand 
Island House (now connected with Hotel JMarlbor- 
ough. New York), was the winner of the prize for 
the largest pickerel catch of 18S4. It was caught 
within one hundred yards of the hotel and weighed 
eighteen and three-quarter pounds. 

MR. J. C. MATTHEWS, 

who was the manager of the Thousand Island House 
in 1884. is inquired after by visitors more than any 
other person. I hope to be .saved some trouble, as 
well as time, by stating here that he is the proprietor 
of the Sturtevant House, New York. If you visit the 
city give him a call. 

LORD DUFFERIN, 

one of Canada's fornier GovernorrOenerals, and in my 
opinion the best they ever had, was a passenger down 
the St. Tawrence many times while I was guide to the 
River. How well I remember some one asking him 
why he left Toronto and his comfortable quarters at 
the Queen's Hotel to come to Montreal. He answered 
by stating, that over across the lake in the United 
States, they had just had an election, the Tilden and 
Hayes campaign, and as it was impossible to tell who was 
really chosen by the people, he was afraid they, the 
people, would rise in their might, send a deputation over 



6i 

to Toronto, kidnap him and place him in the presidential 
chair. Then what would become of Poor Little 
Canada. 

GEORGE WARREN SHEPARD, 

formerly a Utica dry goods merchant, and now asso- 
ciated with his brother in Winter street, Boston, Mass., 
made the Thousand Islands his home many summers. I 
well remember one evening at Clayton, having just met 
and talked over old times, (we were in the minstrel 
business at one time, say twenty-five years ago), when 
an old countryman from 'way back came up and inter- 
rupted our conversation by asking what made those 
smooth tracks on the water. I was about to remark 
that it was the wake of some vessel or steamer, when 
George, to guy the farmer, said : " They were the 
tracks made by sleighs during the winter and were not 
taken up when the ice went out." 

ALL NATIONALITIES BENEFITED. 

It improves even the Italian to visit Alexandria Bay. 
We had one there last season who washed his face 
three times a day and ate his meals at the table like a 
Christian. 



i6 



A LITTLE ONE ON PERKINS." 



Two gentlemen at the Marsden House one day were 
talking, when the subject of truth was approached, and 
one of them who stammered, said, " There are t-t-three 
great li-liars i-i-in America." The friend said, ^' Who 
are they ? " "0-o-one of t-t-them i-i-is T-T-Tom Oc-Oc- 
Ochiltree of Te-Te-Texas, and th-th-the other two is 
E-E-Eli Perkins." 



62 

VISITORS AT THE THOUSAND ISLANDS 

who desire to see Montreal and return by boat (their 
time being limited), the following information will be 
of interest. All passengers arrive in Montreal between 
six and seven o'clock p. m., as there is little to see at 
night and very little time to see it in. The boat leaves 
her dock, Canal Basin, to return, every morning at 9 
o'clock except Sunday. You can remain in Montreal 
until the 12 m. train for Lachine from the G. T. R. sta- 
tion (by taking the train, fare 25 cents, you will arrive 
at Lachine in time to take the boat and enjoy your 
dinner while passing through Lake St. Louis). Should 
you desire to prolong your stay, remain in Montreal 
until the 5 p. m. train leaves same depot for Coteau 
Landing. A carriage in waiting will take you to the 
boat, fare from Montreal, including carriage, $1.25. You 
will take passage from there at seven o'clock, and have 
your supper on board the boat while passing through 
Lake St. Francis. It takes the boat sixteen hours 
longer to come back than to go down (reason they are 
compelled to pass through the Lachine, Beauharnois 
and Cornwall canals, which consumes the time). All 
passengers arrive at Alexandria Bay, every day, between 
twelve and one o'clock p. m., except on Monday. 

WHAT I KNOW ABOUT CATCHING FISH. 

During last summer I was at Alexandria Bay, N. Y., 
and took note of some of the best catches of fish, but I 
have not the space to record them. Let me say that 
anybody can catch fish of the following varieties any- 
where in the St. Lawrence River : Rock bass, black 
bass, perch, pike, pickerel and muscalonge. I have 
caught, off the dock at the Bay, in less than two hours, 



63 

a black bass weighing three and one-half pounds and 
a pickerel weighing over six pounds. The largest fish 
caught last season was a muscalonge, weight 38 lbs., 
caught at an Island opposite the bay near Rockport. A 
pike ^^2 pounds, black bass 5)^ pounds, a pickerel 13 
pounds. Several fishing parties out for one to three 
days brought in such enormous catches that if I men- 
tioned them they would be called fish stories. 

Respectfully yours, E. F. BABBAGE. 

A REAL LIVE DUDE. 

was at the Bay last season, and I must give him credit 
for one thing, I could not for having either money 
or brains, hut will say he was very attentive to the 
ladies, and it may be said to his credit, he never tried 
to cut me out. One fine morning he induced three of 
the nicest young ladies at the Bay to take a boat ride, 
and for the privilege of their company agreed to do 
the rowing himself. They had' been out upon the 
water for some time, and he had done the rowing 
heroically, but getting into the strong current, his 
physical development was being tested to the utmost, 
when he asked the young ladies " if it would not be 
better for him to hug the shore." After a pause of a 
minute, the girliest girl of the group exclaimed : 
" Well, if you can't find anything better to hug, do for 
heaven's sake ' hug the shore ! ' " 

E. B. WARREN, OF PHILADELPHIA, PA., 

with his wife and daughters, have in the past paid the 
St. Lawrence River many visits, and been mentioned 
by me for their fish catches. One day in particular 
they brought in and exhibited at the Thousand Island 



64 

House, iS small mouthed black ba^s weighing 
seventv-four pounds. Since the completion of " The 
Sagamore '* on Green Island, Lake George, and the 
building- of an elegant cottage there, he stays at home, 
and I am contented with the old proverb, " Tho' lost to 
sight to memory dear." 

EDWARD INGRAHAM, 

The King of Connecticut Clock Manufacturers, whose 
immense factories are located at Bristol, Conn., was^ 
spending a few days at " The Sagamore," Lake George, 
in order to gain strength after recovery from a severe 
attack of "pneumonia." The bracing air of this locality, 
together with two hours spent in a social chat with a 
select circle of the guests (myself included), he said it 
would be sure to produce the desired effect — health and 
strength. I mean to time him with an eight day clock 
and see. 

E. G. GILMORE, 

Xew York's greatest Theatrical ^lanager, has enjoyed 
many seasons of pleasure at Alexandria Bay. The 
last time I saw him, he wanted to know how it would 
do for him to bring his whole corps de ballet to the 
Thousand Islands for a season's recuperation, " don't 
you think it would give them vigor, such good brac- 
ing air as you have up there ? " 

MESSRS. RAYMOND AND WHITCOMB, 

America's greatest Excursion Agents, have probably 
brought more people to the St. Lawrence River, than 
have come directly from the reading of the several 
editions of mv book that have been issued during: the 



65 

past eight years, which is saying a great deal for 
them. I hope to have the pleasure of meeting more 
of their select parties during the coming season. The 
Detroit News excursion should not be forgotten, they 
have been angel visits, however, for the past three 
years. 

MR. AND MRS. CHAS. MAC EVOY, 

of New York, have been visitors at the Thousand 
Islands many times. Mr. MacEvoy has persevered and 
after many years succeeded in producing "Glazed 
Kid" the most superb of shoe materials, *' out vieing 
France." My Auntie May, who weighs two hundred 
and sixty-fiye pounds, after wearing a pair of shoes 
four months made of this material, says, " the wearing 
qualities of the glazed kid produced the best results 
of any she ever wore." One season, with a New 
York friend, they caught the largest catch of black 
bass I ever saw brought in by amateurs. 

DR. PERRY OF THE UNITED STATES 

HOTEL, 

Saratoga Springs, caught the largest muscalonge of 
the season. As the fishing is much better every 
year, on account of all illegal fishing with nets having 
been stopped, I hope to see him again at the Bay, as 
well as all other lovers of fishing. 



66 

THE NAMES OF THE INHABITED ISLANDS, 

POINTS AND COTTAGES 

In the American Channel of the river, alphabetically arranged : 

A 

Allegheny Point J, S. Laney. 

Arcadia and Ina S. A. Briggs- 

Alice Col. A. J. Casse. 

B 

Bergshire Hon. S. G. Pope. 

Bay Side H. B. Mosher. 

Bonny Eyrie Mrs. Peck. 

Bay View C.S.Lyman. 

Belle Island Rev. Walter Ayrault. 

Bella Vista Lodge R. B. Chisholm. 

Bonny Castle (Main Land) Mrs. J. G. Holland. 

Birch Island W, J. Lewis. 

c 

Castle Fannie Rev. W. Demoster Chase, 

Co\ ert J . C. Covert. 

Cloud Rest A. H. Greenwalt. 

Chillon ' A. H. Greenwalt. 

Calumet Chas. G. Emery. 

Cedar Island J. M. Curtis. 

Comfort Island A. E. Clark. 

Craig Side (Wells' Island) H. A. Laughlin. 

Crescent Cottages (Main Land) Bleeckdr Van Wagenen. 

D 

Devil's Oven H. R. Heath. 

Deshler Island W. G . Deshler. 

Deer Island Hon. S. Miller. 

Douglass Island Douglass Miller. 

Dinglespeil Joseph Babcock. 

E 

Elephant Rock T. C. Chittenden. 

Easton, Stuyvesant, Cherry Island James E. Easton. 

Edge wood Park Edge wood Park Association. 

Edge wood Cottage G.C.Martin. 

Ella Island. k. E. Hungerford. 

Excelsior Group C.S.Goodwin. 

F 

Frederick Island C. L. Fredericks. 

Fisher's Landing Mrs.R.Gurnee & Miss Newton. 

Friendly E.W.Dewey. 

Florence Island H. S. Chandler. 

Felseneck Prof . A. G. Hopkins. 

Fern N. & J. Wilson. 

Fairyland C. H. & W. B. Hayden. 

G 

Governor's Island Hon. T. G. Alvord. 

Gun Island H. H. W^arner. 

Goose Island Mrs. Lottie Simonds. 

Gypsy Island J. M. Curtis. 



67 
H 

Helen's Island Mrs. O. G. Staples. 

Hemlock Hon. W. F. Porter and Wilson . 

Hub Island George W. Best, 

Holloway's Point Nathan HoUoway. 

Harmony Mrs. C. Berger. 

Hub Clark Island Will Clark. 

Hart's Island Hon. E. K. Hart. 

Huguenot L. Hasbrouck. 

I 

Isle Helena Mrs. Helen S. Taylor. 

Isle of Pines Mrs. E. N. Robinson. 

Island Royal Royal E. Deane. 

Island Grade Miss G. Fox. 

Ingleside (Cherry Island) G, B, Marsh. 

Imperial Island G. T. Rafferty. 

Island Mary W. M. Palmer. 

Idlewild Mrs. R. A, Packer. 

J 

Jefferson Island E. P. Gardiner. 

Jolly Oaks (Wells' Island) Prof. A. H. Brown and others. 

K 

. Killien's Point Mr. J. Killien. 

Kit Grafton Mrs. S. L. George, 

L 

Little Calumet Oliver H . Green. 

Lone Pine Comstock & Co. 

Little Charm Island Mrs. F. W. Baker. 

Look Out Island Thos. H. Borden. 

Little Lehigh C. H. Cummings. 

Little Fraud R. Pease. 

Long Branch Mrs. C. E. Clark. 

Little Delight L. W. Morrison. 

Long Rock W. F. Wilson. 

Little Whortleberry Mrs. L. E, B. Brown. 

Lattimer Dr. C. E. Lattimer. 

Lindner's John Lindner. 

Louisiana Point Judge La Batte . 

Little Gem Mrs. V. Walton. 

Little Angel W. A, Angell. 

Linlithgow Hon. R. A. Livingston. 

Lily's Island L. B. H. Morrison. 

IVI 

Maple Island Joseph Atwell. 

Minium Rev. W. W. Walsh. 

Melrose Lodge (Cherry Island) A. B. Pullman. 

Manhattan J- L. Hasbrouck, J. C. Spencer, 

Maple Island J. L. Hasbrouck. 

N 

Nemah-bin J . H . OUphant. 

Nobby Island H. R. Heath. 

Nett's Island W. B, Hayden, 

o 

One Tree Island William Wright. 

Occident and Orient E. W. Washburn, 

Ours Island Mrs. M, Carter. 



6^ 



P 

Peel Island Mrs. S. P. Lake and others. 

Point Vivian R. T. Evans and others. 

Photo Island H. R. Heath. 

Pullman Island George M. Pullman. 

Point Lookout (Wells' Island) Miss L. J. Bullock. 

Picnic Point Westminster Park Association. 

Point Marguerite (Main Island). E. Anthony. 

Pike Island Frank F. Dickinson. 

Palisade Point A. C. Beckwith. 

Q 

Quartett Island Mrs. W. Egan. 

R 

Rob Roy Island A. H. Greenwalt. 

River Side Island , James C. Lee. 

Resort Island W. J. Lewis. 

Round Island Baptist Association. 

s 

Schooner Island J. N. Whitehouse. 

Sunbeam Group Odd Fellows of Watertown . 

Spuyten Duyvel Alice P. Sargent. 

Summer-Land Summer-Land Association. 

Sunny-Side Island W. Stevenson. 

Seven Isles Hon. Bradley Winslow. 

Sunny Side (Cherry Island) . Rev. George Rockwell. 

Safe Point (Wells' Island) H. H. Warner. 

St. Elmo N. H. Hunt. 

Sun-Dew Island Chas. M. Slamm. 

St. John's Judge Donohue. 

Sport Island H. C. Wilber. 

T 

Two Islands, Eel Bay Dr. E. L. Sargent. 

Twin Islands I. L. Huntington. 

Throop Dock Dr. C. E. Lattimer and -others. 

The Ledges Mrs. J. L. Hudson. 

Thousand Island Park Methodist Association. 

u 

Una Island ; Mrs. M. E. Steele. 

V 

Vanderbilt Island J . B . Hamilton. 

Vilula Island H. Sisson. 

w 

Walton Island J. N, & G. H. Robinson. 

West View Island Hon. S. G. Pope. 

Welcome Island Hon. S. G. Pope. 

Whortleberry Island Mrs. Etta Stillwell. 

Watch Island Mrs. Elizabeth Skinner. 

Waving Branches H. S. Ainsworth. 

Wild Rose Hon. W. G. Rose. 

Warner Island H. H. Warner. 

Wau Winet C. E. Hill. 

West Point John Mathews. 



Route A. 



N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R 



The New York Central & Hudson River Railroad, 
aptly termed "America's Greatest Railroad," reaches 
more celebrated health and pleasure resorts than prob- 
ably any other line in the United States, and has long 
been the favorite route with tourists to Saratoga, Lake 
George, Lake Champlain and the Catskill Mountains, 
Montreal, Adirondack Mountains, Thousand Islands? 
Richfield and Sharon Springs, Cooperstown, Niagara 
Falls, and hundreds of other noted resorts of New York 
State, Ngw England and Canada. 

The New York Central is the only four-track railroad 
in the world, and enjoys the unique distinction of being 
the only trunk line with a passenger station in the City 
of New York, all trains arriving at and departing from 
Grand Central Station, Fourth Avenue and Forty- 
Second Street, the very centre of the city. 

With its magnificent roadway, easy curves, light 
grades, superb equipment and historic scenery, the 
New York Central presents the highest developments of 
the modern art of transport. 



7° 



Route B. 



WEST SHORE ROUTE, 



N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R., LESSEES. 



THE TOURIST ROUTE TO THE NORTH. 

While many suppose that both sides of the Hudson 
River present equal attractions — and it would be hard 
to decide which is the most beautiful — it is a curious 
fact that all, or nearly all, the noted summer resorts for 
which the countr}^ adjacent is famous are located on 
its western bank. Thus, starting from New York and 
following up the West Shore Route, we find the Pali- 
sades, Tappan, Rockland Lake, Stony Point, Crans'ton's, 
West Point, Cornwall, Lake Mohonk and Minnewaska, 
the Catskills, Saratoga, Mount McGregor, and the 
Adirondacks. 

HOW TO REACH KAATERSKILL. 

The West Shore Railway connects with the Ulster 
and Delaware Railroad at Kingston, New York, thence 
the journe}^ is made to Phoenicia via the Ulster and 
Delaware Railroad. At Phoenica connection is made 
with the Stony Clove Railroad and Kaaterskill Rail- 
road to Kaaterskill Station, the terminus of the Kaater- 
skill Railroad ; making a through all rail route to the 
top of the mountain. 



n 

HOTEL KAATERSKILL AND ITS ARTI- 
FICIAL SURROUNDINGS. 

There it is upon the topmost peak of the mountain 
from which it takes its name, three thousand feet above 
the sea level, and from its broad porches commanding 
views of ten thousand square miles of the valley of the 
Hudson, with sixty miles of that, the most beautiful 
river in the world, in the foreground. Looking north- 
ward the Adirondacks are seen stretching away from 
the base, eastward the Green Mountains and the Berk- 
shire Hills, and to the south the Highlands. It is only 
from the peaks of the Pacific Slope that views of greater 
breadth and grandeur of beauty are to be obtained, but 
upon them there is no Hotel Kaaterskill to offer its 
hospitality to the tired tourist or loiterer by pleasant 
ways, nor are they within a few hours of the great 
Eastern centers of population, as the Hotel Kaater- 
skill is. Pay it a visit, dear reader, and enjoy the hos- 
pitality of its manager, Mr. W. F. Paige, and his assist- 
ants, and I know you will be pleased. 

In addition to the above points of interest, the 
traveler may be conveyed to Lake George, Lake 
Champlain and Montreal on the north; Sharon Springs, 
Cooperstown, Richfield Springs Thousand Islands and 
the Lake Region of Central New York, or take the 
New York Central Railroad from the Grand Central 
station and proceed on the world renowned four track 
road to Utica where direct connection can be made with 
the Utica and Black River branch of the Rome, Water- 
town and Odgensburg Railroad, which in a few hours 
will bring you to the majestic scenery of the St. Law- 
rence. At Clayton you take one of the beautiful 



72 

steamers of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation 
Company, direct from Montreal, or continue on by 
rail to Rochester. Should you remain over, stop at the 
New Osburn House, kept by my friend, Elmer E. Almy, 
or continue to 

BUFFALO, N. Y., 

\Yhich is connected with Toronto by the Grand Trunk 
R. R., the new route, leaving Erie Depot at S.15 A. M., 
bv rail to Port Dalhousie, connecting with the steamer 
for Toronto, arriving at 12.55 P- ^^■■' connecting with 
Roval ]Mail Line for Thousand Islands and Montreal, 
or proceed by rail to 

NIAGARA FALLS. 

When visiting this wonder of wonders at any season 
of the year, stop at the Spencer House. It is hrst- 
class and under the management of A. Hector Gluck. 
You are sure to be satisfied in every way. The internal 
arrangements of the hotel combine every advantage of 
quiet, comfort and convenience. The rooms are 
tastefullv and richly furnished and scrupulously clean. 
Viands that delight the eye and palate, linen, china and 
silver of unexceptionable quality, servants ready without 
impertinence, and prompt without bribery, render it a 
most agreeable place of entertainment. Charles Dick- 
ens has praised its table, AVilkie Collins its beds and 
fine linen. Booth declares it his favorite hotel, Modjeska, 
Parepa Rosa, Barrett — that prince and king of good- 
fellowship, Chauncey M. Depew, — King Kalakaua, the 
Grand Duke Alexis, Bartholdi, and hundreds of others 
have enjoyed its hospitalities. It is kept on the 



73 

American plan. Its prices for rooms and board on the 
first floor are $4.00 per day per person ; on the second 
floor, $3.50 ; and on the third floor, $3.00. Trains 
leave Niagara Falls every morning, Sundays excepted, 
by Grand Trunk R. R. direct for Toronto, arriving in 
time to connect with the Mail Line for Montreal. 
Trains leave Niagara Falls every morning, except 
Sunday, at 9.45 A. M. via Central Hudson branch for 
Lewiston. Any information relative to the route or 
the purchase of tickets will be cheerfully given upon 
application to Mrs. L. Barber, who can be found at 
room No. i, of the International Hotel Building. 

At Lewiston connections are made with the fast 
sailing side-wheel steamboats 

"CHICORA" AND 'XIBOLA," 

making three trips daily across the beautiful Lake 
Ontario, arriving at Toronto in time to connect with 
the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company for 
Kingston, Alexandria Bay, Thousand Islands and 
Rapids of the St. Lawrence to Montreal. 

TORONTO, 

the capital of the Province of Ontario, is situated on 
a circular bay of the same name, and was founded by 
Governor Simcoe in 1794, and we advise all tourists 
to make a stay of one or two days here. It is the only 
Americanized city in the Dominion of Canada. The 
Queens Royal Hotel, situated at Niagara on the Nia- 
gara river, and the Queens Hotel, at Toronto, are pre- 
sided over by Messrs. McGaw and Winnett ; this is 
enough in their praise — if you stop at either of these 
hotels you will surely be pleased. If you desire a car- 



74 

riage while in the city, Telephone No. 109, R. Bond's 
livery, York St. His new establishment is the largest 
and most commodious in the Dominion of Canada and 
contains every style of equipage run on wheels, from 
the Dog Cart to the Tally-Ho Coach — everything first- 
class in that line. 

PORT HOPE 

is situated 65 miles from Toronto. A small stream 
which here falls into the lake, has formed a valley, in 
which the town is located. The harbor at the mouth 
of the stream is shallow, but safe and commodious. 
Port Hope is a pretty town ; on the western side the 
hills rise gradually one above the other. The highest 
summit, called "FortOrton," affords a fine prospect, 
and overlooks the country for a great distance. The 
village is incorporated ; population about 5,114. A 
direct route to Rochester by the steamer " Norseman " 
leaves this port every morning, except Sunday, calling 
at Port Hope and connecting with Grand Truiik train 
from Toronto every week day morning and arriving^ in 
Rochester the same afternoon. The Grand Summer 
Excursions of the " Norseman" from Rochester to Alex- 
andria Bay leave Rochester every Saturday afternoon and 
passing through the 1,000 Island scenery of the 
St. Lawrence River, arrives at Alexandria Bay in time 
for dinner, giving the passengers about five hours at the 
Bay, and returns to Rochester early on Monday. I 
have advised many of my friends to make this trip, all 
of whom have expressed themselves as delighted. 

COBOURG, 

seven miles below Port Hope, contains 6,000 inhabi- 
tants. It has seven churches, two banks, three grist 
mills, two foundries, and the largest cloth factory in 



?5 

the Province. It is also the seat of Victoria CoilegG 
and Theological Institute. Midway between Port 
Hope .and Cobourg is " Duck Island," on which a 
lighthouse is maintained by the government. 

FROM KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. 

The Mail Line, or Richelieu Co.'s boats, leave 
Kingston every morning at five o'clock. As we pro- 
ceed down the river, a description of the city will be 
in order. 

Kingston has a population of 15,000, was founded 
in 1672, by Governor De Courcelles, receiving the 
name of Fort Cataraqui. Later, a massive stone fort 
was built by Count De PYontenac, and received his 
name. In 1762 the place was taken by the British, 
who gave it its present name. As a place of defense 
it stands next in strength to Quebec. The batteries 
of Fort Henry are calculated for. the reception of 
numerous cannon and mortars of the largest calibre. 
These, together with neighboring martello towers, 
form a formidable defense against any aggressive 
movement which might be directed against the city. 
These fortifications are seen to excellent advantage 
from the steamer soon after it leaves the dock. 

On the right is Garden Island ; on the left, Cedar 
Island, and behind is Fort Henry. There is here, 
also in view, the round stone towers referred to above. 
Near the middle of the river is Wolf, or Long Island, 
21 miles long, and 7 miles wide near the western end. 
There is nothing either of romance or historical 
episode to weave into our story concerning the 
inabitants of this, the largest of the Thousand Island 
group. Suffice it to say, that the territory is a portion 



76 

of the Dominion of Canada, and that the habits of 
civilized life characterize the people. Between one 
channel and the main land there is St. John's or Howe 
Island, of no mean proportions. 

Ordinarily, we have now spent about one hour on 
the steamer from Kingston, and come to the point in 
the channel where we must diverge either for Gana- 
noque or Clayton. We are bound for Clayton and the 
American channel of the St. Lawrence River. (For 
description of Gananoque and the Canadian channel,- 
see Route of the " Island Wanderer," page 47.) 

The time is early morning, the sun quite bright, and 
the atmosphere remarkably clear. The scene is now 
attractive. Look ahead in the distance a little to the 
left, and you will behold the eagle tree. Hundreds 
have been deceived with the idea that it was an actual 
live eagle, spreading its wings and soaring aloft to a 
height that the imagination can scarcely reach. It is a 
delusion ; 'tis nothing but a tree, as its true features, 
or rather beautiful foliage, has deceived the eye of the 
novice of this region. 

On the left is Grindstone Island. On it is an organ- 
ized community. The inhabitants are farmers, and for 
the education of whose children a school is maintained. 
The Island Grindstone derived its name from a vessel 
loaded with grindstones striking the Island under full 
sail, the vessel sank but the grindstones floated, Tell- 
ing this story one day to a crowd of passengers, one of 
the ladies, Mrs. E. P. Hannaford, wife of the chief 
engineer of the Grand Trunk R. R., added that-she knew 
the circumstances and that the Anchor swam ashore. 
This caused me to smile, when she added, "That was the 
captain's name." On the right is Clayton, 



77 

It may be well to state here that authorities (?) differ 
as to how many Islands there really are. Some say 
fifteen hundred; some eighteen hundred, and others 
carefully write, nearly two thousand. Life is too short 
for us to stop and count these natural beauties, and 
even the pilots have no desire to win fame as statisti- 
cians by asserting the correct number. The '' Phat 
Boy "has just issued the only correct map of the St. 
Lawrence River published, which will not be misleading 
to the student of the minute details. But we dio-ress 

CAPE VINCENT 

is a pleasant little village in Jefferson county, N. Y., at 
the junction of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence 
River. It is also the terminus of the Rome, Watertown 
& Ogdensburg Railroad, and connections are made 
here with the Thousand Island Steamboat Company's 
line of steamboats. This company owns most of the 
steamboats which ply through, around, across or other- 
wise in the Thousand Islands. Among the fleet may 
be found the palace steamers "St. Lawrence," "Islander," 
"Maynard," "Maud," etc., etc., one of which will convey 
passengers arriving by R., W. & O. R. R. to Alexandria 
Bay. Connections are made to Kingston by steamer 
"Maud." 

Let us here describe the American channel from Cape 
Vincent. 

As we steam out of this port, on the left is Long, or 
Wolf Island. The next on the right is 

CARLETON ISLAND. 

At the upper extremity the land narrows into a 
rugged promontory, ending in a bluff sixty feet in 
height. Here, lifting their ruined heads aloft, and 



78 

plainly visible to all passers along the river, stand a 
number of toppling and half ruined chimneys. These 
may be seen for miles around. So long have these old 
sentinels watched over the scenes around them that 
their history is lost in the misty past. Around them 
are the remaining ruins of an old fort, supposed by 
many to be the ruins of old Fort Frontenac. Around 
its old redoubts and parapets linger antiquated historical 
legends and traditions enough to fill a volume, which 
has been lately published by the editor of the St. Law- 
rence Netvs, of Clayton, N. Y., forming an interesting 
study. A copy was presented to me by the publisher, 
but has been mislaid and cannot be found. An ancient 
well, cut in the solid Trenton limestone down to the 
level of the lake, has been converted by the reckless 
imaginations of the natives into a receptacle of the 
golden doubloons which the French soldiers, upon 
evacuating the old fort, are said to have thrown there, 
with the brass guns on top of them. Upon either side 
and immediately in front of the bluff upon which the 
old fort stands, is a quiet, pretty little bay, which may 
once have supplied a safe and easy anchorage for the 
vessels that lay under its protecting guns. 

The fortress is supposed to have been one of import- 
ance as a military post at some time, having been built 
upon an excellent plan and in the . most substantial 
manner. Numbers of graves still occupy a field near 
by, the remains of the brave soldiers who once occupied 
the fort. The scene is of deep interest to the student 
of history. This Island has been purchased by the 
Folger Brothers, and laid out in villa lots. A grajid 
z^^;-/;^^//^ and sale was held here last August and many 
lots were purchased by wealthy parties who intend to 



79 
build upon the Island the coming season, and I have 
no doubt this will be one of the most popular resorts of 
the Thousand Islands. It is also used for pic-nics and 
pleasure parties. 

About six miles this side of Clayton is Lindsay 
Island, the only one on the right between Cape Vincent 
and Clayton. 

CLAYTON 

is in the American channel. In the distant front, 
just before landing, we have a magnificent view of 
Prospect Park and hill, a delightful spot for recrea- 
tion and pleasure. No better view can be had of the 
islands and surrounding country than from the emi- 
nence of the hill. Clayton is our first stopping place. 
It is a village that derives its importance to tourists 
as being the terminus of the R., W. & O. R. R., Utica 
and Black River Division, and here it is where 
passengers from the East generally get their first 
glimpse of the St. Lawrence. There are three good 
hotels, the Hubbard, Walton and the West End ; kept 
by as genial landlords as ever lived, and from the 
town many fishing parties go out daily. The steamer 
" St. Lawrence " runs from this port in connection with 
the above named railroads to Alexandria Bay and other 
landing places en route. Opposite Clayton, on the left, 
as we proceed down the river, is Governor Island, 
owned by Hon. Thomas G. Alvord, of Syracuse. Next 
to Gov. Alvord's Isle, on the left, is Calumet, five 
acres, owned by Chas. G. Emery, of Old Judge 
cigarette and tobacco fame, who has lavishly expended 
a large amount of money for comfort. His villa and 
apartments are quite striking, having i,ooo feet of 
dockage and a stone wall all around the island, 4,300 



8o 

feet — the only island having- an elevation of 35 feet and 
a perfect soil, all productive. He purchased the 
steam yacht " Calumet," said to be one of the fastest 
yachts on the river. The next island on the left, 
about 200 yards distant, is Powder Horn. The origin 
of this " euphonious " name has not been handed down 
by tradition. On the right is Washington Island ; on 
the left, nearly opposite, is Bluff Island ; behind which 
is Robin's Island. Next on the right, over two miles 
from Clayton, is 

ROUND ISLAND 

and park. This is the property of the Baptist Asso- 
ciation, and every year people of this persuasion, in 
large numbers, gather for religious worship and 
recreation. There is a hotel, fitted up with the 
modern appointments, for the accommodation of 300 
guests, named the " Hot^l Frontenac," whicb will be 
under the management of J. W. Almy for the season of 
T890, a man who knows how to keep a hotel. The 
docks are in excellent condition, and the fishing boats 
are favorites. On the left is Little Round Island and 
" Hog's Back." We have now several cottages in view ; 
the one painted dark brown is owned by Mr. Harbodle. 
On the point is Ethelridge cottage, and many others 
not known to me, as they spring up as quickly as 
mushrooms do in an open field. 

Leaving Round Island, and looking in the distant 
front, we have a view of the Thousand Island Park. 
About one mile from Round Island, on the right, is 
Watch Island or "Indolence," owned by S. T. Skinner. 
On the left are Bluff, Maple and Hemlock, the three 
pretty islands fronting the foot of Grindstone Island. 



On Hemlock is the Cliff House, owned by Mr. Carrison, 
of Syracuse. About five minutes after leaving- Round 
Island, we come on the left in sight of Hub Island. A 
large hotel, the Hub house, occupied this site, but was 
burned in March, 1884 ; Grinnell's Island and House ; 
Otsego Camp is also on the left. On the right is 
Fisher's landing, Robinson's Island, owned by Eugene 
Robinson, New York, banker and broker, (he broke 
Drew.) This island was purchased last year by W. C. 
McCord, of New York. Johnson's Light, Washburn 
Island and Frederick Island. Mr. Johnson, the original 
light-house keeper, and after whom the island is named, 
was the man who burned the '' Robert Peel," the English 
vessel, in retaliation for sending the "Caroline" over 
Niagara Falls. ■ 

Just before landing at Thousand Island Park, upper 
end of Wells Island, is IVin Island, owned by J. L. 
Huntington. Also Castle " Fannie " Chase owned by 
the Rev. W. Demster Chase, of New York. On the left, 
and in connection with the Thousand Island Park, is the 
bath house, (in a dilapidated condition), where the 
Methodists formerly received baptism, a la Bob Inger- 
soll, with soap. Said to be good for this world, if not 
hereafter. We now land at 

THOUSAND ISLAND PARK. 

The boat stops at the western end of Wells Island, 
at a fine wharf and close to a large number of hand- 
some cottages. You can tell what the place is the 
minute you approach it. There is no mistaking a 
Methodist Summer Camp, find it where you will. It 
is always neat and clean and orderly. This is the 
Thousand Island Park, a Methodist resort, opened in 



82 

iS;^- Although the scenery is somewhat marred by 
the great number of solemn-faced clergymen strolling 
about the grounds, it is still one of the most beautiful 
spots to be found among the islands. Camp-meetings 
are held here : also Sunday school and temperance and 
educational conventions, and other meetings all 
through the summer. A large and spacious hotel was 
opened July loth. iS8^^ The name was originally 
Thousand Island Camp ground, but was changed in 
1878 to its present name. 

Again on our way. the first house on Liie iett is 
owned by Harlow J. Remington, of llion, X. V., 
whose fame and fortune are in rities. Next on the 
left is tine \"iow House and beautiful cottage. On the 
left, handsome villas line the shore of the island. 
About half a mile from Fine View House is Jolly 
Oak Point, with its four cottages, two owned by the 
Norton brothers, a third by Dr. Ferguson, and the 
fourth bv Hon. W . ^\ . Buttertield, of Redwood. , From 
here to Lookout Point is about half a mile ; and next 
is Rood's place, with a fine dock and good accommo- 
dations for tourists. About two hundred yards below 
is Feel's dock, where the boat " Robert Feel" was burned 
in 1857. This dock was rebuilt in 18S4. Robbin's 
cottage, one hundred feet to the left, is Island Blanch, 
owned by E. O. Buckingham : a little below on the 
right is the farm of Captain Jack : you can see the 
old saw-mill in a dilapidated condition on the bank. 
Opposite on the left is the celebrated Limburger 
cheese factory. ^^Fost mortem examinations held 
here weekly.) (I his '^goak '* would take better if you 
were just introduced to Limburger for the tirst time.) 
On the ri^rht is Collins* dock : below, a few feet, is 



C'aluinol Islaiui and cottviiio. owiuhI hy (Oliver II. 
Ciroen, No. 6 C'aluniet court, In^ston, Mass. ()n the 
rit>ht lies the roniains oi old C'aptain Jack's l>oal 
gone to rest. ***••!: Here you are expected to 
drop a tear. Brown's l^av on the let't and Swan I>ay 
on the right. The next island on the right is owned 
by Mr. MotTet oi W'aterlown, N. W Passing the 
bavs. we come on the right to C'entral Park, formerly 
Cirinnell's Point and paraile ground, purchased by 
parties and laiil out for a park. Several largt> and 
beautiful ccUtages were built last season antl many 
contemplated (ov this season. (h\ the left opposite 
on the bluff, is Hill's C'rest, mvned by r.eneral ShieUls, 
of IMiiladelphia, Pa. Voo\ oi Central Park is Page 
Point, a fiMuier wood station for the N. V. Co.'s, line 
of steamers. On the right is 

POINT VIVIAN. 

Point N'ivian is situatcil on the, main slu>re of the 
St. Lawrence River, about tw(^ and one-half miles 
from Alexandria Hay. It was formerly owned by 
Captain \A'. H. Houghton, and was purchased by 
Messrs. Cieorge Ivers, John J. Kinnev, Isaac .\. W Ootl, 
Dr. L. K. J ernes, R. Panics, Re/ot Pozer, and E. 
Hungerford, in the fall oi 1877 (all of Kvans Mills, 
N. v.). Phey had it survcNCtl into forty building 
U>ts, with parks, avenues and streets. A magnificent 
dock was built, two hundred feet long, and any boat, 
from a skiff to an ocean steamer can land here. 

Opposite Point N'ivian on the left is Ishuul Royal, 
owned by Royal K. Heane, of New York, firm of 
Bramall, Deane .S,: Oo. Mr. Heane is a very enthusiastic 
lover of the scenerv as well as the hunting and fish- 



84 

ing in this vicinity, coming to this, his summer home, 
quite early in the spring, and often remaining until 
winter fairly sets in, for nowhere else can he get such a 
variety of fish and game, and have the surroundings so 
agreeable. Next on the left is Shady Covert, owned 
by Editor J. C. Covert of the Cleveland Leader. 

After leaving Point Vivian, on the right is Curtis 
Point and Cottage, which joins Rose Island by a 
bridge. Here is where ex-Mayor W. G. Rose, of 
Cleveland, O., enjoys his summers. The next is Alle- 
gheny Point, owned by J. S. Laney, of Pittsburg, 
Pa. The fence was built to keep the children from 
falling into the river. Opposite on the left is Seven 
Isles, owned by General Bradley Winslow. Next on the 
right is Keppler Point, Bella Vista Lodge, owned by 
F. A. Bosworth, of Milwaukee, Wis. This property 
Bella Vista Lodge, was sold to Mr. R. B. Chisholm, of 
Cleveland, O. Centennial, now Nah-Mahbin, meaning 
Twin Island or Lakes, is owned by Mr. J. H. Oliphant, 
of Brooklyn, N. Y. Comfort, in close proximity, is 
owned by A. E. Clark, of the Chicago, 111., Board of 
Trade. His is the largest and finest cottage of the group. 
Next is H. H. Warner's Island, upon which $50,000 has 
been expended in the erection of his new cottage. 
Beyond this is Hill's Island. This gentleman has 
expended a large amount of money in building a stone 
wall around the same and in many ways beautifying the 
surroundings. Next on the right is Devil's Rock and, 
Oven^owned by H. R. Heath, of New York. On the left 
is Louisiana Point, owned by Judge LeBatte, of New 
Orleans. Next on the left is Craig's Side, owned by H. 
A. Laughlin, of Pittsburg, Pa. On the right is Cuba 
Isle, owned by W. F. Storey, of Buffalo, N. Y. A 



85 

little farther on is Edgewood Park, owned by a Cleve- 
land stock company, who erected an elegant hotel, 
which was opened in 1887, and contemplate many 
changes the coming season ; also Edgewood Cottage, 
owned by G. C. Martin, of Watertown, N. Y. Next on 
the right is Cherry Isle, upon which are erected several 
cottages ; the first is owned by the Rev. George 
Rockwell, of Fulton, N. Y. ; and J. T. Easton's Villa, 
of Brooklyn, N. Y. Mr. Easton, of Brooklyn, erected 
a handsome villa, called Stuyvesant Cottage, which he 
occupied during the season. The two large cottages 
are owned by A. B. Pullman and C. B. Marsh, of Chi- 
cago, III, named Ingleside and Melrose Lodge. Here 
the Hon. John A. Logan and wife were entertained for 
several days in 1885. Opposite, on the left, is Pullman, 
Nobby, Friendly, St. Elmo, Welcome, Florence, 
Linlithgow and Imperial. This group may be seen in 
the order given ; beyond is Westminster Park, Hart's 
Island, Fairy Land and Dishler. We now shoot into 

ALEXANDRIA BAY, 

which is three or four miles long and one and a half 
miles wide, reaching from the shore on the American 
side to Wells Island. The chief feature around here is 
the grand hotels. The Crossmon House, which we have 
everything to say in praise of, will be kept up to the 
first standard of excellence during the coming season. 
The genial host, Mr. Charles Crossmon, will be ever 
attentive, as usual, to his guests, and you can rest 
assured of not meeting that obnoxious class so 
dreaded elsewhere. 

WESTMINSTER PARK. 

Opposite Alexandria Bay on the lower end of Wells 
Island. This island is eight miles long and from three 



86 

to tour miles wido. Chi the other side of this island is 
the C\inadian ehannel of the river, about half a mile wide. 
The lower end oi the island is separated into two 
parts by one of the jM'ettiest sheets of water that ever 
rippled a^i^ainst the bcnvs of a eanoe. This is called 
the "Lake of the Island," and is connected with the 
river on both the American and l\inadian sides by a 
narrow channel. The lake is t"ive or six miles lono-, 
as sntooth as liUiss. and is altogether too pretty and 
too romantic to attempt a description. 

Westminster Park was bouoht in 1874 by a Presby- 
terian stock company, and it now has about 15 mile^ 
o\ drives and some fine buildings. It has two long- 
water fronts — one on the American side of the river 
and the cither on the Pake of the Island, on the Cana- 
dian side. Phere is a high hill on the island called 
Mount Penlah, though after climbing it 1 think the 
Hill Difficulty would be a more appropriate name. 
'Phere is a large chapel on the top of the hill, known 
as Pn^hune Chapel, with seating accommodations for 
a thousand persons, and with a tower 136 feet high, 
(was blown down in jNIarch, 1885,) affording a beauti- 
ful view of the river and the islands. The name of 
the chapel recalls the fact that the late Rev. l>r. Geo. 
\\ Pethune was the pioneer tourist through this 
region, and until his death continued to come here 
summer after summer for recreation. 

BONNIE CASTLE. 

'' Tin\othY Titcomb" [i^v. J. i.'i. Holland, editor of 
Scrid/ters Mcfnthly)^ chose this phice as a haven of rest 
and recuperation, and who does not commend his 
choice.^ It will be remembered that he died in New 



87 

York shortly after leaving- his cherished Bonnie 
Castle in 1881, tor his arduous winter's labors. Next 
is The Ledges, owned by C. J. Hudson, of New York. 
Lighthouse in the distance. 

Liimediatelv opposite is Hart's Lsland ; back of 
which is Deshler. Next on the left is 

MANHATTAN, 

the first island on which liabitation was attempted. 
It was bought bv ^L". Seth Cireen, the fish culturist of 
N. Y., in 1855. He built a cottage upon it and for 
several years spent his summers here. Mr. J. L. Has- 
brouck and judge J. C. Spencer, of New York, pur- 
chased it from him. They have spent SlS'OOo "P^^"' 
the island. ddie original cottages built by Seth 
Green still remain and are used by them as dinmg 
room, etc. Beyond is St. John's Island, owned by 
judge Donohue, of New York. 

Between Deshler and ^Llnhattan, looking" back- 
ward, is Fairyland, owned by C. H. and W. B. Hay- 
den, of Columbus, Ohio. This is really one of the 
finest islands in the river. At a vast expense art has 
triumphed over nature, transforming a barren mto 
the loveliest of green lawns. Next on the left is 
Deer Island ; then 

SUMMERLAND. 

Summerland, one of the nu^st beautiful groups of 
the '' Thousand Islands," is located n-iid-way between 
the north and south channels of the St. Lawrence, 
about three miles below Alexandria Bay, having an 
area of fourteen acres, and is the largest of the " Sum- 



merland group," which includes " Idlewild," "Sport," 
" Ida," and " Arcadia." The island is covered with a 
dense forest (furnishing an abundance of shade) and 
is said to have the finest groves on the river. At the 
extr.eme northerly and southerly ends of the Island 
there are extensive sandy beaches, a great rarity in 
this locality, which are used by the "Summerlanders " 
for bathing purposes. The island is traversed from 
end to end by the most delightful natural avenue, 
densely shaded and lined on either side with a thick 
undergrowth of wild flowers and ferns. The island 
is owned by the Summerland Association, a corpora- 
tion organized under and by virtue of the laws of the 
State of New York. 

Between Deer Island and Summerland is Cedar ; 
back of Cedar is Sport, owned by the estate of H. A. 
Packer, who died in 1884. The island, however, will 
be occupied this year by E. P. Wilbur, who has pur- 
chased the Packers' interest. Anthony Point is on 
the right, owned and occupied by Messrs. E. and H. T. 
Anthony, photographic stock manufacturers and deal- 
ers, 591 Broadway, New York City. Also The Ledges, 
owned by J. C. Hudson, of New York. 

Still continuing our course looking to the right, is 
the cottage of Mrs. Clark, of Watertown. Next, 
Goose Bay is the island owned by Dr. Carleton, near 
which is the Three Sisters' Island ; before the Three 
Sisters' is Hume's Island. Next, on the left, is 
Whiskey, Island, and on the right, opposite, are a 
number of large and small islands, the names of 
which we will not weary the tourist's brain wnth. 

Goose Bay is really beautiful, if its name is slightly 
homely. It is studded with islands and fishing 



89 

abounds. It is here that Mr. Hubert R. Clark, of New 
York, in one day caught some 300 pounds of black 
bass, ranging in weight from 1^4 pounds to 6}4 
pounds. 

On the right is Lyon's dock and Meeker's Island. 
Next, on the left is Three Sisters Light ; in the 
distance is Lone Star, or Dark Island ; Island No. 10, 
it is called by some. After passing, on the left is 
a small cluster of island shoals. On the right is 
Chippewa Bay. This is a superb sheet of water, where 
the fishing is a marked feature. It is a favorite resort 
of Ogdensburg people, who occupy the contiguous 
islands.. This property, "Chippewa Point " and Allen's 
Park and dock, has been purchased by a wealthy 
syndicate who propose erecting a commodious hotel 
and each member building for his own use a hand- 
some villa. I look to see this the grandest resort 
among the Thousand Islands. All around the shore 
are camps, cottages, etc., and make an animated scene 
for the tourist. 

After passing Cross-over Light, and before reaching 
Cole's Light, we come in sight of Union Park. It was 
formerly a Methodist camp ground. It has been pur- 
chased by a Scotch syndicate, who erected a large hotel 
and many pretty cottages. Villas, camps and cottages 
line the shore until we arrive at Gallenas Place. This 
was .built for the purpose of having a resort for '•'■a class " 
I am glad to say do not thrive on the St. Lawrence. 
Places where liquor parties, drunken sprees and such 
like have been started many times on this river, but 
have been short lived. 

Turn Bank Park, formerly McDonald's Point, comes 
next ; Hill's Crest Park, then Jones' Narrows ; Cossitte's 



90 

Agricultural \\\>rks ; ArcCullough ; Jno. F. Wood ; 
Bowie ; Parker Wilkinson ; Cireenmore ; Kincade ; St. 
Lawrence Park and Soldiers' Parade Ground. Then we 
come in siolu oi R. B. Hather's tUnver and fruit farm, 
tiis tine windmill and boat-house on the river bank. 
This gentleman supplies the Thousand Islanders and 
guests at the hotels with (lowers. He is recognized as 
the florist of the St. Lawrence river. A Hather button- 
hole bouquet is cpiite necessary to complete one's toilet, 
and many times has the author of this liook become the 
admiration of many on account of the large bouquet 
which adorned his huge but magnificent physique. The 
next on the left is Smith's Island, owned by R. H. 
Smart, a hardware merchant of Brockville. On the 
main shore bevond is River C\\(\ and man\- [irettv villas, 
including Bav \ iew. Cole's Island on the left, and 
McLean's cottage. Just before reaching Brockville 
is H. A. Field's and Geo. A. Dana's residence 

In front o( Brockville are the last three of- the 
Thousand Islands : being some distance from the rest 
it is presumable they drifted away, and tiiKdly riuUed 
here. This, however, was " long befo' tie wah I" 

Opposite, on the right, is Morristown, a small 
lively American village, of about 1,000 inhabitants, a 
station on the Ttica and Black River R. R., connects 
with Brctckville bv two steam ferries. 

BROCKVILLE 

was named in honor oi Ccnciwl Brock, who fell in 
the battle o\ Queenstown Heights in iSi-\ It is 
situatetl on the Canadian side o\ the St. Lawrence 
River, and is cme of the pleasantest villages in the 
Province. It lies at the foot o\ the Thousand Islands 



oil an elevation of land \vlii(^b vises from the river in 
a suceession of ridg'es. The town was laid out in 
1802, and is now a place of considerable iinpcn-tance. 
The present population is ab(mt to, 000. 

After leavino- the wharf, the boat passes the most 
beautiful cliff on the river, the Palisades of the St. 
Ivawrence, on which are erected maonificent mansions 
and suburban residences and vilhis o( Canada's 
distinguished sons. The most prc^ninent of these is 
the son of Sir Hugh Allen, whose residence is reall}^ 
superb. The sightseer can observe the winding stairs, 
boat and bath lu)uses and other a[)pointments for 
recreation. 

Having left Brockville, a magnificent view greets 
the eye ; islands are not now in view ; the river is a 
most beautiful sheet of water, running perfectly 
straight for about sixteen miles with the land on 
either side in good view, for the river is a little over 
two miles wide. Three miles frcnn JNlorristown, on 
the right, is a camp ground of the Ikiptist persuasion, 
mostly from St. Lawrence County. Five miles on the 
left from Brockville is Maitland. At this point is a 
prominent object known as the old tlistillery, whose 
proprietor is said to have been worth, at one time, 
a million dollars, but whose cupiditv during 
"America's unpleasantness" led him into selling 
''crooked whiskey," or rather disposing of his dis- 
tillery products in a very " crooked " way. Without 
going into the details, the facts in brief are : He 
antagonized the Canadian government in the matter 
of paying revenue, and in his fight for stupid 
supremacy, he not only lost his distillery, but his 
fortune too, and he and his family became reduced to 



92 

poverty, and none of them remain around their 
former home. It is said he first induced his niece to 
marry the revenue collector of the district, that he 
might carry on the nefarious business in collusion 
and without detection, but, you see, 

" The deep laid plans of mice and men gang aft aglee," 

About four miles below, on the left, is the old blue 
stone church, in the graveyard of which rests the 
remains of the founder of Methodism on this continent, 
Barbara Heck. One mile farther, on the left, is 
McCarthy's new brick brewery. Half a mile beyond 
is the celebrated Rysdick stock farm, owned by J. P. 
Wiser, M. P. Here is owned the celebrated stallion 
Rysdick, which cost Mr. Wiser $25,000. It is a farm 
of about six hundred acres, and is unquestionably the 
finest stock farm in the Dominion of Canada. The 
thrift, energy and ability of this gentleman will not be 
wondered at when it is learned that he is of American 
birth. Next, on the left, is the celebrated Labatt's 
brewery and 

PRESCOTT, 

with its 3,000 inhabitants, who seem to have lost their 
grip on the trade of the river, judging from the dilapi- 
dated condition of the stores, warehouses, etc., on the 
wharves. The town, however, is handsomely laid out, 
has a fine city hall and market, and there are many fine 
private residences. It is connected with Ottawa, capital 
of the Dominion, by the Canada Pacific Railroad, St. 
Lawrence and Ottawa Railroad Branch, distance 54 
miles. Here many tourists who desire to visit the 
capital disembark for that purpose. We refer the 
tourist to Daniels' hotel as a good stopping place- 



93 

L. H. Daniels has taken the hotel and spent $8,000 in 
improvements ; he is too well known to the traveling 
public to need any praise from me. Opposite is 

OGDENSBURG, 

founded by Francis Picquit in May, 1749. It now 
contains about 15,000 people, and of course ranks as a 
city. It is the terminus of the Rome and Watertown, 
Utica and Black River, and the Ogdensburg and Lake 
Champlain railroads. It is beautifully laid out, well 
planted with maple trees, and is called the " Maple 
City." It has a United States Custom House, post- 
office, and a new opera house, costing $15,000, six fine 
church edifices, water works, gas works, a fire alarm 
telegraph and two daily newspapers, and possibly other 
modern improvements. Here the Oswegatchie River 
empties into the St. Lawrence ; its waters are of a 
dark brown color. At the lower end of the town are 
the big elevators of the Ogdensburg and Lake Cham- 
plain Railroad, now owned by the Central Vermont 
Railroad. Many tourists start from here in the morn- 
ing, reaching every point in the White Mountains 
before tea time. 

One mile and a half below Prescott on the left, is 
Windmill Point ; the old windmill has been turned into 
a lighthouse. Here, in 1837, the " Patriots," under 
Von Schultz, a Polish exile, established themselves, but 
from which they were driven with severe loss. Mr. C. 
Crossraon, proprietor of the Crossmon House, Alex- 
andria Bay, N. Y., was one of the "Patriots," was taken 
prisoner and for several days took his chances with the 
thirteen selected to be shot, but before his time came 
he was released on account of his tender years, being 



94 

only i6 years old. He is looking hale and hearty 
to-day for one so young. We believe this Von Schultz 
was subsequently hung by the Canadian authorities, 
and his followers banished, probably to New Jersey. 
On the left, a little below the lighthouse, is the residence 
and farm of W. H. McGannon, the oldest pilot on the St. 
Lawrence river, the man who first took the " Passport," 
of the Richelieu line, down the Long Sault Rapids, in 
July, 1847. I am also indebted to him for the correct- 
ness of my New Map of the St. Lawrence and other 
information of benefit to me and the public. 

About half a mile below, on the right, the eye may 
feast on the St. Lawrence State Hospital for the Insane 
in process of erection. About one half a million dollars 
was secured by General Curtis for the enterprise, and 
if carried out as projected, this will be the finest grounds 
and hospital in the country. 

Three miles below, on the left, is Johnstown Bay, 
with Johnstown — not a very important trading post— ^ 
overlooking. This place has a custom house officer, 
commissioner of fisheries, mayor and marshal of the 
district ; but these important officials are concentrated 
in one man. 

We turn here to the right, leaving the far-famed 
Chimney Island on the left, on which are said to be the 
ruins of old French forts, battlements, etc. The only 
remains we have discovered of these supposed formid- 
able defences is an extensive moat around the Island, 
twelve feet deep, filled with water. The chimney, from 
which it derives its name, is supposed to be on the 
island, but we have looked in vain to discover it. It 
may be, however, that it has floated down the river ; 
we will speak of it further on. 



95 

In the distance, on the left, are Tick or Pier Islands. 
Some of the finest bass fishing in the river is off this 
old pier. Dr. Melville, of Prescott, the inventor of 
rheumatic victor, and an enthusiastic fisherman of this 
section, last summer caught a black bass weighing 
seven and one-half pounds while enjoying the sport 
around the pier. 

Three miles from Chimney Island, in the distance, is 
what is termed "the cut," forming the channel between 
Galop and Moore's islands. It was the former channel 
of this line of boats, but the Dominion government is 
expending six millions of dollars for the enlargement 
of the canals of this route, and the survey party at 
present are blasting a channel through the 

GALOP RAPID, 

which may be seen in "the distance. The reason of 
the change of channel is formed with an edict of the 
pilots not to interfere with the work of the engineer 
corps engaged on this necessary improvement of 
excavating a fifteen foot channel, to allow larger 
boats to pass, and dispense with the use of the 
Edwardsburg canal. This is the first and smallest 
rapid on the St. Lawrence river, and as the Phat Boy 
has termed it, " a little one for a cent." I will, how- 
ever, give you an idea of what the rapids are. All 
the rapids on this river are caused by numerous rocks, 
large and small in the bed of the river, and the swift 
current of water passing over these rocks, causes the 
fearful commotion that you observe. Now, to carry 
our philosophy a little farther, we say the larger the 
rock and the stronger the current the better the 
rapids. No rocks, no water, no current, no rapids ! 



96 

This coininotion which you see liere is caused by a 
ledge o\' rocks five and one-half feet in heioht under 
nine feet of water. \'ou can see the swell and white 
cap which this rock occasions, antl then use your best 
iudonuMit to dcteiminc the hcii^iU of the rocks in 
Lons; Sault, where wc hope to arrive at one o'clock. 
(There are, let nie state here, eight rapids on our trip 
to-day, which may be divided into two classes, first 
and second. The first class are bono- vSault, meaning a 
long leap or jump ; Cedar, deriving its name from the 
trees in the vicinity, ami bachine. The second 
class is blalop, meaning a hopping, jumping rapid ; 
Rajiid Plat I, meaning in French, flat ; Chateau du 
ba(\ meaning foot of the bake; Split Rock, derived 
fi-om a fissure which makes the channel, and the 
Cascade, from its resemblance to a cascade.) 

On the left, before arriving at the Galop Rapids, is 
the entrance to the luhvardsburg Ciuiab This canal 
is seven and one-half miles in length, and is the first 
canal wt> arrive at ; its terminus is at Iroquois. It 
would be well here to say that we only have canals 
ari)und the raj^itls, or where the current is too strong 
for a steamer to ascend. We here append a tabular 
statement oi the 

ST. LAWRENCE CANALS. 

I'-dwardsburg canal, 7'j miles hnig, three locks, 14 
feet fall in the river ; Morrisburg canal, 4 miles long, 2 
locks, J 1 'o feet fall ; Karron's Point canal -^4 mile long, 
1 lock, 4 feet fall ; Cornwall Canal, 12 miles long, 
7 locks, 4S feet fall; Beauharnois canal, 11*2 miles 
long, () locks, S4 feet fall; bachine canal, 9 miles 
long, s locks, 4S feet fall. ♦ 



97 

In the distaacc, on the left, is the viHai^'e of lulwards- 
burg, now called Cardinal. Here is located the 
Edwardsburg starch factory, the largest in the 
Dominion of Canada. The president of the company 
is the Hon. Walter Shanley, of Hoosac 'I'unnel fame. 
He was the great contractor who completed that 
wonderful piece of work, and is now manager of the 
St. Lawrence and Ottawa Railroad. 

Twenty minutes from Edwardsburg to the next 
point of interest. 

Distinguished among Indian names is that of 
Iroquois. Here it names a village, formerly known 
as Matilda ; but, like all other good Matildas do, she 
changed- her name to lro(]uois, iii order to preserve 
the name. The Irocjuois Indians formerly owned this 
section of country. One and a half miles below this 
village, is the narrowest point in the St. Lawrence 
River, from Kingston to the gulf. This broad expanse 
of water we are just passing, and the one we arrive at 
immediately after leaving the ]:)()int, are very shallow, 
consequently holds the water in check at the point — 
the depth of water in the shallow places being about 
22 feet, while at the point it is 84 feet. Width of the 
river 1,140 feet — 180 feet less than a (juarter of a 
mile. 

On the right in the narrowest portion of the river is 
Cedar Point. On the left is a small bluff, formerly 
called Hemlock Point, on account of a fine hemlock 
standing there ; but on one fine morning the hemlock, 
the tree and the point all slid into the river, and have- 
not yet returned. About fifteen feet back from the 
point is a rail fence, which is outside of the earth- 
works that were thrown up in 1812-13, and batteries 
were erected on C'edar Point. 



98 

On the left is the main shore of the Dominion of 
Canada, with a population of over six millions. On 
the right is the main shore of the United States of 
America, with a population of over sixty millions. 
When the six millions want the sixty millions all 
they will be obliged to do is to walk over and take 
them. Then will be verified that beautiful passage in 
Holy Writ which says, •' One shall chase a thousand 
and two put ten thousand to flight." Sing ! 

This was really a strong point, and was fortified on 
both sides of the river by the opposing parties. From 
the fact of the successful fortification by the Americans 
the Rideau Canal owes its origin. Guns and stores 
or merchandise could not be taken up the river. It 
was conceived by Colonel By, of the engineer Corps, 
that a new canal would obviate the difficulty, and all 
his resources were immediately put into requisition, 
and the canal was completed at a cost of $5,000,000. 
It extends from Ottawa, formerly By-town, to Kingston, 
and is still in use. 

Ten minutes from here to the next point of interest. 
On the left is the entrance to the Morrisburg -Canal, 
the second canal in the chain, but it is not . used by 
this line of boats. All tows and sailing vessels have 
to use the canals. In the distant front is Rapid Piatt ; 
on the right is Ogden's Island, the finest wooded 
island in the St. Lawrence. Beyond is Waddington, 
St. Lawrence County, N. Y. In front is this rapid we 
have just named ; it is the second one, and is " a little 
one for two cents." It has, however, eight feet more 
descent than the first, but is only a one cent descenter 
rapid. 



99 
MORRISBURG. 

After passing the point, Morrisburg comes into view 
on the left — the prettiest village in the Dominion of 
Canada. Look at its churches, public buildings, 
private residences, and hotels (the St. Lawrence Hall is 
kept by W. H. McCannon & Brothers, and I can say 
cheerfully no better hotel in town), that greet the eye, 
for we are still in the Province of Ontario. At half 
past three o'clock we enter the Province of Quebec. 
You will have a good chance then to compare 
the difference between the two Provinces. Your 
especial attention is called to this now, that you may 
be prepared to scan the change you w411 not fail to 
observe.. Before reaching Morrisburg is Doran's 
Island, which was rented by Mr. Oz Doran of the St-. 
Regis Lidians for one dollar per year, and they come 
every year 60 miles to collect one dollar. A railroad 
bridge was to have been completed at this point 
during the present year. Opposite Morrisburg is 
Dry Island, used for picnics, etc. 

One hour from this point to the Long Sault Rapids. 
We speak of this here, for it is about dinner time, 
and if you are lucky enough to secure a seat at the 
first table you will lose no point of interest, for it is 
presumable you will finish within the hour. 

THE CUISINE ON THE BOAT. 

It will not be amiss here to state that the meals 
were formerly served on the American plan, in the 
upper saloon, and to give you but a faint idea of the 
commotion created by the passengers when there was 
one more person on board .than seats at the table, 
would require a volume ten times this size to describe. 



lOO 

Therefore, please excuse me if I relate by way of 
illustration what an eminent writer said on the sub- 
ject : " The waiters, like little puppets, would bob up 
serenely at any time and place, drop a dish or what- 
ever the hand contained, and were as soon out of. 
sight. This continued for about one hour, while we 
were seated back against the cabin w^all, with just 
space enough for the waiter to pass between us and 
the table. When the signal was given everybody 
made a rush for the table, and if the scene depicted 
could only be described humorously or otherwise, 
I would like to read it." But the writer said it 
reminded him of the famous picture in her Majesty's 
gallery, '' The rape of the Sabines." (I have never 
seen the picture, but presume it is that of a beautiful 
female poised as a central figure, and about ten soldiers 
ready to embrace her on a given signal.) Things 
have changed, however, and this season the meals 
will be served on the American plan, run by the com- 
pany, who have secured the best stewards, etc., to 
superintend the service, to the end that everyone may 
be pleased. The upper saloon will not be used, but 
what was formerly known as the ladies' cabin, and 
the cabin below, has been refitted, containing ample 
table room for everybody, and will be the dining 
rooms ; there have also been added a new kitchen, 
steam tables, etc., which gives the whole saloon as a 
promenade and place of rest and repose for the pas- 
sengers. I am positive the change will be acceptable. 

About a mile below Morrisburg, on the right, is 
Gooseneck Island, so called from its resemblance 
to the neck of a goose ; the upper end is the neck ; 
the narrative is about nine miles lonsf. Five miles 
from Morrisburg to 



'&• 



lOI 



CHRYSLER'S FARM, 

memorable for the battle fought on this ground in the 
year 1813. The Americans were the attacking party 
on this occasion, having arisen early in the morning, 
crossed the river into the little bay, landed and imme- 
diately gone into the contest by attacking the little 
house. The fight was desperate, lasting until eleven 
o'clock, when the Americans, under General Williams, 
were repulsed with great slaughter. The house was 
completely riddled with bullets. It has since been 
torn down and the chimney left as a monument to the 
battle. They retreated in good order, re-crossed the 
river and remained, having abandoned the trip to 
Montreal which they intended. I draw this mild 
because I am one of " God's people " myself. 

Next in interest is Farron's Point, opposite which 
is Croyl's Island. Six minutes from here to Long 
Sault Rapids ; we pass on the left Harrison's Landing. 

LONG SAULT ISLAND. 

At this point there are really two channels, the 
American Channel being on the right of Long Sault 
Island, the rapids forming the Canadian channel, and 
are on the left of the Island. The distinguishing- 
feature about the American channel is, while it is 
swift in current, it has no rapids worthy of note, and 
the channel is used for tows, etc., and all the rafts 
naturally prefer this way, because it would be impos- 
sible for them to go down the Long Sault. 

In the distant front observe a light-house at the head 
of the Cornwall canal. The canal is twelve miles in 
length, and passes around the Long Sault Rapids. 



I02 

The boats are steered from landmarks on the shore, 
b}^ that small ball you see on the end of the pole, which 
is the bow-sprit. The target that you see in the dis- 
tance is used by the pilot to get his position in Long 
Sault Rapids. These targets will be seen frequently 
as you progress, and as they all answer the same pur- 
pose, this reference to them will suffice. 

LONG SAULT RAPIDS. 

Dickinson's Landing, on the left, was formerly a 
very important point on this line, as it was the foot 
of navigation before the canal was completed, some 
forty years ago. Few changes have taken place since, 
that are apparent to the eye. The Long Sault is the 
first one of the first-class rapids, and the third one in 
line proceeding down the river, and as we set a price 
on the other two you can set your own price on this 
one. • A description of these rapids has been given 
from time immemorial ; it does not behoove - us to 
give any graphic or colored description of this scene, 
although we might do so satisfactorily, having seen 
depicted on the countenances of thousands of passen- 
gers who have passed this way everything in nature, 
from the sublime to the ridiculous, as well as between 
the two, and as each individual's feelings differ, no 
one description would do the subject justice. One 
writer said : " It was sliding down hill on a steam- 
boat." Another said he felt as if he was being imgliiedJ 
A third said he felt as if he had takena large dose of 
ipecac. Still another, as if he was on a ship at sea in 
a storm. And yet one more was so exhilarated that 
he imagined he owned Maud S. and would like to 
spend his days on the rapids. Another party who had 



103 

ridiculed the trip a good deal, until the spray began 
to cover the deck, wetting them to the skin, drench- 
ing their store clothes, which, when dried, revealed 
awkward misfits, exclaimed that " it was the grandest 
sight they ever witnessed." 

I could enlarge upon other descriptions, but prefer 
to give the Phat Boy a privilege to relate a few facts 
— no " taffy " All the boats of this line are built of 
Bessemer steel or iron, with three and one-half inches 
of elm riveted close to the iron on the bottom outside 
to prevent accidents if we should strike against a rock. 
This precaution was found necessary, because the 
first iron boat that struck a rock became a total 
wreck. . With the protection of elm no injury has 
resulted from the occasional striking of the boats 
against the rocks. There is no danger, however, in 
this rapid, for the water in the shallowest place is 
thirteen and one-half feet and we are drawing about 
seven feet. During our passage through all the rapids, 
we have four men at the wheel and four men at the 
tiller aft, who assist the men at the wheel. Any acci- 
dent that should happen to the chain or the wheel, the 
pilot immediately goes to the right hand of the tiller. 

The Long Sault Rapid is nine miles long ; three 
miles of boisterous commotion ; six miles of current 
and sudden sharp turns. When we first enter the rapid 
the steam on board of the boat is slowed down until she 
gets her position in the rapids, as she draws less water 
than when under full head of steam. We are then 
compelled to put on full steam as the boat must go 
faster than the current in order to obtain steerage way. 
Many suppose that no steam is used through the rap- 
ids, which is an error. If we were to attempt to go 



I04 

down without any propelling power, we would be at 
the mercy of the current of this stupendous agitation 
called rapids. One couldn't tell which end of the boat 
would be first, and it is presumable that this would be 
anything but pleasant to the passenger, for she would go 
down the same as a log ; no one could tell which end of 
the boat would be first — anything but pleasure to the 
passengers. 

When we first enter this rapid the finest view is 
obtained on the right side of the boat. It is expected, 
however, that the passengers will distribute themselves 
equally on either side to keep the boat in good trim — 
the captain generally uses the " Phat Boy " for this pur- 
pose ; when he is not on board the passengers are 
expected to distribute themselves. The view, however, 
soon changes to the left, and when nearing the point the 
swell and white caps run from seven to eleven feet in 
height. 

We have already explained the cause of the rapids. 
Now, will any one please explain to me what is the 
height of the rocks which create this commotion, and 
at the same time set their price on this rapid After 
passing this point and the swell and white caps that we 
have been describing, on the left is the passage to the 
Canadian channel of this river, which forms Earnhardt's 
Island. On the right is the /Vmerican channel. This 
was formerly used by boats before they came down the 
Long Sault, which for a long time was known as the 
lost channel. This channel having been lost for some 
years, it was discovered by Captain Rankin, who 
recived for that service a magnificent silver watch, the 
value of which at the present day would be about 
$6.50. The first steamboat of this line that passed 



105 

through the Long Sault, was the " Passport" (last year 
the " New Passport " took her place in the line), in 1847, 
and the pilot was W. H. McGanon, who is still in the 
employ of the company. The soundings were made by 
scows and rafts, with poles attached to the sides, of 
8 to 15 feet in length, and as either of these met an 
obstruction and became dislodged or broken off, the 
depth of the water was ascertained and a record made. 
The propelling power of these scows or rafts was oars 
or large paddles, worked by from 10 to 40 men as the 
necessities of each required. 

The steamer "Gill" was the first boat through the rap- 
ids, and went down more by accident than otherwise, 
but it demonstrated the certainty of a channel. 

Earnhardt's Island, on the left, 7^ miles in length 
by ^y^ miles in width, belongs to the United States. 
On the right is the main land, St. Lawrence County, 
N. Y. Both sides of the river for the next seven miles 
belong to the United States. The King of Holland, 
who was the arbitrator of the treaty of 181 2, from charts, 
maps, etc., furnished him, supposed that the main chan- 
nel of the river passed around that island on the left. 
He was mistaken however ; this is the main channel of 
the river, and the only navigable one ; the Canadian 
channel containing only about 3^4 or 4 feet of water. 

During the next eight minutes we pass three very 
sudden turns in the river ; the first turn is to the right, 
then to the left ; next to the right again ; the second 
turn being the sharpest on the St. Lawrence River ; at 
direct angles turning to the left. Passengers on the 
left side of the boat, by looking backward, have a 
fine view of that portion of the river we have just 
passed, and looking forward see where we are compelled 



io6 

to go, and more easily note the sharpness of the turn. 
Rafts enterino- the Anieriean channel at the foot of the 
Long Sault rapids will drift nine miles in forty minutes, 
and are often thrown on shore on either side in making 
this sudden turn. After making our next turn to the 
right, b_v looking in the distance, front, between the 
narrow point, we discover what is known as " The. 
Crab." The current crosses here from right to left, 
then left to right, and from right to left, forming the 
the letter Z. Rafts get entangled in this portion of 
the river, and are easily torn to pieces. 

There is a ferry boat plying between this point, on 
the right, Macenia Point and Cornwall Point on the 
left, touching at two places on Barnhardt's Island, to 
convev passengers who are desirous of visiting 
Macenia Springs, six miles distant. The steamboat is a 
side- wheeler, two horses tread the power that revolves 
the wheels : it is therefore a two-horse boat ; they con- 
vev the steam on board in a bag well tilled with oats. 
The deck hand is the cook ; the cook is the engineer ; 
the engineer is the mate, and the mate is the captain ; 
one man supreme commands : no mutiny ever occurs, 
unless the mule should kick the deck hand overboard — 
that would be a "////////r," would ii not? 

On the left is the entrance to the Canadian channel 
at the end Of Barnhardt's Island.. Two miles below on 
the right is the last of the American shore on the St. 
Lawrence, lat. 45 "^ N. Some few years ago I was pre- 
sented bv one of the tirms in the city, with an American 
llag fifteen feet in length, to designate the last of the 
United States shore on this river. Through the assist- 
ance of a friend at Cornwall, and thirteen dollars in 
cash, I succeeded in getting the flag in position. It 



107 

remained tliere for about ten days, when a party of St. 
Regis Indians, who occupy a reservation six miles dis- 
tant, the other side of the river — four of them came 
over to the point, filled themselves full of " ice water," 
climbed up the flag-staff and took down the flag. They 
cut it u}) nito three or four suits of clothes, and went 
around this vicinity for about a week as full as a boiled 
oyster, singing "Hail Columbia, right side up," rolled 
up in the stars and stripes, full of fire water ; it was said 
to be the happiest moment of their lives, and I have no 
reason to doubt it. On June yth, 1887, I was presented 
by Mr. S. Carsley, the leading dry goods merchant of 
Montreal, with another splendid American flag, and I 
hope when placed in position it may wave until I cease 
issuing this little volume, "and on white wings, etc., etc. 

I'hat portion of the river on the right is the dividing 
line for five miles ; afterwards an iron fence, or posts 
set at equal distance apart, mark the boundary line. The 
river passing around that way forms Cornwall Island, 
about six miles wide. Rafts enter this portion of the 
river where the Racket river empties in, and are here 
refitted preparatory to being towed through the lake. 
Both sides of the river from this point downward belong 
to the Dominion of Canada. 

In the distance, on the left is Cornwall, a village of 
8,000 people, with the largest cotton and woolen mills in 
the Dominion. Since the protective tariff was inaugu- 
rated by the Dominion Parliament, these industries have 
thrived wonderfully, and the town is correspondingly 
prosperous. The large round tower is the water works 
reservoir. Just before landing a fine view is obtained 
of both the old and new Cornwall canals. Looking at 
the old canal lock, and learning its dimensions, it is 



loS 

obvious whv tlio stoamors arc the limit whioli tlie locks 
will ailmit, hence it" ihcy were five feet Ioniser or a tritle 
wider, thev would be compelled to remain at Montreal, 
not beins^ able to work through the locks. The new 
canal which is alongside of the old one. will have locks 
I GO feel Ioniser than the present ones in use, conse- 
quently much larger boats will be able to ply the river. 

I'he old canal was considered amply large when built ; 
it was not supposed that the travel on the St. Lawrence 
would ever rcvich its present and constantly increasing- 
numbers. 

.\fter leaving l\M*nwall. on the right is Cornwall 
Island, six miles wide. Just beyond the Island, on the 
right bvink o( the river, is St. Regis, an old Indian 
village, which cannot be seen fron\ the deck of the 
steamer. lUit there is just one point where the church 
roof can be observed for a moment or so. There is, 
however, a tradition worth relating here : The bell 
hanging in this chiu-ch is associated with a deed of 
genuine Indian revenge. On its way from France it 
was captured by an l\ngiish cruiser vuul taken to Salem, 
Massachusetts, where it was sold to the church at Peer- 
field, in the same state. The Indians, hearing ot the 
destinativMi of their bell, set out for Oeertleld. attacked 
the town, killing forty-seven of the inludMtants, and 
took 11-" captives, among whom was the pastor and his 
family. The bell Wvisthen taken down and conveyed to 
St. Regis, where it now hangs. 

Puring the next ten miles of our trip, the river is 
beautifully studded with islands, and resembles the 

Thousand Islands scenery very n\uch. Many of these 
islands are inhabited : some of them elegantly laid out 
with drives, etc. Rev. Mr. Pickinson's, called after 



109 

himself, has a dock at whii'b steamers of this si/e ci\\\ 
land ; it has a hotc^l, luiinher oi eoltages, ami is ijiiite 
a gay place in summer. On tlu> U>ft side is Sunnners 
Town, beyond whieh is Hamilton's Island. just before 
reaching Summers Town is the I'csidcMu-e {)\ Cajitain 
Cameron, fornu'riy o\ this line; hr\-ond is the magnili- 
cent villa of lb)n. Caribou Cameron, the linest on the 
St. Lawrence. It is built oi Ohio freestone and cost 
$80,000. Hamilton Island, on the left, is occupied every 
summer by camping parties, who come from great 
distances, even from \'irginia and Ohio, and rt'inain two, 
three and even four months. Day aftt-r day, one of their 
principal amusements is rowing out in their small boats, 
awaiting the arrival of the steamers, ami then swiftly 
riding on top of the swell thai is o(H\isioned by the 
wheels of the steamer. The scene is e.vciting a.nd 
l")ictures(pie. On the right we now have a line view of 
the Adirondack Mountains of Northern New York, and 
beyond the Cireen Mountains of Vermont, e.xcept it be a 
smoky or misty day, when the view is slightly obscured. 
It is iifty-six miles from the rivtM" to the mountains, ami 
intervening is the wilderness of the State of New \'ork, 
known as the b^hn Hrown tracU, more famous as the 
hunting ground of adventurous hunting and fishing 
parties. 

Continuing our c\)urse, we i)ass three small islands and 
enter i-ake St. b'raiuMs, twenty-eight miles in length — a 
very picturescpie sheet of water indeed; but the trip 
through the lake is cjuite monotonous, therefore, for the 
next two hours, the guide, as well as the passengers, can 
'' take a rest." This being a favorite route for honey- 
moon parties, there is now two full hours for these 
couples to enjoy the " honey " or the " moon," as seemeth 



no 



to them best. After making this announcement one 
day, fifty-three left the deck ; one, however, was an old 
bachelor, who went to curl his hair. 

In the centre of the lake, on the left, is the village 
of Lancaster, an old Scotch settlement. Just before 
reaching the village, is what appears to be a stack of 
hay, commonly known throughout Scotland as a 
Cairn. It is no more or less than a heap of stones in 
a rounded or conical form, placed in that way to com- 
memorate some especial historic event. This one was 
built by the Glengarry Highlanders in 1847, to per- 
petuate the memory of Sir John Colburn, who was Com- 
mander in Chief of the Army and Governor-General 
of the province. It was built by putting cobble-stones 
one on top of the other— each individual inhabitant or 
stranger passing that way adding a stone. See Queen 
Victoria's Book, where she describes helping to build 
a Scotch Cairn with the assistance of John Brown, and 
one will eet a better idea of how to build a Cairn.' The 
county in which this place is located is named Glengarry, 
and is mainly or almost wholly inhabited by the sturdy 
Scotch Highlanders, whose farms are of the finest in the 
Dominion. This is the last English speaking village 
on the route. 

Passing three lighthouses, showing that the channel 
across the lake is quite intricate, we leave St. Anisette 
on the right, a small French town. We are now 
approaching the boundary line between the Provinces- 
of Ontario and Quebec. The lighthouses on either side 
show the geographical divisions. From the lighthouse 
on the left the line runs straight to the Ottawa River ; 
then the Ottawa becomes the dividing line. Just before 



Ill 

arrivino- at the foot of the hike, where the river re-forms, 
we pass San Zotique ; next C'oieau Laiuhnii', where we 
call for the purpc^se of takino- on a pih)t, 

EDWARD WILLETT, 

whose duty it is to pilot this line o( bixits throu^li the 
next series of rapids, and the Laehine, also through to 
Montreal ; we are now coming- tc^ fcnir raj'tids : first, the 
Coteau ; second, Cedar ; third, Split Rock, and fourth, 
the Cascades. The Canada Atlantic Railroad, runnino- 
from C)ttawa, the capital oi the Oominitin, to C'oteau 
Landing-, the railroad ferry at this point conveys wlu)le 
trains to \'alley Field, where connections are made for 
Boston and New York. A bridge was completed this 
year and the 'Ferry discontinued. The shortest route 
from the capital to those points. On the extreme right, 
at the foot of the lake, is the village of Valley Field. 
It is at the head of Beauharnois Canal, i\)4. miles in 
length, which passes around this series of rapids. The 
river, in ii^ miles, has a fall of 84 feet. The linest 
water power privilege on the continent of America, 
except Niagara, is at this point. The largest cotton 
mill in the Dominion, the Canada Paper Co.'s mill, and 
several other manufacturing establishments are located 
at Valley Field. After leaving St. Francis Lake, we 
re-enter the river. With our pilot we go down the small 
rapid known as the Coteau, passing Prisoner's IsUuul 
on the left, and on the left bank is the old b'rench 
village of C'oteau du Lac. On the extreme left, at the 
point, is an old French fort, where battles were fought 
in 1812 and 1813 ; the earthworks are still in a good 
state of preservation, behind which is the old saw-mill. 
Twenty minutes (or live miles) from this point to the 



112 



Cedar Rapids, then you will " see der Rapid," that is 
a Rapid — the most Rapid Rapid of all the Rapids. 
Opposite the rapid is the village of Cedar on the left 
and St. Timothy on the right, the Cedar Rapid, the 
finest upon the St. Lawrence River. Look at St. Tim- 
othy, bear in mind the view you had of Morrisburg, the 
impression of its beauty and thritt, and now you have the 
comparison. How does the former strike you as against 
the latter ? It is a historic fact, and worthy of note, 
that no matter what town you arrive at in the Province 
of Quebec, this will be apparent to the eye : the finest 
buildings in the place will be the church, nunnery, 
school, hospital and priest's residence. Aside from 
these, the rest are all about alike. You cannot tell the 
palace residence from the blacksmith's shop, or the 
grocery store from the hotel. The church at St. Tim- 
othy has a seating capacity of 1,500 ; the population of 
the village is 600 ; the church is always full on Sundays, 
and as Mark Twain exclaimed, " What large domes 
these worshippers must have to their pantaloons for 600 
to fill a place capable of seating 1,500." But they come 
from all the country around, being all of one persuasion. 
An opposition church is so far unknown in these rural 
parts, hence it may be inferred what the extraordinary 
power of this old church must be in the lower province. 

Speaking to one of the priests one day regarding the 
amount of money collected by them from the poor to 
build and maintain their institutions, I asked him how 
it was, and he remarked that the millions have more 
money than the millionaires, and by getting the dollar 
from the poorer classes they had the million, which the 
millionaires never give up. . 



"3 

Just before arriving at St. Timothy, we enter the 
Cedar Rapid and pass a distance of three and one-half 
miles in the extraordinary short time of seven minutes. 
By casting your eye shoreward, while passing an island 
on the left, and just before we enter the heaviest part 
of the rapid you will discover how fast the boat is going. 
Looking to the right, you will see Hell's Hole and the 
greatest commotion in the river from Kingston to the 

Gulf. 

Leaving Cedar Rapid, which is the most picturesque 
and beautiful (in our estimation) of all, two and one- 
half miles farther along, and passing Bockey Hayes' 
shoal, which is a peculiar formation in the bed of the 
river, making navigation somewhat dangerous. In 
illustration : one day the steamer "Corsican" suddenly 
lurched to the left, and evidently struck a rock ; where- 
upon the captain said to the pilot, " Edward, you are a 
little too far over to the left." Before he could com- 
plete the sentence the boat lurched to the right and 
struck another rock ; then the pilot replied, " Yes ; and 
a little too far over to the right side." It is plain that 
the channel about here is at least precarious. The gov- 
ernment engineers, however, are now at work removing 
these dangerous obstructions. The Napoleon hats you 
see in the distance, on poles about ten feet high, are the 
marks which enable the pilot to obtain his true bear- 
ings through the shoal. Turning to the right, we come 
in sight of the Split Rock Rapid, the most dangerous 
rapid of all. When we speak of danger, we don't mean 
to life or limb, as no person was ever injured on this 
rapid ; it is danger to property that we refer to, as this 
is the only one of the series that has cost the company 
one dollar. They lost one steamboat here, and have 



114 

had others upon the rocks. On the 8th of July, 1874, 
the steamer "Corinthian," of the R. O. N. Co., when 
passing the Split Rock Rapid, was almost instantly 
enveloped by a terrific thunder shower, accompanied by 
a hurricane. The wind was so powerful that the boat 
refused to answer the helm, and instead of turning to 
the right, as she should, the wind caused her to go 
straight ahead, and we struck a rock forward about five, 
feet high and passed fifteen feet aft of the wheel over 
the same, and then stopped. I was upon the right 
hand side of the boat explaining to the passengers and 
showing or pointing out to them the ledge of rock 
when she struck. Immediately four ladies caught 
hold of me (whom they thought was the boss life 
preserver). What a position for a nice young man. 
I was about to exclaim as my friend A. Ward did when 
he was surrounded by 20 of Brigham Young's wives, " I 
hope your intentions are honorable." However, 
through the assistance of some friends, I procured life 
preservers for them and was released from my some- 
what precarious position. In a space of an hour most 
of the passengers were landed by the aid of the ship's 
boats and bateaux from the shore, and proceede'd by 
rail to Montreal, where they arrived the same evening. 
I remained on board all night until a derrick was 
erected and two of the boats lashed together, and a 
platform built upon them, when I was let down by the 
aid of the derrick upon the same, and without further 
trouble taken to shore in safety. The second line of 
white caps which you see in the distance in front, is the 
Split Rock, a ledge of rock running from shore to shore, 
with the exception of a break of about sixty feet, 
which is a natural split in the rock. Formerly there 



115 

was only a depth of nine feet of water ; it was blasted 
out and now gives a navigable channel of thirteen and 
one-half feet. Passengers, by looking into the water 
on the right side of the boat, can see the ledge we 
have been talking about. 

One and a half miles from here to the Cascade, the 
last of this series of four, and the last but one on the 
river— the Lachine being the last. The Cascade differs 
from all the rest, being a cutting, choppnig sea, in 
which the boats are wrenched more than in any other 
rapid. On the right is the village of MelocheviUe, at 
the foot of the Beauharnois Canal, eleven and one-half 
miles in length, that passes around this line of rapids. 
The boats of this and all other lines are compelled to 
pass through this canal, as none of them could ascend 
this line of rapids. 

We are now thirty miles by water and twenty-four 
miles by land from. Montreal. In the distance in front, 
is Mount Royal, or Montreal mountain. The park 
mountain drive, the most famous drive in the world, 
is up the brow of the mountain through a park. On the 
left is II Perot Island, formed by the two channels of 
the Ottawa. The one we now see comes by St. Anne's, 
where Moore wrote his famous Canadian boat song. 
A resident of St. Anne's, Lieutenant-Colonel Dowker, 
says that every spring the freshets of the Ottawa cause 
the water to come down into the St. Lawrence with 
with such force as to form an eddy to pass up the 
point of the island and down the navigable channel of 
the Ottawa, and he can take a pail from his house, 
Chateau Blanc (where the famous poet Moore resided 
while at St. Anne's and wrote his Canadian poems), 
proceed down to the river and dip up a pail of pure. 



ii6 

clear St. Lawrence water. Meeting Colonel Dowker, 
he told me that the freshets of the Ottawa in March 
and April, 1885, were the most alarming and disastrous 
ever known. The sudden breaking up of the ice 
caused a jam. Houses were moved from their founda- , 
tions, cattle and sheep crushed to jelly by the ice and 
many drowned ; the ice piled mountains high. The 
government had an agent in the vicinity relieving the 
distressed inhabitants. The heavy flow of , ice by the 
freshets in the Ottawa caused a jam a little below 
Montreal in the year 1887, consequently flooding the 
city, causing much damage to life and property. The 
oldest church in the upper Province and old forts are 
to be seen here. 

On the left a portion of the Ottawa empties into the 
St. Lawrence. This is not, however, the main channel; 
the navigable portion of the river is just the other side 
of II Perot. Note the difference between the color of 
the two waters ; they are as wide apart as green is 
from purple. The water of the Ottawa is of a" dark 
brown color, caused by passing over low, marshy, peat 
bed soils, and the huge forests through which this river 
passes, the leaves falling and rotting, and swept along 
by the freshets, doubtless dye the water to the peculiar 
color observable. The waters of the two rivers do not 
readily mix, and each are distinct for many miles. 

In the distance is Lake St. Louis, or Lachine Lake, 
15 miles from the rapids to the foot of the lake, where 
we arrive at Lachine, on the left, and Caughnawaga on 
the right. The latter is the residence of the Indian 
pilot, St. Jean Baptiste, who discovered the channel and 
took this line of boats down the Lachine Rapids for 
over forty years. 



117 

About half way through the lake on the right we 
come to Nun's Island. That mound or elevation of 
ground which you see was a fort in 1812, and English 
and American warlike parties met in sanguinary contest 
around here. It commands the entrance to the Cha- 
teaugay River. The village of Chateaugay is six 
miles back. The Nun's Island belongs to the Gray 
Nuns, of Montreal, who have a hospital for their own 
sick, and the spot is marked by a large cross, 
emblematic of their order. 

Fifteen minutes from here we are in sight 
of Caughnawaga, where we formerly took on board the 
Indian pilot, who has become of historical interest to 
tourists, as it was he who discovered the channel and 
took the first of this line down, August 19, 1840, and 
has been in the employ of the company ever since. He 
is 75 years old, weighs 240 pounds, and stands 6 feet 
high. I am sorry to say that on account of age, the 
company were forced to retire him, and his brother-in- 
law will take the boats through the Lachine rapids this 
year. Many of the passengers imagine he is the only 
pilot who can take a boat through Lachine Rapids. 
This is not correct for we have other pilots who can ; 
but as he is paid for this especial service they resign 
most cheerfully in his favor. He has never had an 
accident and the company believe in holding to that 
which is good, and therefore " stick to the old man." 
It was his custom to emerge from shore in a small boat 
accompanied by his two sons. They row him to the 
steamers ; he comes on board and the boys row 
home again. He remains on board till the next morn- 
ing, takes the first train for Lachine, where he is met by 
the boys, who take him home in a row boat. The 



ii8 

Indian pilot's name is St. Jean Baptiste de Lisle; his 
Indian name, Ta ys. ka, meaning in the U. S. language 
that "he will cross the river," but he does not ; he 
goes down the rapids. He has a family of six children, 
three boys and three girls. The girls are unmar- 
ried. I state this for the benefit of the young 
men on board, as the Indian pilot says he wants a "heap 
Yankee " for his girls. I am engaged to my Mary- 
Jane, and they can't have me. 

A description of Caughnawaga would not be 
amiss. Note the line of palatial residences along the 
bank beyond the church, the windows and doors 
kicked out to give them light and air, the palace gar- 
dens in the front part of the back end of the house. 
The laundry of Caughnawaga is usually hung on the 
fence ; it is not wash day to-day, as you can perceive. 
The bath-room is the whole water-front, but it is seldom 
used. The water-works is that barrel on the shore. 
The fair damsel waving her lily white hand is Mary 
Jane, my best girl. She comes out every day to wel- 
come me, as she thinks I am on board. You can 
get her eye and have a flirtation, the same, as I 
have had for years, and not make me jealous. That 
large brick structure is the centennial building, built 
during the centennial year by the celebrated Indian 
Chief, White Kicker. I think they used him to kick 
the windows and doors out of the palatial residences 
previously spoken of." 

Caughnawaga, signifying " Praying Indian " (my 
friend Ben Butler says they spell it with an e), is well 
laid out for an Indian village, with a population of 
900, all Indians ; no whites can live here. 

The finest crops raised in this section of the country 
are raised just below Caughnawaga. They raise them 



119 

with a derrick. It is a blasted crop, however, and of 
no use until it is. This notable quarry is where most 
of the stones come from for the construction of the 
locks in the new Lachine canal — the entrance to which 
is at Lachine, the village just passed at the foot of 
the lake, on the left. 

THE VILLAGE OF LACHINE 

is a favorite resort for Montrealers in summer. The 
inhabitants number about 2,000, but it is frequently 
augmented in the season to 9,000 or 10,000. Note 
the large buildings, which are the church. Villa de 
Marie Convent, the School and University for the 
education of priests. 

Our pilot being on board, he will now show his 
Injin-uity in piloting a boat down the Lachine 
Rapids. ■ Before reaching the rapids the tourists can 
see the aqueduct that supplies the city of Montreal with 
water. 

THE LACHINE RAPIDS 

differ from all the rest ; it is simply an intricate 
channel through rock. Take your position upon either 
side of the boat and you will know when we come to 
the most important point, as the boat will be headed 
direct for a little island, which is nothing more nor 
less than a few loads of dirt upon a huge ledge of 
rock. Keep your eye upon the bow of the boat and 
you will be led to exclaim, " why, we are going to 
strike the island ;" and if you are a betting person or 
a truthful one, you would almost swear we could not 
help but strike ; but when within less than ten feet, 



T20 



we make a very sndden turn to the right, with a 
grand pitch or lurch, in which you will think the 
boat drops ten feet. We pass alongside of a 
ledge of rocks for about half a mile, to see which 
you must be upon the right hand side of the boat ; at 
the end of this ledge of rock we have a perfect 
miniature Niagara, a little water-fall for a cent. Do 
not allow the lurching of the boat from side to side, 
to cause you any uneasiness, as there is no danger, 
because a side wheel boat has guards from four to ten 
feet projecting over on each side from the hull, 60 to 
90 feet long, so that when that flat surface strikes 
the water by lurching, that is as far as she can 
go, therefore, will always righten herself immediately. 
I have had a great deal of sport in this way. When 
the boat had lurched over as far as she could, I would 
immediately exclaim : " Oh ! I am on the wrong side," 
and proceed to the high side, when the boat would 
immediately righten up and the passengers would 
think I did it, but she would have rightened without 
my aid. Yet I have heard some very strong-minded 
women, after seeing the effect of my moving to the 
high side of the boat, exclaim : " Put that big man 
off ; he has too much weight to be upon a boat in the 
rapids." This is the last rapid built on the St. Law- 
rence, you can have it the best one if you like and I 
will not quarrel with you for it. All I ask you to do 
is to stop at the hotels who advertise in my book and 
tell them I was the cause of your visit, and if they 
do not treat you well I will proceed to sit down 
upon them, not mentally, but physically, and they 
will neyer have occasion to treat any one else badly. 
Passing the foot of the rapids, a first view of Montreal 



121 



on the left, and on the right is the village of La 
Prairie. The first mountain on the left is Mount 
Bruno ; second, Bellisle ; the third, St. Pie. The next 
and last sensation on the trip is p^issing under 

VICTORIA BRIDGE, 

the largest and longest tubular bridge in the world, 
was built by Mr. Stephenson in i860 for the Grand 
Trunk Railroad, by which it is owned and controlled. 
It is a mile and three-quarters of iron, two miles and a 
quarter with its approaches from shore. It is wholly 
of iron, top bottom and sides — an iron tunnel or box, 
as it were. There are twenty-four abutments, built 
wedge shaped (to crush the immense ice fields that 
pass through this section, which, previous to the 
building of the bridge, did immense damage to 
Montreal during the spring freshets. There are no 
such things as freshets on the St. Lawrence, the 
Ottawa flowing in some miles above causing such 
disasters), upon which rest the sections of iron. The 
spans are from 250 to 360 feet long each, and the 
center span is about 60 feet high. The bridge tubes 
are 16x22 feet. It contains no wagon road or foot 
path, and is used by the G. T. R. and its connecting 
lines. The cost of this immense work was $6,250,000, 
about one-half of which amount went to fatten the 
contractors. I was not one of them. I mention this 
on account of my size, and for fear some one might 
think I was wealthy. The bridge is constructed of 
sheets of iron with a two-inch edge turned up and 
riveted to each other. It is fastened to the center, 
loose on both ends on rollers, and is provided with 



122 

a sliding- track, so that there is no danger by expan- 
sion or contraction to passing trains. It expands 
and contracts from three and one-half to seven 
inches. The bridge is kept in thorough repair and 
well painted. The small holes, or perforations in the 
sides of the bridge, were originally intended to convey 
the smoke out, but found inadequate for that purpose ; 
therefore they caused to be erected a line of flues the" 
whole length. Now if any -smoke remains it is 
carried out in a hand-basket. The two movable 
scaffolds you see are used by the workmen in 
repairing and painting. It is not a draw bridge, and 
as we pass under the center span and not over it, you 
need not remove your hat if you remain on the deck. 
After passing under the bridge you will have a magnifi- 
cent view of 

MONTREAL HARBOR. 

The points of interest in the harbor will all be 
described to you as we pass over St. Lambert's shoal, 
a very dangerous passage, previous to landing at the 
Quebec boat, where we transfer such passengers as 
desire to visit Quebec. The island you see front on 
the right is St. Helen's Isle, used by the citizens of 
Montreal for pleasure, picnic parties, etc. A ferry 
plies between the city and island every half hour, 
from morning until 7 p. m. On Sunday from 3,000 
to 20,000 persons visit the island, mostly French 
Canadians, three-fifths of whom comprise the popu- 
lation of Montreal. In the distant front on the left 
is the oldest church in Montreal ; to the left of that, 
the largest building with the dome, is the "Bonsecour 
Market and old City Hall, The new City Hall is 



123 

that large building in the rear with the dome in the 
center and four columns — one in each corner. 
Across the road to the left, that long building, is the 
Court House. At the head of Jacques Cartier Square 
is a magnificent column erected to the memory of 
Admiral Lord Nelson. At the foot of the square 
lies a steamer of the Richelieu & Ontario Navio-ation 
Company. There are two steamers on this line, 
notably the "Montreal" and "Quebec." This company 
owns twenty-one side-wheel boats. The Quebec line 
has the largest boats that float the St. Lawrence 
River ; they will compare favorably with the boats of 
the. Sound or the Hudson River — triple-decked palace 
boats, built of Bessemer steel ; one has a capacity of 
360 state rooms — the other 280. The distance to 
Quebec is 180 miles, and the fare on this line is only 
$2.50— the cheapest on the continent. Beyond, on 
the left, the two massive towers you see belong to 
the French church of Notre Dame. It is not a 
Cathedral, but simply a parish church. (The Cathe- 
dral is on Dominion Square, in process of erection, 
and when complete, will be one-half the size of St. 
Peter's at Rome). It is the largest on the continent, 
and has contained within its walls, front porch and 
stairways, on the 24th of June (St. John's Day), 
twenty-two thousand souls. Beyond is the Custom 
House, with the clock in the tower, and still further 
up, the examining warehouse of the Custom House, 
as well as the office, docks and steamers of the Allen 
line. The first stop is at Quebec boat ; passengers for 
Montreal remain on deck, as this line is compelled to 
enter the first lock in the Lachine canal ; the ofates 
close and the water is allowed to enter, which raises 



1.24 

the boat to the level of the dock, when the passengers 
are allowed to depart. Montreal is the commercial 
metropolis of the Dominion, with a population of 
160,000, three-fifths of which are French Canadians. 
The docks, piers, wharves, etc., of Montreal are the 
finest on the continent. It is the second city of com- 
mercial importance, New York being first. Six 
steamship companies leave here weekly for Europe 
during the summer season, and a large amount of 
business must of necessity be done, as its channel is 
closed during five months of the winter. The water 
front is all lighted with the electric light, so that 
work is carried on during the summer months night 
and day. On top of the revetment wall was built 
last season a dyke or strong barricade ten feet high ; 
it serves as a check to the water during the spring 
freshets to prevent the overflowing and damage of 
the sudden rise of previous years. Having selected 
your hotel and arrived at the same, our next duty 
will be to see the sights of 

MONTREAL. 

It is situated at the head of navigation for ocean 
vessels, 540 miles from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on 
the Island of Montreal, which lies between the two 
great rivers of the North, the St. Lawrence and the 
Ottawa. The island is about 32 miles in length, 
and at its widest some ten in breadth ; it is so fertile 
as to be called the garden of the Province. The 
surface of the land is level, with the exception of the 
eminence of Mount Royal, which rises 550 feet above 
the river level. Mount Royal gives the name to the 
city which lies at its base. The settlement of the 



125 

town was originally determined by the first explorer, 
Jacques Cartier, in 1535, at which time an Indian 
village, Hochelaga, occupied the spot. The perma- 
nent founding of the place, however, did not occur 
until 1642, and in one hundred years of growth there- 
after it gathered a population of 4,000. It was under 
French rule until 1760, when it passed into the hands 
of the British. In 1832 the cholera raged in Montreal 
with great violence, carrying off 1,843 inhabitants in 
a population of about 30,000. In April, 1849, ^ 
political mob burnt the Parliament buildings, which 
were erected on McGill street, and the seat of Gov- 
ernment was, in consequence, transferred to Quebec, 
thence to Toronto, and finally to Ottawa, where it 
remains. In July, 1852, a destructive fire laid waste 
a large portion of the city, burning no houses and 
consuming property valued at $1,400,000. Notwith- 
standing these reverses, the city recovered, and to-day 
numbers a population of 160,000. Years of industry 
and enterprise have produced growth and improve- 
ment in Montreal, such as but few American cities 
can. boast of, and perhaps one — Chicago — has exceeded. 
At the beginning of the present century, vessels of 
more than 300 tons could not ascend to Montreal, 
and its foreign trade was carried on by brigs and 
barges. Now ocean steamships of over 6,000 tons, 
the floating palaces of the Richelieu & Ontario 
Navigation Company, and ships from 700 to 6,000 
tons from all parts of the world, occupy the wharves 
of the harbor, which are not equaled on this continent 
in point of substantial construction, convenience and 
cleanliness. The old part of Montreal, near the 
river, has narrow, incommodious streets ; but the new 



126 

growth of the city toward Mount Royal has been 
liberally laid out, with wide and cheerful thorough- 
fares. The architecture here is very fine ; the material 
chiefly used is a zinc-colored limestone, extensively 
quarried three miles from the city. The public 
buildings, banks and principal warehouses are solid 
and handsome enough to adorn a European capital. 
The great wealth of the Roman Catholic Church has 
enabled it to erect many magnificent churches, hos- 
pitals and convents, always in a very massive and 
enduring style. Other denominations seem to have 
been excited by emulation, and vie with each other 
in the beauty and elegance of their places of worship. 
Among the evidences of the French origin of the city 
are to be noticed a few curious old buildings to be 
found lingering here and there about Jacques Cartier 
Square, or occupying sites on the eastern part of the 
river front. The old houses are built somewhat like 
fortifications, and have heavily vaulted cellars, wherein 
treasure might be stored or a defense made against 
hostile foes, in the days when Indians and whites, 
French and British were fighting and plundering- each 
other. The French Canadians in the city continue still 
to be a little more than half the population, and, although 
their language here has not been unaffected by the 
constant intercourse with English-speaking people, it is 
not as commonly supposed, di patois, but such French as 
was spoken by the polite and educated in France, when 
the emigrants who first settled Canada left the shore of 
their mother-land. The naming of many of the streets 
of Montreal after saints and holy things, reminds one 
that its founders were not exiles nor adventurers, but 
enthusiastic missionaries. • 



127 



PLACES OF INTEREST. 

The Post Office is built on St. James street, the chief 
thoroughfare of this city, opposite the New St. Lawrence 
Hall. The reason why I use the word new may be 
asked. Well, the hotel has been newly refitted, the 
corner building purchased, one hundred elegant and 
commodious rooms added, with baths and closets, elec- 
tric bells and elevators, ladies' reception room, new and 
elegantly furnished suites of rooms added. The old 
proprietor, Mr. Hogan, pronounced by connoisseurs to 
be the best landlord in the Dominion, has assumed the 
proprietorship and has associated with him as manager, 
Mr. Samuel Montgomery, the best choice that could be 
made, as he is an American from the Pacific slope, 
where they know how to keep a hotel. I therefore 
cheerfully recommend you to stop at the new St. 
Lawrence Hall during your stay in Montreal. Starting 
from there, it being the center, every point of interest 
is within fifteen minutes' walk of this hotel. The first 
building to the left is the new Post Office, recently 
finished, with a richly decorated exterior, and every 
internal improvement which modern ingenuity has 
devised. Adjoining it is the Bank of Montreal, in the 
Corinthian style of architecture, with a sculpture on 
the pediment depicting native Indians, a sailor and 
settler with the emblems of the arts and trade. The 
corporation occupying this noble building is the richest 
one of the kind in America. It has branches in every 
town of importance in the Dominion, and has offices in 
New York, Chicago and London. It issues letters of 
credit on all parts of the world. Its capital and reserve 
fund amount to fi8, 000,000. Adjoining it is the 



128 

Imperial Fire Insurance Co.'s new building. Crossing 
the street, on the left hand corner, in process of erection, 
is the commercial building of the New York Life 
Insurance Company. Adjoining are other banks, 
having their offices on Place d'Arms, — the Jacques 
Cartier, Ontario, Quebec and National Banks. On the 
south side of the square, the great parish church of 
Notre Dame looms up. The dimensions of this vast 
Norman edifice are 225 feet in length and 134 in width. 
Its towers are 220 feet high ; the western one contains 
the largest bell in America, "Gross Bourdon," in weight 
29,400 pounds. The seating capacity of the church is 
10,000. It has recently been decorated in deep colors 
and gold, after the manner of the St. Chappelle at 
Paris. An elevator was added making the tower easy 
of access to visitors. Suspended over the western 
gallery, and near the grand altar, is an immense wooden 
crucifix. This was brought from France two centuries 
ago, and first set up in the church built on the ground 
now Place d'Arms. Adjoining Notre Dame is the 
venerable Seminary of St. Sulpice, with its old gateway, 
courtyard and clock. The gentlemen of this seminary 
originally held valuable rights affecting the entire 
island of Montreal ; much of the land yet remains in 
their hands. With the wealth thus brought to their 
coffers, they have liberally established and conducted 
manv institutions of charity and education scattered 
throughout the city. We are now on Notre. Dame 
street, formerly the chief retail street in Montreal. 
Turning eastward a few feet from Notre Dame church, 
on the left, 167 1, J. *S: E. McEntyre, merchant tailors. 
They make all my clothes and have for the past seven- 
teen years, therefore if they can fit me, further com- 



129 

ments are unnecessary. A little above is Lanthier & 
Co. Let us go on, we shall soon arrive at the Court 
House, a fine Grecian building of simple and massive 
appearance. A few steps further on the right brings 
us to Nelson's monument, setting forth in bas-relief 
the various victories which the great naval hero won 
without the loss of a single British ship. This monu- 
ment is in Jacques Cartier Square, at the foot of which 
is the wharf of Quebec steamers. 

Keeping on Notre Dame street, directly beside the 
monument, we find opposite to each other two buildings 
which form a sharp contrast. The one on the left 
is the new City Hall, a lofty and ornate specimen of 
French architecture ; facing it is the ''old chateau," a 
structure probably thought very fine a century ago, 
when Benjamin Franklin set up in it the first printing 
press ever used in the city. Now the old place is a 
Normal school, and the discoveries of the illustrious 
American are explained there, and let us hope his witty 
sayings repeated and acted upon. We can now take 
our way to the river side, and a block from Jacques 
Cartier Square shall find Bonsecours Market, a vast 
substantial Doric structure. Here, if it be market day, 
we may see a little of the French Canadian peasantry, 
clad in their homespun, and bargaining about their 
fowls, or eggs or butter, with many queer words and 
phrases now almost forgotten in t!ie Normandy, whence 
they were first brought. Next to the market is Bonse- 
cours Church, a rough-cast building with a high pitched 
roof, and with a breadth of a few feet adjoining it, occu- 
pied by cobblers and cake shops. This church is the 
oldest Roman Catholic one in the city ; its entrance is 
at the farther side ; rarely is it unoccupied by some 



T30 

worshippers from the adjacent market, who bring in, 
w^ithout ceremony, their baskets and bundles. Sus- 
pended over the altar is a model of a ship in bright tin, 
in which usually burning tapers are placed. Returning, 
on the water-front, we note the ships and steamers 
from Liverpool, Glasgow, London, Havre, Rotterdam 
and other ports ; and on the right successively pass the 
Custom House, a triangular building, with a clock 
towxr ; the office of the Allen line, also having a clock, 
and the fine building of the Harbor Commissioners. 
Next to it is a curious looking pile, with external hoist- 
ways from top to bottom ; this is the Customs Exam- 
ining Warehouse. Before we leave this vicinity, we 
shall glance backward at the street from Allen's office 
to the Custom House. 

Taking a short journey, still upon the river front, 
w^e come to the great works of stone-masonry, which 
give to Montreal an enlarged canal to Lachine, so 
that vessels of much greater tonnage than the ones 
at present used may be employed in the grain trade. 
This enterprise is one of a series of canal improve- 
ments by which Canada strives to retain and increase 
its business as a highway for the shipment of western 
produce to the sea-board. 

Retracing our steps, we take the wide street running 
up from the city, _ McGill, and mark the fine ware- 
houses that adorn it. Arriving at Notre Dame street, 
a little above, on the left, John Murphy & Co., who 
invite you to inspect their stock, styles and prices. 
Adjoining is Mr. S. Carsley, who occupies the six or 
seven stores in succession. Something should be said 
here relative to Mr. Carsley 's establishment, which is 
admitted to be the finest as well as the largest 



in Canada. In doing so I shall not speak of the 
man but of the sterling features adopted as a guide 
in the past, which gave him prosperity and success. 
To secure the finest and best goods, fresh from the 
factories or trade-centers, this establishment has its 
principal house in London, Eng., as well as a resident 
buyer there. It also selects four of the best judges of 
goods required for the home market, who go to the 
trade-centers of Europe two or three times each year 
with "carte blanche" to make any purchases required. 
The imported as well as the domestic goods are all 
marked in plain figures, so that each purchaser may 
know the price ; therefore a child can buy as well 
as a grown person. I cheerfully request you to visit 
this model establishment and inspect the styles, 
goods and prices, and if you do not make a 
purchase it will be because you will receive so 
much for your money that you will be afraid you 
cannot carry it home. Retracnig our steps back to 
McGill street, we turn to the right, -and immediately in 
front, just one block, is Victoria Square, which contains 
a statue of the Queen, by Marshall Wood. Corner St. 
James street, opposite, on the left, is the Albert Build- 
ing. Turning to the right we enter St. James street. 
The first building of note on the right is the Ottawa 
Buildings ; on the left is J. J. Milloy, the tailor, 
where tailor-made suits for ladies are a specialty. 
A little further on the right is G. W. Clark, the 
Souvenir Palace, where, if you enter, the sight of 
such rare curiosities and splendid souvenirs will cause 
you to wonder how you got in without a ticket ; and 
a little above is Drysdale & Co., where cheap English 
reprints of all the popular American authors may be 



132 

had. This is the largest book store in Canada. A little 
opposite on the left is R. Sharpley & Sons, No. 225, 
their new store ; you are cordially invited to see 
and inspect their new stock. "Alexander's " is a little 
above, where is kept a first-class restaurant, confec- 
tions, " bon-bons," etc., and you can be served with 
the best the market affords. On our way to the 
Post Office, from whence we started, at the corner 
of St. Peter street is the Mechanics' Institute. This 
building contains a good library, the admission fee 
to which is only nominal, and a very good reading room, 
having on its tables the principal dailies of America, 
the London Times, the Glasgow Herald, the Dublin 
Warder, the Edinburgh Scotsman, and all the weeklies, 
monthlies and quarterlies of both England and the. 
United States. Strangers can have free access to this 
reading-room, for the period of two weeks, by applying 
to Mr. Hogan, the proprietor of the new St. Lawrence 
Hall. Opposite to the Mechanics' Institute is the 
Merchants Bank, built in modern Italian style, with 
polished granite columns at the entrance ; the interior 
of this bank should be seen ; the main office is carried 
up two stories in height and is beautifully frescoed. 
Diagonally across the street is Moulson's Bank, also of 
Italian design, and richly decorated. We are now 
nearly at the hotel again, where we may conclude 
for the present our inspection of the city. 

Resuming our sight-seeing, we shall now leave behind 
us the business streets, and take our way to the 
upper part of Montreal. Our suggestion is, to take 
St. James street to the first crossing on the right as you 
leave the hotel, St. Peter street. After two blocks this 
street changes its name to Bleury street. At No. 17 



Bleiiry street, we may enter Notman's studio, a large 
handsome building entirely devoted to photographic 
art. Here we may spend half an hour very pleas- 
antly in looking over views of Canadian scenery, 
and portraits taken singly or skillfully grouped, 
representing the sports and pastimes of our winter. 
The chief of these pictures is that which shows a car- 
nival held at the Victoria Skating Rink eighteen 
years ago, when H. R. H. Prince Arthur was present. 
This distinguished representative of Royalty was sta- 
tioned in Canada when quite a youth for two or three 
years — during: his absence has won the title of Duke, 
married a Princess and during the early part of June, 
1890, paid Montreal a visit where he was right royally 
received. Mr. Notman photographed the Duke and 
Duchess in several styles of his art, and remarked to 
me that the interview was the pleasure of his lifetime. 
The photographic marvel spoken of above, with others 
now surrounding it on the walls of Mr. Notman, 
attracted great attention and admiration at the Cen- 
tennial Exhibition. Mr. Notman was photographer to 
the Exhibition and received its highest awards. 

Continuing on Bleury street, we soon reach, on the 
left, the Church of the Jesu, with' St. Mary's College 
adjoining it, conducted by the Jesuit Fathers. This 
church is modeled after one of the same name at 
Rome, where the remains of Loyola are entombed. 
The style of architecture is the round Roman arch. 
The interior is one of the most beautiful among 
American churches. Over the high altar is a fresco of 
the crucifixion. In the southern transept the sufferings 
of the first Canadian martyr, burnt by savages, are 
depicted. Leaving the elegant house of prayer, we 



134 

shall continue on Bleury street until we come to St. 
Catherine street. A few steps bring us to the Nazareth 
Asylum for the Blind, attached to which (No. 1091) is 
a most ornate chapel, decorated in such a lovely man- 
ner as to lead one to suppose that it was done to 
encourage the suffering inmates of the asylum to see. 

Next building on this side of the street (No. 1097) 
is the Roman Catholic Commercial Academy, a lordly 
monument of wealth and munificence, containing all 
the modern appliances for the practical training of 
youth, and presided over by an able staff of professors. 
If we keep going eastward on St. Catherine street, we 
pass on St. Dennis street the immense parish church of 
St. James, with the tallest spire in the city. Near by is 
the new church which is dedicated to Notre Dame De 
Lourdes ; water and relics from her shrine at Lourdes, 
in France, are for sale m the basement. Adjoining the 
church are its conventual buildings. 

Returning on St. Catherine street, we soon come 
to Christ Church Cathedral (Church of England) 
unquestionably the most beautiful specimen of Gothic 
architecture in Canada. It is of a cruciform design : 
its extreme width is 100 feet. The spire, which is 
entirely of stone, rises to the height of 2.24 feet. 
The materials of construction are Montreal limestone 
and stone from Caen in Normandy, which latter, by 
exposure to the weather, has changed from almost pure 
whiteness to a yellow tint. On the grounds .of the 
Cathedral are erected the residences of the bishop and 
his assistants, the Synod Hall, and also a fine monu- 
ment to Bishop Fulford, the first Metropolitan of 
Canada. The street running on the farther side of the 
Cathedral is University Street, and No. 82, one block 



135 

distant, is the Natural History Museum, containing a 
good Canadian collection. University Street leads us 
down to Dorchester street, on the corner of which is 
the St. James Club House. On the opposite corner is 
the Free Fraser Library Building.. Taking Dorchester 
street eastward, we pass on the left St. Paul's Church 
(Presbyterian). On the same side we soon have a view 
of the vast proportions of the new St. Peter's Roman 
Catholic Cathedral. 

Across the square on which St. Peter's is building, we 
notice a beautiful church, St. George's (Church of 
England), and adjoining it is the Sunday-school, the 
largest and best conducted in Canada. On Dorchester 
street, fronting Dominion Square on Peel street, is the 
Windsor Hotel. A little below on- Windsor street is the 
new depot of the Canada Pacific R. R., the largest and 
grandest in Canada. Next beyond on Dorchester street 
is the Victoria Skating Rink, where immense carnivals 
are held in the winter — the grandest in the world. In 
the summer the spacious edifice is used for concerts, 
walking matches, public gatherings, meetings, etc. 

Two blocks distant is the foundling hospital of the 
Gray Nun, a visit to which is thus described : " A long 
procession of the nuns marched slowly into the chapel 
and knelt in prayer. Each nun had a crucifix and a 
string of beads attached, and whatever may have been 
the case with their thoughts, their eyes never wan- 
dered, notwithstanding strangers were gazing at them. 
Some were young and pretty, others old and plain, but 
the sacred character of their labor of love invested 
them all with beauty. We said the eyes of none wan- 
dered. Perhaps we ought to confess that the quick, 
sharp glance of one, apparently younger than the others. 



136 

stared at us for a moment ; but it was only curiosity — 
womanly curiosity — and what woman has not the curi- 
osity to look at me ? Yet that moment was fruitful of 
thought, and as we saw the sad, dark-eyed beauty rise 
in her place and mechanically follow her more staid 
sisters, our mind went back to the days of chivalry, 
when gallant knights rode with lance at rest, or wielded 
the heavy battle axe in heroic deeds that they might 
win recognition from the proud ladies who looked down 
upon them. And as we thought, it seemed that the 
most gallant deeds that men of this nineteenth century 
might do, would be to rescue young and pretty nuns — 
who wanted to be rescued, from the silence and sadness 
of the nunnery." Again, on our way, we are arrested 
by an immense structure even larger than the institu- 
tion just passed ; it is the Montreal College, which 
educates ecclasiastics, and also day pupils, and is under 
the care of the Sulpician fathers. Two Martello towers 
in front of the college are relics of the times, when 
incessant strife raged between the settlers and the 
Indians. Sherbrooke street is adorned with the private 
residences of which the citizens of Montreal are proud, 
and in your drive around the town, previous to or after 
returning from Park Mountain drive, it will repay one 
to drive through Sherbrooke, Dennis and Dorchester 
streets. The McGill College, University and spacious 
grounds are the next points. 

As we pass along Sherbrooke street, in the distance 
we observe, as we glance up St. Famille street, the 
enormous Hotel Dieu, with a large, bright dome, a free 
hospital for all, under Roman Catholic direction. 

Returning to the post office, preferably by Beaver 
Hall Hill, we shall not fail to be struck by the number 



137 

of handsome churches erected there together. On the 
right is the Unitarian church ; on the left, successively, 
a Presbyterian, Baptist and a Jewish Synagogue. Near 
by, oh Craig street, is a towered building occupied by 
the Young Men's Christian Association. 

We are soon at the new St. Lawrence Hall, and 
before mentioning the drive that may be taken outside 
the city, it may be well to call attention to a few places 
near at hand a business man or student may be inter- 
ested in visiting : The Corn Exchange, foot of St. John 
street, the Merchant's Exchange, St. Sacrament street, 
the office of the Telegraph Co. and the Open Stock 
Exchange, St. Francis Xavier street. Near the 
beginning of St. James street, on St. Gabriel street, 
is the Geological Museum, open daily from lo to 4, 
containing an admirable collection of North 
American minerals, and many interesting fossils. 
Here may be seen what many geologists regard as the 
most primitive record of life, the Eoxoon Canaddense^ 
first noticed at Perth, Ontario, by a Mr. Wilson. From 
the fact that the oldest fossil bearing stratum, 
the Laurentian, is the backbone, geographically, of 
Canada, and because of the great variety of rocks 
found in the immediate vicinity of Montreal, this 
museum is particularly attractive to a lover of science. 
An effort is on foot to deprive the city of this collection, 
and, for the sake of centralization, remove it to Ottawa. 
I offer this as an apology in case it should be removed. 

DRIVES. 

As I have said two or three times, by far the most 
pleasant drive is up the brow of Mount Royal, called 
the Park Mountain drive. There are, presumably, two 



roads ; the shorter returns by McTavish street, the other 
by Bleury. The park was laid out by Mr. Olmstead 
the designer of Central Park, New York, whose achieve- 
ments there were recognized by a statue adorning one 
of the entrances. The river view from Mount Royal is 
delightful, and must be seen to be appreciated. I dare 
not attempt to describe it. A suggestion of how to get 
a hundred pictures of every conceivable shape or form 
of landscape views, containing mountain, plain, river, 
lake, hillside, valley, etc., etc., is to close the eyes, place 
the hands on each end of the forehead, and every time 
the carriage moves a hundred feet open the eyes, and 
you have an entire new picture. Keep this up until you 
have had an elegant sufficiency of view. The next drive 
is around the mountain, and was the best until the com- 
pletion of the Park mountain drive ; it is pleasant and 
attractive, when it includes a drive to the Catholic and 
Protestant cemeteries, giving a view of the monuments 
and tombs. The drive to Lachine is next, and is of 
interest. The drive to Longue Point, along the St- 
Lawrence in the opposite direction to the last, gives us 
an entirely different kind of scenery. It takes us through 
the village of Hochelaga, the terminus of the new rail- 
road, the Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa & Occidental, which 
runs along the north shore of the St. Lawrence, and 
develops tracts of country as yet unbenefited by the 
iron horse. About a mile from the depot is the beauti- 
ful convent of the Sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus 
and Mary. Many young ladies from the United States 
have been educated at this convent. The next note- 
worthy building is the Lunatic Asylum. This immense 
house, containing nearly 300 maniacs, idiots and 
imbeciles, is controlled by the Sisters of Providence ; 



139 

these ladies, with the exception of six guardians for 
desperate characters, and a physician, have sole charge. 
They find no trouble in the care of the numerous inmates, 
and by their kindness and tact restore mental balance, 
in all the cases where cure is possible, in a tithe the time 
it used to take in the old days, when the insane were 
treated with harshness and cruelty. On our way to 
Longue Point, the village of Longueuil, Boucherville 
and Varennes lie on the opposite bank of the river. The 
drive to the Black River is an attractive one, and with 
citizens the most attractive of all ; the beautiful convent 
of the Sacred Heart is' situated here, and its grounds, 
finely laid out, lead directly to the water's edge. The 
bridge which spans the river at this place— a branch of 
the Ottawa— affords one of the characteristic sights of 
Canada, the piloting of a raft through a tortuous chan- 
nel. The size of an ordinary raft, its great value, from 
$100,000 to $300,000, the excitement of the captain and 
his French and Indian crew, with the constant perils 
■ threatening the whole structure, all 'conjoin to made up 
a scene to be dwelt upon and long remembered. Thus 
hoping the same will be said of your visit to Montreal, 
I shall advise all to visit 

QUEBEC. 

Tourists can either take the Grand Trunk, the North 
Shore, or the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Co.'s line 
of steamers. Tickets can be procured of the company's 
agents opposite the new St. Lawrence Hall building, 
where staterooms, etc., may be secured. I assume that 
the river is the route selected, and that the reader is 
fairly on his way to that ancient city and former capital. 
Passing a group of islands below Montreal and the 
mouth of the Ottawa River, we soon arrive at 



I40 



SOREL, 

forty-five miles below — the first landing made by the 
steamer. It was built upon the site of a fort built in 
1755, by M. De Tracy, and was for many years the 
summer residence of many successive Governors of 
Canada. Five miles below, the broad expanse of the 
river is called 

LAKE ST. PETER, 

which is about nine miles wide. The St. Francis River 
enters here. Large rafts are observed here slowly float- 
ing to the great mart of Quebec. 

THREE RIVERS 

is situated at the confluence of the Rivers St. Maurice 
and St. Lawrence, ninety miles below Montreal, and the 
same distance above Quebec. It is one of the oldest 
settled towns in Canada, having been founded in 16 18. 
It is well laid out and contains man}^ good buildings, 
among which are the Court House, the Jail, the Roman 
Catholic Church, the Ursuline Convent, the English and 
Wesleyan Churches. The population of Three Rivers 
is about 9,200. 

BASTICAN 

is situated on the north shore of the river, one hundred 
and seventeen miles below Montreal. It is the last place 
the steamers stop at before reaching Quebec. It is a 
place of little importance. 

In passing down the St. Lawrence from Montreal, the 
country upon its banks presents a sameness in its general 



T4T 

scenery, until we approach the vicinity of Quebec. The 
village and hamlets are decidedly French in character, 
generally made up of small buildings, the better class of 
which are painted white or whitewashed, with red roofs. 
Prominent in the distance appear the tile-covered spires 
oif the Catholic churches, which are all constructed in 
that unique style of architecture so peculiar to that 
church. 

During your stay in Quebec stop at the St. I.ouis 
Hotel, and if carriages are desired the hotel will furnish 
the same. This was made necessary in order to stop the 
imposition that is practiced by outside parties. N. B. — 
Fur Department and Indian Bazaar, St. Louis Hotel, 
Quebec. Tourist are invited to visit the Fur Wareroom 
adjoining the Ladies' Parlor, containing one of the 
largest and most valuable stocks of furs in Canada at 
moderate prices. Ladies' sacques, caps and muffs, etc. 
J. C. King, Supt. There are four splendid drives laid 
out for the visitor and tourist ; a neat little pamphlet 
descriptive of the same, entitled, "Views of the City of 
Quebec," will be given you by asking the clerk, Mr. 
J. H. Phillips, or the news agent, of the St. Louis Hotel. 
They are instructed not to give them "/;r<?," unless you 
say I sent you for one or show them this notice. 

CITY OF QUEBEC. 

Quebec, by its historic fame and its unequal ed scenery, 
is no ordinary or commonplace city, for though, like 
other large communities, it carries on trade, commerce 
and manufactures ; cultivates art, science and literature; 
abounds in charities, and professes special regard to the 
amenities of social life, it claims particular attention as 



142 

being' a strikingly unique old place, the stronghold of 
Canada, and, in fact, the Key of the Province. Viewed 
from any of its approaches, it impresses the stranger 
with the conviction of strength and permanency. The 
reader of American history, on entering its gates or 
wandering over its squares, ramparts and battle-fields 
puts himself at once in communion with the illustrious 
dead. The achievements of daring mariners, the 
labors of self-sacrificing Missionaries of the Cross, and 
the conflicts of military heroes, who bled and died in the 
assault and defence of its walls, are here re-read with 
ten-fold interest. Then the lover of nature in her grand- 
est and most rugged, as in her gentler and most smiling 
forms, will find in and around it an affluence of sublime 
and beautiful objects. The man of science, too, may be 
equally gratified, for here the great forces of nature and 
secret alchemy may be studied with advantage. Quebec 
can never be a tame or insipid place, and with moderate 
opportunities for advancement, it must become one of 
the greatest cities of the New World in respect to learn- 
ing, art, commerce and manufactures. 

The city of Quebec was founded by Samuel de Cham- 
plain, in 1608. In 1622 the population was reduced to 
fifty souls. 

In June, 1759, the English army under General Wolfe 
landed upon the Island of Orleans. On the 12th of 
September took place the celebrated battle of the Plains 
of Abraham, which resulted in the death of Wolfe and 
the defeat of the French army. A force of 5,000 English 
troops, under General Murray, were left to garrison the 
fort. The city is very interesting to a stranger ; it is 
the only walled city in North America. 

Cape Diamond, upon which the citadel stands, is three 
hundred and fortv-five feet in height, and derives its 



143 

name from the (luantity of crystal mixed with the granite 
below its surface. The fortress includes the whole space 
on the Cape. 

Above the spot where General Montgomery was killed, 
is now the inchned plane, running to the top of the bank; 
it is five hundred feet long, and is used by the Govern- 
ment to convey stores and other articles of great weight 
to the fortress. 

THE CITADEL 

will, perhaps, prove the point of greatest interest to 
many, from the historical association connected there- 
with, and from the fact that it is considered an impreg- 
nable fortress. It covers an enclosed area of forty acres, 
and is some three hundred and forty feet above the river 
level. The zigzag passages through which you enter 
the fortress, between high and massive granite walls, 
are swept at every turn by formidable batteries of heavy 
guns. On the forbidding river walls and at each angle 
of possible commanding point, gunS of heavy calibre 
sweep every avenue of approach by the river. Ditches, 
breast-works and frowning batteries command the 
approaches by land from the famed "Plains of Abraham." 
The precipitous bluffs, rising almost perpendicularly 
from the river three hundred and forty feet, present a 
natural barrier which may be swept with murderous fire, 
and the covered ways of approach and retreat, the 
various kinds and calibre of guns, mortars, howitzers, 
and munitions of war, will be viewed with eager interest. 
Among the places of note may be mentioned the Plains 
of Abraham, with its humble monument marking the 
place where fell the illustrious Wolfe ; the Governor's 
Garden, with its monument to Wolfe and Montcalm ; 



144 

the spot where fell the American general, Montgomery; 
St. John's Gate, the only gate remainhig of the hve that 
originally pierced the walls of the city ; the Roman 
Catholic Cathedral, with its many fine old paintings ; 
the Episcopal Cathedral ; the Esplanade, from which is 
one of the finest views in the world ; Houses of Parlia- 
ment ; Spencer Wood, the residence of the Lieutenant 
Governor, Laval University, cvic., t\:c. 

The city and environs abound in drives, varying from 
five to thirty miles, in addition to being on the direct 
line of travel to the far-famed Saguenay, Murray Bay, 
Kamouraska, Gacouna, Rimouski Gaspe, and other 
noted watering places. 

Quebec can minister abundantly to the tastes of those 
who like to fish, yacht, or shoot. Yachting, in fact, has 
become of late the leading recreation in Quebec. You 
can on those mellow Saturday afternoons of August and 
September, meet the whole sporting and fashionable 
world of Upper Town on the Durham Terrace or Lower 
Town wharves, bent on witnessing a trial of speed or 
seamanship between the '' Mouette," the " Black Hawk," 
the " Wasp," the " Shannon," the " Bonhomme Richard," 
and half a score of crack yachts, with their owners. 
' Let us see what the city contains: — First,. the west 
wing, built about lycSy, by Governor Haldimand, to 
enlarge the old chateau burnt down in January, 1734 ; 
this mouldering pile, now used as the Normal School, is 
all that remains of the stately edifice of old, overhang- 
ing and facing the Cul-de-Sac, where the lordly Count 
de Frontenac held his quasi regal court in 1691 ; next, 
the Laval University, founded in 1854, conferring 
degrees under its royal charter ; the course of study is 
similar to that of the celebrated European University of 



N5 

Lou vain ; then there is tiie (Hiebec Seminary, erected 
by Bishop Laval, at Montmorency, in 1663 ; the Ursuline 
Convent, founded in 1836 by Madame de la Peltrie ; this 
nunnery, with the Roman Catholic Cathedral, which was 
built in 1646, contains many valuable paintint^s, which 
left France about 1789; the C.eneral Hosj^ital, founded 
two centuries aj^'o by Monseigneur de St. Vallicr; in 
1659, it was the chief hospital for the wounded and the 
dying of the memorable battle of the 13th September ; 
Arnold and his Continentals found protection against 
the rigors of a Cimadian winter behind its walls in 
iyy^_6; the Motel Dieu Nu)inery, close to Palace Cate, 
dating more than 200 years back. 

As to the views to be obtained from Durham 'I'errace, 
the Clacis and the, Citadel, they are unique in grandeur. 
Each street has its own familiar vista of the sur- 
rounding country. 

THE SHRINE AND FALLS OF STE. ANNE. 

At the distance of about twenty miles below Quebec 
is the village of Ste. Anne de Beaupre, sometimes 
called Ste. Anne du Nord, and always called La Bonne 
Ste. Anne, to whom is consecrated the parish church, 
erected about four years ago by the Pope into a shrine 
of the first order, in which is a fine painting by the 
famous artist LeBrun, Ste. Anne and the Virgin, pre- 
sented by M. de Tracey, Viceroy of New France, in 
1666, to the church, for benefits received. 'Hie festival 
day of this Saint is the 26th of July, at which time 
thousands of pilgrims proceed not only by steamer and 
carriage, but on foot, to this holy shrine ; many walk 
the whole distance from ()uebec to the church as a 
penance, or in performance of vows. The church is a 



146 

new building, the old one having been found too small 
for the accommodation of the crowds of pilgrims who 
resorted there. In it are placed thousands of crutches, 
left by those who departed after being cured of the 
lameness and other maladies by the Bonne Ste. Anne, 
whose praises are world wide, for hither congregate 
daily thousands of pilgrims from all parts to be cured 
of their infirmities. Deposited in the sanctuary is a 
holy relic, being a finger bone of the saint herself, on 
kissing which the devotee is immediately relieved of 
all worldly ills and misfortunes. Wonder begins and 
misbelief vanishes on gazing at the piles of crutches ; 
there one beholds unmistakable evidence of the 
unlimited medicinal powers of the mother of the 
Virgin. Daily are the proofs of this power ; the 
stranger can see with his own eyes the decrepid, the 
halt, the sore, the lame, the wounded carried into the 
holy sanctuary and depart therefrom, after kissing the 
holy relic, cured and whole. Many are the scenes here 
witnessed of the despairing filled with renewed hope, 
and the feeble and faint glad again with strength and 
health. Countless are the anecdotes of the hopelessly 
blind and lame returning to their friends with sight and 
firm limbs, leaving behind them their bandages and 
crutches. Incredulity vanishes before such evidence, 
and the sceptic leaves the shrine of Ste. Anne with con- 
victions deeply settled in his soul. Within three miles 
of the village are the Falls of Ste. Anne, which con- 
sist of seven cascades, one of which rushes through 
a narrow chasm, which can be leaped by one of strong 
nerves and sinews, but powerful as Ste. Anne is, and 
devoted as she is to miracles, it is doubtful whether 
even she could save the unfortunate who misses his 
leap. 



147 

The fishing. above and below the Falls is very good 
for both salmon and trout, and the scenery of that 
wild description generally characteristic of the Lauren- 
tian ranges. 

MONTMORENCY FALLS 

are seven miles below Quebec. The road is very 
pleasant, passing through the French village of 
Beauport. Those who expect to see a second Niagara 
will be somewhat disappointed, as far as volume is 
concerned. The stream descends in silvery threads, 
over a precipice 265 feet in height, and, in connection 
with the surrounding scenery, is extremely picturesque 
and beautiful, but does not inspire the awe felt at 
Niagara. On June 8, 1887, with some friends we paid 
this delightful place a visit, and were entertained by the 
hotel proprietor, Mr. T. Bureau, in royal style, which, 
after the tramp over all the grounds and down the 
three hundred and sixty-five steps with the thermometer 
85° in the shade, will always be retained as one of the 
grandest spots in memory. 

POINT LEVIS, 

on the other side of the river, opposite Quebec, will 
interest the stranger very much, immense and stupen- 
dous fortifications being in process of erection. Most 
tourists visiting Quebec pay the Saguenay a visit. 
The ticket office of this line is opposite the St. Louis 
Hotel, where my genial friend, Mr. R. M. Stocking, or 
his assistant, Mr. Henry Harris, will cheerfully impart 
any inform. >tion required, he being the agent for all 
railroads and steamboats in Canada or that connect 
with the same in the United States. 



148 

TO SUMMER TOURISTS. 

Visit St. Lawrence Hall Caconna. This elegant and 
spacious hotel, situated at the beautiful and fashionable 
Canadian Watering Place on the Lower St. Lawrence, 
one hundred and twenty miles below Quebec, opposite 
the mouth of the far-famed Saguenay River, opened 
for guests June 15th, under the management of an 
American of hotel fame, who for many years has 
been connected with the leading hotels in the United 
States. 

RIVER SAGUENAY. 

To the pleasure-seeker or to the man of science, 
there can be nothing more refreshing and delightful, 
nothing affording more food for reflection or scientific 
observation, than a trip to that most wonderful or rivers, 
the Saguenay. On the way thither, the scenery on the 
Lower St. Lawrence is extraordinarily picturesque ; a 
broad expanse of water, interspersed with rugge'd soli- 
tarv islets, highly cultivated islands, and islands covered 
with trees to the water's edge, . hemmed in by lofty 
and precipitous mountains on the one side, and by a 
continuous street of houses, relieved by beautifully 
situated villages, the spires of whose tin-covered 
churches glitter in the sunshine, affords a prospect so 
enchanting that, were nothing else to be seen, the 
tourist would be well repaid ; but when, in addition to 
all this, the tourist suddenly passes from a landscape 
unsurpassed for beauty into a region of primitive 
8:randeur, where art has donenothinsr and nature everv- 
thinor • when at a sing^le bound, civilization is left 
behind and nature stares him in the face, in naked 



149 

majesty : when he sees Alps on Alps arise : when he 
floats over unfathomable depths, through a mountain 
gorge, the sublime entirely overwhelms the sense of 
sio^ht and fascinates imagination. 

The change produced upon the thinking part of man, 
in passing from the broad St. Lawrence into the seem- 
ingly narrow, and awful, deep Saguenay, whose waters 
leave the sides of the towering mountains, which almost 
shut out the light of heaven, is such that no pen can 
paint or tongue describe. It is a river one should see 
if only to know what dreadful aspects nature can 
assume in wild moods. Compared to it the Dead Sea 
is blooming, and the wildest ravines cosy and smiling ; 
it is wild and grand, apparently, in spite of itself. On 
either side, rise cliffs varying in perpendicular height 
from 1,200 to 1,600 feet, and this is the character of the 
River Saguenay from its mouth to its source. Ha I Ha ! 
Bay, which is 60 miles from its mouth, affords the first 
landing and anchorage. The name of this bay is said 
to arise from the circumstances of -early navigators pro- 
ceeding in sailing vessels up a river of this kind for 
60 miles, with eternal sameness of feature, stern and 
high rocks on which they could not land, and no 
bottom for their anchors, at last broke out into laughing 
Ha I Ha ! when they found landing and anchorage. 

This wonderful river seems one huge mountain rent 
asunder at some remote age by some great convulsion 
of nature. The reader who goes to see it (and all ought 
to do so who can, for it is one of the great natural 
wonders of the continent,) can add to the poetical filling 
up of the picture from his own imagination. 

This beautiful trip is easy and facile of accomplish- 
ment as new and magnificent boats, rivaling in luxuri- 



ousness with any in our inland waters, run regularly to 
Ha ! Ha ! Bay, on board of which the pleasure seeker 
will experience all that comfort and accommodation 
which is necessary to the full enjoyment of such a trip. 

To the foregoing descriptions we append an extract 
from the letter of a writer in the Buffalo Commercial 
Advertiser^ who has apparently gone over the '' ground" 
with much satisfaction. Speaking of the great pleasure 
route he says : 

"There is probably no route in the known world 
presenting more attractions to the tourist than that 
from Buffalo to Montreal and Quebec, via Lake Ontario 
and the St. Lawrence River ; presenting, first, the visit 
to the great Cataract, next. Lake Ontario, the River 
St. Lawrence, and the romantic scenery of the ' Thou- 
sand Isles ; ' then the sublime rapids, increasing in 
grandeur, to the great culmination of the ' Lachine 
Rapids,' and finally finishing with the beautiful scenery 
of and around the falls of Montmorency, at Quebec, 
and down the Saguenay — all combine to make up more 
of the wild, romantic and sublime than can be found in 
the same number of miles and almost any travelled route 
in the known world." 

Returning to Montreal for our trip down Lake 
Champlain and Lake George, to Saratoga, Albany, New 
York and Boston, as most of the tourists have tickets 
to these destinations, the routes need only be mentioned. 
The Delaware c*v: LIudson Canal Company Raili-oad, 
and Central Vermont have ticket offices in Montreal, 
where information is courteously dispensed by obliging, 
gentlemanly clerks at all times. It would be useless 
here to print the time tables of the different roads, as 
changes occur too often for such information to be reli- 



able. As you are supposed to be quartered at the new 
St. Lawrence Hall, which is in the heart of the city, and 
contains the Grand Trunk Railroad and Delaware & 
Hudson Canal Company offices, where at all times may 
be found Mr. W. H. Henry, the Delaware & Hudson 
Company's genial Agent for the Dominion of Canada, 
directly opposite is the Central Vermont office, presided 
over 'by A. C. Stonegrave, any time-table required is 
easily obtainable ; also adjoining is the office of the 
Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company. 

BLUFF POINT, 

one hundred sixty-four miles from Albany, and 53 
miles from Montreal, is the most sightly point on Lake 
Champlain. The new and elegant Hotel Champlain, 
with its spacious grounds, unrivalled views and superb 
appointments, is situated on this commanding promon- 
tory. The bluff is about two hundred feet above the 
lake, and the view from the hotel includes about fifty 
miles of the lake and the Green and Adirondack 
Mountain Ranges. There are 363 acres in the hotel 
grounds, mostly wooded, which have been laid put in 
walks and drives. The hotel is 400 feet long, having 
an average width of about fifty feet and a central width 
of about ninety feet. This immense and costly struct- 
ure is surmounted by three towers, one at each end, and 
a Central tower 125 feet high. 

It is intended that the " Champlain " shall be the 
model summer hotel of its kind. The house and its 
furnishings are of the highest class, and every conven- 
ience that can conduce to the pleasure and comfort of 
its guests, has been provided. Such has been the rapid 



152 

growth in popularity of Lake Champlain that the open- 
ing of this fine home for summer pleasure seekers sig- 
nalizes an era of interest in this incomparable region 
that has placed its shores in the first rank of summer 
resorts. Trains on J). & H. Co. R. R. leave Montreal 
every morning and afternoon, when passengers, who 
have tickets by that line can stop over at Bluff Point 
Station, and visit the grandest and best of all the 
Northern Adirondack Hotels, just opened this sea- 
son, Hotel Champlain, and resume their journey when 
desired. 

Leaving Montreal in the morning, by taking the first 
train on the Delaware *S: Hudson Canal Railroad, if- 
you wish to make Hotel Champlain, Lake George, 
Saratoga or Albany, the same day, your tickets may 
read Lake Champlain Co. Steamers, but it is all the 
same — boat and rail belong to the same parties. Should 
you desire to take 1-ake Champlain, leave Montreal in 
the afternoon and go to Bluff Point or Au Sable Chasm, 
via Port Kent, remain over night at Lake View 
House, taking the boat at 8 a. m., from there to Fort 
Ticonderoga, and then down Lake George, or proceed 
on the train in the morning or by boat. By getting off 
at Port Kent, changing cars to the Keesville, Au Sable 
Chasm cv Lake Champlain Railroad, you will soon 
arrive at Au Sable Chasm Station. The busses in 
waiting will convey you to the Lake View House, where 
"mine host," W. H. Tracey, will see that all your wants 
and desires are satisfied. 1 had the pleasure of passing 
over the above railroad in June last, and must confess 
it quite a novel ride, with very picturesque scenery. I 
am the heaviest Director of this road, weigh three hun- 
dred and thirty pounds — Direct hundreds of passengers 



153 

every year to pass over it. Hope the (ieneral Passen- 
ger Agent, A. W. Boy n ton, will note this, so 1 will not be 
obli.ged to count the ties next September when I return 
to visit Au Sable Chasm. Therefore, it may be said if you 
desire to make both lakes on the same day, you are 
compelled to leave Montreal in the afternoon, and go 
to Au Sable Chasm via Port Kent, and remain over 
night at the Lake View Hotel, which will be found to 
be an excellent house, taking the boat in the morning. 
If tickets read by the Central Vermont Railway, you go 
to Burlington, where you arrive for supper, and as the 
boat does not leave until nine o'clock in the morning, 
you have plenty of time to see that beautiful city before 
the leaving of the boat; at any rate you won't have to 
rise as early as you would if you were at Blattsburg. 

MY FIRST VISIT TO AU SABLE CHASM. 

x\s long as anything shall remain green in my memory, 
T feel confident it will be the impression of that charm- 
ing view and grand natural spectacle, Au Sable Chasm. 

Arising early in the morning, if not with the lark, a 
very good second in the race, I was invited by the man- 
ager of the Lake View House to visit the chasm. 
Accepting the same, we proceeded through the gate 
and down the steps which I did not stop to count ; 
but the number was sufficient for a man of my weight, 
and as large bodies move slowly, I was behind the 
rest of our gay, hilarious party, because I remained 
to drink in the beauties my eyes were feasting upon- 
Reaching the end of the chasm, where we take the 
boat for the rapids, I did not have confidence to pro- 
ceed the rest of the journey with my companions (as 



154 

I felt I was too large a crowd for the boat), but, return- 
ing as I came, which very few people do, I was more 
impressed by the grandeur of the scenery — more than 
going down. Returning to the hotel some hours after 
my party, I had stories to tell that caused many of 
them to return and make the trip that I had. If there 
is any view on earth that will please you, it is the one 
obtained from any point at the Lake View House, Au 
Sable Chasm, looking at Lake Champlain and the Green 
Mountains of Vermont on one side, and the Chasm or 
Adirondacks on the other. 

Before the completion of the railroad, boats left 
Rouse's Point, on Lake Champlain, and a train left 
Montreal to connect ; but as the route on Lake Cham- 
plain has been discontinued from Rouse's Point to 
Plattsburg, really the most picturesque part of the trip 
down Lake Champlain being cut off, most of the tour- 
ists take the rail in the morning from Montreal and can 
pass through Lake Champlain by rail, or stop over if 
but a short time at Bluff Point station on D. & H. Co. 
R. R., and visit the grand " Hotel Champlain " where 
all the steamers on the Lake land and receive passen- 
gers every regular trip. The rail passing close along 
the lake shore, one gets a very nice view, better, as I 
have often expressed it, than if the parties were on the 
boat, as they cannot see both shores on a boat at once, 
unless the tourist's eyes were cut out on a bias or cross, 
thus enabling them to see both sides at once. The rail 
is preferable and saves time. As it is irnmaterial to me 
how you reach Ticonderoga, it is presumed you get 
there. Lake George Junction is where you change cars 
and connect for Baldwin, which is a ride of about 
fifteen minutes. You are now supposed to have 



T55 

arrived on board the company's steamers " Horicon " or 
" Ticonderoga," and are sailing up Lake George. Now, 
if the reader expects me to describe Lake St. George, I 
shall simply say No ! with a large N. It is too much ; 
its praises have been written and sung for the past half 
century by thousands. I shall with pleasure and relief 
to myself, ask the loan of your scissors. Thanks ; now 
we can comply with your wishes : We have started on 
our trip through this magical lake. It is difficult to 
describe the quiet delight one feels as he gazes on the 
expanse of the tranquil azure spread before him like a, 
part of the sky inlaid on the emerald bosom of the 
earth. Peace is in the very air which lazily slumbers 
over the water, while the monotone of the silvery rip- 
ples rolling on the yellow sands, and the musical moan 
of the breeze in the cone-scented pines, seem to carry 
the soul back to other days. Lake George is, indeed, 
like a work of art of the highest order, for it has the 
quality of improving, the more one studies its attrac- 
tions, and the ever-harmonious flow of lines constantly 
suggests a composition of consummate genius in which 
every effect has been combined to produce a certain 

ideal. 

Now, dear reader, I have a favor to ask of you ; read 
this little book as far as Saratoga description com- 
mences ; then lay it aside, and feast the eyes on Lake 
George for the next two hours, and, if you can describe 
its beauties, do so to the best of your ability, and 
forward to me, 21 Chestnut Park, Rochester, N. Y., and 
it shall have a place in this work, and you shall have 
the credit for the same ;— the task was too much for 
me. 



156 



CAMPING OUT. 

The lake is a famous camping ground, during July 
and August, and its enjoyments, with bits of sound 
advice, can not be better given than by the following, 
unless you purchase one of the favorite Guides to Lake 
George, Lake Champlain and the Adirondacks — full of 
information, maps and illustrations, published at Glen 
Falls, N. Y., and for sale on all steamers and news 
stands. 

"The lovely islands are suddenly astir with busy 
throngs. Rocks are decked with blue and gray, the 
tree-tops blush with buntings ; shores put on a flannelly 
hue, and shadowy points blossom out in duck and 
dimity. It is safe to say that in the course of the 
season a thousand people taste the pleasures and 
overcome the difficulties that but season the glorious 
dish of camp life at Lake George. Among the neces- 
saries are a light axe, long handle frying-pan, tin pail 
for water or coffee, tin plate, pint cup, knife and fork 
and fishing tackle. A stove top laid on a fire place of 
stones and mud, and supplied with one length of stove- 
pipe, is a positive luxury to the cook. Spruce boughs 
for a bed, with two or three good woolen blankets for 
covering, will be found very comfortable ; a. small bag 
to fill with leaves or moss for a pillow pays for itself in 
one night. Flannel or woolen clothing, with roomy 
boots and a soft felt hat, is ordinarily the safest dress. 
Ladies, wear what you have a mind to you will, any- 
way — but let it be flannel next to you, good strong 
shoes under foot, and a man's felt hat overhead; 
take the man along too — he will be useful to take the 
fish off your hook, run errands, etc. 



157 

" Boats and provisions may be obtained at almost 
any of the hotels. Bacon, salt pork, bread and butter, 
Boston crackers, tea, coffee, sugar, pepper and salt, with 
a tin box or two for containing the same, are among 
the things needed. Milk can be obtained regularly 
at the farm houses, and berries picked almost any- 
where. Ice is a luxury which may be contracted for 
and thrown from the passing steamers daily ; a hole in 
the ground with a piece of bark over it forms a very 
good ice-box. A drinking cup of leather, to carry in 
the pocket, comes handy at times. Broad-brimmed 
straw hats are a nuisance. A shanty of boughs will 
answer in absence of anything better ; it sounds well 
wheii you talk about ' roughing it,' but it is bad in prac- 
tice. A tent' is best and may be made very comfortable 
with a little outlay of money and labor." 

THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The great wilderness of northeastern New York, the 
limits of which we will not try to define, is generally 
known as the North Woods, or as the Adirondacks, 
according to the view taken of its surface. The former 
title indicates merely a wild, densely wooded region ; 
the latter, a region occupied by all the varied scenery 
pertaining to a most remarkable lake and mountain 
system. This wild region of dense forest, majestic 
mountains, magnificent lakes and beautiful rivers, lies 
in the counties of Herkimer, Hamilton, Lewis, St. 
Lawrence, Clinton, Franklin' and Essex, and aggregates 
over 3,500,000 acres, a tract of land of an area of nearly 
100 square miles. This region is the only primitive 
hunting and fishing grounds left in New York State, 



158 

and offering, as it does, rare health-restoring qualities 
combined with excellent deer hunting, and the best of 
brook and lake trout fishing accessible, is yearly more 
than doubling its number of visitors — in fact, the limit 
is only measured by hotel capacity. It is not our pur- 
pose, nor would it be possible in so small a work as 
this, to go into details as to the wilderness, but guide- 
books are easily obtained, and The Delaware & 
Hudson R. R. issues a large amount of information 
upon the subject, which is easily obtainable from their 
General Passenger Agent, J. W. Burdick, Albany, N. Y. 

MY TRIP OVER THE GRAVITY RAIL- 
ROAD. 

In 1876, the centennial year, this country was visited 
by scores, yes hundreds, of foreign visitors who came 
to our shores in quest of sights. Up to this time the 
company owning and working the Gravity railroad 
persistently refused any one transportation over it. No 
matter how much they pleaded or petitioned there was 
not anything they could do to move the heart of that 
corporation. At last, light came through the darkness ; 
a female lawyer conceived the idea that way back in 
1813, when the road was first built, the right of way 
was given as a public highway, and so she demanded 
transportation or they must abide the consequences. 

I have been a great traveler in my day and have seen 
almost everything on this. continent that is worth see- 
ing. I was annoyed more by people asking questions 
about the Gravity railroad than as to any other spot in 
the country, so to the end that I might be in a better 
position to talk of it, I concluded to make the trip and 



159 

see its beauties. Knowing that misery loves company, 
I determined to take my daughter along, to the end that 
she could have the misery while I would be in good 
company. 

We left Albany, N. Y., on Wednesday morning at 
8.30 o'clock, over the Delaware and Hudson Canal 
Company's railroad. Station after station was passed ; 
oui eyes feasting upon the beauties of the mountain, 
valley, river, hillside and plain, but we had left that 
most beautiful of all pictures. Lake George, so could 
not drink, in the ever changing scenes as we otherwise 
would. We were almost in dreamland when a party of 
hop pickers boarded the train ; a happier, jollier, good 
natured crowd of country giris and boys we never saw 
before. The usual violin, guitar, bones and mouth organ 
accompanied them, and while they were with us, which 
was for over an hour, they kept up a continual revelry. 

In the beautiful agricultural districts through which 
we passed, the corn fields were almost a bright yellow 
with the thousands of pumpkins that almost hid the 
earth from view. Our thoughts went back to the days 
when we were boys and made hideous jack lanterns to 
frighten nervous females and timid boys. One passen- 
ger remarked to another, " Is the pumpkin a berry or a 
fruit ? " After a little discussion it was left to me, and 
I decided that it made berry good pie to say the least. 

Can't say what struck the train ; the effect of that 
joke, probably, was the cause of the train coming to a 
standstill and suddenly the brakeman called out 
" Nineveh Junction, change cars," which we did, and 
were soon on our way to Carbondale, running under that 
greatest of stone viaducts, over which passes the Erie 
Railroad, and came to numerous coal pits, coal shafts 



i6o 

and coal towns, and soon that long-looked-for 
announcement by the trainman breaks upon our ear- 
drum, " Carbondale, change for the Gravity Railroad." 
This we did very quickly, and found we were noticed 
by a fine looking old gentleman we discovered to be the 
Superintendent,Mr.R.Manville. After looking us over for 
size, style and general appearance, he took us for some 
one of note, which we were, and ordered out an elegant 
new coach for our sole use, as there was not room in 
the regular. This was one occasion in my life that my 
weight and size helped me to gain a prominent position. 

" All aboard," was the next sound I heard and looked 
around to see if I was all there, and we started. Our 
coach being in front, we acted as engine, and soon 
rounded at the first incline. Up to this time no pro- 
pelling power was used, simply our weight and the 
gravity of the roadbed. Now we were attached to a 
cable and taken at the rate of ten or fifteen miles an 
hour up an incline ; then a little way of our own-gravity, 
we came to another incline, and so on to incline after 
incline, until we arrived at Far View, the top o'f a 
mountain 2,350 feet above the level of the sea. From 
that point we struck at what is called the ten mile level, 
but it has forty feet fall to the mile. And here we 
glide without any apparent power thirty or forty miles 
per hour ; without the annoyance of the engine, with its 
whistle, dust smoke and cinders, and so elated with our 
ride that we deem heaven but a little way off ; this huge 
body of mine was for a moment ethereal, imagining that 
I had been flying instead of the train. 

Looking a little ahead I saw the village of Honesdale 
in the distance and a most magnificent hotel located on 
the top of a mountain or bluff in the rear of the village, 



i6i 

and almost as quick as thought we arrived. Alighting 
from the car we were met by Mr. H. J. Conger, who 
took -us in charge and escorted us to the Allen House. 
After a little preparation supper was announced, and if 
ever that word was appreciated it was on that occasion 
by myself as well as my daughter. After doing ample 
justice to that ever memorable meal, I was invited by 
Mr. Conger, and a lady guest at the hotel invited my 
daughter, to take a walk, as they desired to show us 
the village. It was on a Wednesday evening and all 
the different churches were sending forth their peal of 
the bell for the assembling together of the different 
congregations. Mr. Conger and myself were in deep 
conversation and did not notice we were holding the 
crowd behind us at bay by our slow martial tread. 
Presently I heard a remark coming from a lady directly 
behind us to this effect : "Who is that large, fleshy 
gentleman with Mr. Conger ? " "I don't know, he must 
be a stranger in town." "Oh, I am- sorry, I wish he 
lived here." "Why?" "If he dd I would form his 
acquaintance very quickly and invite him up to the 
house every evening six times a week." " What for ?" 
" So he could sit down on our bible and press our 
autumn leaves." 

At this juncture we smiled and turned the corner, 
and proceeded up as far as the river bridge, then join- 
ing the ladies we passed through the principal business 
streets and returned to the hotel, after an hour and a 
half's walk. We parted with Mr. Conger, after spend- 
ing a very pleasant hour in the parlor of the hotel with 
some of the guests, when our watch denoted the hour 
of bedtime had arrived. We retired * * * awoke 
if not with the lark, we "got there just the same," and 



l62 

about seven o'clock went to the depot to take the car, 
where we were introduced to Mr. William Muir, the 
superintendendent of the Delaware & Hudson Canal 
Company at this point, who very kindly showed us the 
manner in which the cars were loaded with coal ; also 
the different screens used in selecting the different 
sizes of coal and the manner in which that commodity 
is placed on canal boats. We also saw the working of 
the steam shovel in loading from huge mountains of 
coal. 

At the time appointed we took our special car and 
proceeded to return to Carbondale. The distance from 
Carbondale to Honesdale is i6 miles, from Honesdale to 
Carbondale is 20 miles. Entering our car we arrive at 
the first incline, and were soon at that part of the road 
called Horseshoe Bend. This gorge was formerly 
spanned by a bridge 175 feet high. By gravity we pass 
around a curve. The sight of the autumn foliage is 
grand, and the beautiful little village of Seelyville in the 
distance. We arrive at incline number fourteen ; there 
are twenty-eight of these inclines in all. The sight of 
the track below, one hundred cars loaded with coal 
taking their serpentine windings around the various 
curves, run by an invisible power, is a sight once seen, 
never forgotten. Prompton Pass is the next place of 
note and we arrive at incline number sixteen, the 
engineer of which has made a beautiful flower garden 
amid rocks and coal which is very delightful to the eye. 
The large pond and station next in order is the feeder 
of the Delaware and Hudson canal. Waymart is the 
next station where trains are loaded, fifty 'cars each ; 
this place is 1,450 feet above tide water. Next is incline 
number nineteen, over a half a mile in length, on the top 



i63 

of which is Far View, where we were met by Mr. R. 
Manville, who invited us to take a ride in his democrat 
wagon with two spirited horses attached. Had the 
wagon been any smaller or the horses any less, we would 
not have had the pleasure of taking in Far View. After 
they had procured a derrick and some steps I was gently 
raised into the seat in the vehicle and we proceeded on 
our tour of inspection. Everything that can be done, 
until the ingenuity of man is taxed to its utmost capacity 
for the pleasure and accommodation of visitors, has been 
done by the company. Hundreds of seats, chairs and 
benches are arranged everywhere. 

Observatories, where you can ascend 150 feet to 
enhance your view ; grounds for base ball, croquet, 
lawn tennis ; in fact, everything to make it pleasant for 
picnic excursions or tourist travel has been done. We 
proceeded to the highest observatory, which we found 
was a little too high for our observation on account of a 
dense fog, so that we had to feast our eyes from below. 
The observatory is twenty-six hundred feet above the 
level of the sea, and from its summit may be seen nine- 
teen small lakes or bodies of water, springs as it were, 
upon the top of the mountain. From one the company use 
twenty-six thousand gallons of water daily. A magnificent 
view of the Adirondacks of New York, the White Moun- 
tains of New Hampshire and Green Mountains of Ver- 
mont, can be had on a clear day. There is some talk of 
building a hotel here for tourists, of which, when com- 
pleted, I want to be one of the first guests. The time 
having arrived to depart, we were invited to inspect the 
huge engine, boilers and fan wheel, used to convey cars 
up and down the incline, and we should advise visitors 
to take in the Engineers' Art Gallery, which is really a 



164 

curiosity. Our car being attached to the regular train 
we proceeded on our way to Carbondale, which is twelve 
miles. Again on our way three miles and a half we are 
at the Shepherd's Crook. The engineer, conductor and 
brakeman are in one person, occupying the front plat- 
form. He put on the brake and our car stood still and 
we had the pleasure of seeing the regular train ahead 
pass around the Shepherd's Crook. After witnessing 
that novel sight, Mr. Manville told his brakeman to 
catch the regular train, which seemed to us about three 
miles ahead. All he had to do was simply let up on his 
brake, and it seems as if we were there, for while I was 
taking in the scenes which greeted my eye we had joined 
the regular train, and I asked him how long before we 
would catch up to it, and I was informed we were 
already coupled on ; "for," said he, "the cows for the 
whole village of Carbondale pasture upon this hillside, 
and we have them educated for all the regular trains 
but not for specials, and for that reason I didn't care to 
run over any of the cattle and be accessory after the 
fact of their demise, so we coupled on to save trouble 
and expense." Looking out I saw a woman in charge 
of about eight or ten cows, and truthfully she was the 
homeliest person I ever saw. I asked him if they had 
female herderesses here, and he remarked " yes." I then 
said they must use that one's face to wean the calves by. 

" Carbondale, change cars." 

After bidding everybody good-bye we took our seat 
in the D. & H. company's regular, train for Albany, 
arriving at five o'clock and thirty minutes in the after- 
noon. 



i65 

LAKE GEORGE. 

Every American, or tourist, should see it at least 
once. It is the largest of the Adirondack chain, 346 
feet above the sea, and 247 above Champlain, thirty- 
five miles long and from two to four in width, and fed 
from mountain brooks and springs coming up from the 
bottom, making it transparent. It is beautifully dotted 
with over 200 islands,, and surrounded by high moun- 
tains, some rising 2,000 feet above the water, clothed 
with foliage and dotted with villas and picturesque 
camps ; one feels like leaving the boat and remaining 
in this bower of enchantment. The steamers touch at 
all points of note, and arrive at the Sagamore Hotel, 
where you can, if you desire, remain over. 

THE SAGAMORE 

stands among the trees at the south end of the Green 
Island, 40 feet above the level of the lake, command- 
ing from its upper windows the grand scenery of the 
Narrows on the east, the broad lake and bays at the 
south and west, and the mountains on every side. 

The buildings comprising the Sagamore are of 
uncertain number, of varying levels, and picturesque 
in their grouping. The style is that popularly sup- 
posed to belong to the sixteenth century, — rising 
one back of another, with short flights of steps,- 
between, connected by open corridors with charming 
outlooks ; its varied porticos, balconies and gables 
admirably displayed in colors that harmonize richly 
with their native surroundings. 

Its interior finish is plain, but rich and substantial, 
showing massive beams, fireplaces of artistic designs 



i66 

in terra cotta, tinted walls and joiner work in native 
woods. 

The furnishing is all that can be desired ; chairs and 
sofas, multiform and inviting, of different woods, pol- 
ished, and of willow ware ; the upholstery bright and 
cheerful ; the beds of the best kind procurable ; in 
short, no effort has been spared nor cost considered in 
making this the ideal hotel. 

The main hall and office, and the principal parlor 
and reading and smoking rooms are on the main floor, 
looking out upon a semi-circular lawn, with flower 
bordered walks, leading down to the steamboat landing, 
and revealing between its stately trees delightful 
vistas of lake and islands beyond. 

In the office are electric bells, with a system of wires 
running to the various rooms, placing them in imme- 
diate communication with base of supplies. 

Telegraphic connection is made with the Western 
Union system at Caldwell by special wire in the- office. 

The news and notion stand supplies daily papers, 
periodicals, guides, maps, photographs, fine candies and 
fancy goods. 

An elevator is here for the service of such as may 
prefer it to the short flights of steps by which the upper 
floors are reached. 

The Edison Incandescent Light is used throughout the 
entire establishment. 

Spring water is brought from the mountain two miles 
away and 500 feet above the lake, and carried to every 
floor, where hose and pipe attachment affords the best 
of protection against possible danger from fire. 

The sleeping rooms are spacious — many of them 
en suite, with private balconies and outside as well as 
hall entrances. 



167 

The sanitary conditions are perfect, made so by the 
employment of the most approved methods of drain- 
age, for the application of which the location is admir- 
ably adapted. 

Baths, hot and cold, may be had at the hotel and 
bath-houses outside ; while those who like open air 
and water for the sport, will find retired places and 
sandy beach near by. 

Amusements : billiards and bowling within, and 
croquet, tennis, polo and archery without. 

Riding and driving are provided for in the extensive 
stables on the island, and accommodations for those 
who may bring their own equipage. The drives are 
many and delightful. 

Fishing, rowing,. sailing or "steaming" are all made 
attractive by respectful attendants, and a fleet of boats 
ranging from the tiny skiff to the comfortable steam 
yacht. 

A large hall for music and social gatherings has 
been built, connected with the main building at its 
highest point. Two new cottages also, and twenty-six 
new and desirable sleeping rooms have been added. 

The line steamers land on every regular trip through 
the lake, connecting with the trains at each end, and 
run from Caldwell to the Sagamore dock on the arrival 
of the evening train from the south. 

The proprietor, Mr. M. O. Brown, long and popularly 
known as a hotel man on the lake, will spare no pains 
to make your sojourn attractive in all respects. 

The cuisine is perfect. The Chef and assistants are 
from the leading New York hotels. The head waiter, 
with his excellent and full corps of carefully trained 
and experienced waiters, the best that could be 
obtained. • 



i68 

As I Ikivc cliccrfiilly rccomnicnded tourists for the 
last six years to make a short stay at least at this 
delightful resort, the Sagamore, (it is as near Heaven 
as many mortals will reach,) get within its portals if 
hut for a short time, that you may realize its beauties, 
then you ean thank me for the suggestion, as many 
others have, and I will be well repaid. C'onneclions 
are, however, arranged for, and you ean if you wish, 
leave innnediately for C'aldwell. 

FACILITIES FOR LAKE TRAVEL. 

The Champlain Trans])ortation C'ompany run a 
regular line of steamboats the entire leiigth of the lake, 
making three round trips daily (except Sunday), and 
slopping at all way landings. Tlu; "1 loricon" of this line, 
making the regular connections with the railroad, is a 
line side-wheel steamer 203 feet long and 52 feet wide 
over all, and is 643 tons burden, and will accommodate 
comfortably 1,000 people. J can truthfully say that 
upon no inland lake in the world is the passenger ser- 
vice so promptly and regularly done, and passengers so 
elegantly cared foi' as upon i>ake (leorge. 

Caldwell is the railroad terminus, aiul is the largest 
town on tlu: lake. It is situated at the extreme 
southern end, or head of the lake (the waters llowing 
north and emptying into Lake C'hamplain, immediately 
at the ruins of old i^'ort 'i'iconderoga.) At Caldwell is 
located the handsome dock and station building of the 
railroad c()m[)any, whose trains run down the dock 
immediately to the steamers — one of which leaves 
upon the arrival of each train, for all |)()ints down the 
lake, 'i'he railroad was extended to this point in 1S83, 
thus saving at least one hour of time, antl belter facili- 



169 

ties for the accommodation of tourists and i)leasure 
travel. The Adirondack R. R. has been purchased by 
the I). t\: H. Co., and hereafter will be known as the 
Adirondack Division of the I). & H. system. 

SARATOGA SPRINGS, 

the focus to which the fashionable world of the 
United States, indeed, of Kurope, is annually drawn. 
Here are intellectual men, stylish men, the beaux of 
society, and the man of the world ; ladies of social 
rank, the managing mother, the marriageable daughters, 
the fluttering bee of fashion, and the more gentle bird 
of beauty, are found amidst the throng, for Saratoga is 
cosmopolitan. As a gentleman said to me one day, " I 
can meet more of my friends in one hour during the 
season at Saratoga than I could at home in a week." 
The ladies here have ample opportunities to display 
their peculiar charms and graces. • The sporting gen- 
tleman can also find an opportunity to gratify his 
peculiar tastes ; the philosopher may study human 
nature ; the invalid find perfect health ; in fact every 
one at Saratoga finds that peculiar pleasure they most 
desire. Of all the elegant hotels which here abound we 
have not space to mention. I will, therefore, speak of 
those I know, the United States and Adelphi, confident 
they can please any one paying them a visit. First 
comes the Adelphi Hotel — this new, comfortable and 
petite hotel is located on Ikoadway, contains over one 
hundred rooms, is convenient to the springs, etc., etc. 
Its piazza is elevated one story above the street and 
commands a splendid view up and down Broadway, as 
well as Phila street, opposite. The proprietor, A. E. 



170 

Wilder, is too well known to the traveling community 
to need one word from me, and the gentleman connected 
with the office, Mr. Frank Krum, Jr., late manager- of 
the Grant Hotel, Catskill Mountains, N. Y. The 
genial, suave and polite Col. F. F. Wilder will receive 
the guests this year — come under his benign influences 
and your stay is sure to be pleasant. The dinuig room 
and other departments of the house, are too well 
qualified to need commendation. It is " my home " 
when in Saratoga ; that is all I have to say against it. 
Under the Adelphi Hotel is the office of the Saratoga 
Kissengen Company. The Kissengen is '' The King " 
of table waters. Drop in and examine its qualities ; I 
feel confident you will be pleased. It is the universal 
opinion of tourists that no watering place on the 
continent, of like size, can compare wil;h the 
unwearying charms of Saratoga. The hotel arrivals 
some days are upwards of one thousand. One might 
become almost tired of the world and vote "every 
other place a bore, but Saratoga scenery, Saratoga 
atmosphere . and Saratoga life would still charm by 
its ever pleasing peculiarities. 

THE UNITED STATES HOTEL, SARA- 
TOGA SPRINGS. 

That magnificent Saratoga Palace, the United States 
Hotel,, will open the present season on June 25th, 
and entertain many of the world's most distinguished 
people until October ist next. Messrs. Tompkins, 
Gage & Perry, the proprietors, form a trio whose 
reputation as hotel men is not excelled anywhere. 
During the season each gives his personal attention 



T71 

to a department of the hotel, even to the minutest 
•detail, and the result is, that their concert of action 
has won for them fame and fortune. Workmen are 
employed throughout the year. Every winter the 
plumbing, furniture, in fact everything in the interior 
of the hotel, is thoroughly examined by the corps of 
competent men who repair and improve where neces- 
sary, and each spring the exterior of the building, and 
park, walks, fountains, etc., receive the same careful 
attention. Just now the outside of the hotel is being 
repainted. " Apropos " of this, a visitor said to me 
as we watched the painters industriously applying 
the paint, " Why, it seems almost a waste of money 
to paint that hotel this year, as it scarcely seems neces- 
sary ;" and then he added, " Everything must be the 
pink of neatness and perfection about that hotel." 
He was right, and struck the key note of the policy 
adopted by those successful hotel- proprietors. One of 
the most notable features of this hotel is the service. 
Even the hypercritical guest cannot find a loophole in 
this department through which to make a complaint. 
Each succeeding season, with but few exceptions, occa- 
sioned, perhaps, by sickness or death, the same com- 
petent staff returns to take up their old duties. I met 
Mr. Hiram Tompkins and Dr. Perry, who had just 
returned from New York, and they said, " The pros- 
pects of the season are excellent. We have already 
rented over two-thirds of our cottages for the summer, 
which to this date is without parallel in the past ; of all 
the departments of the hotel the same can be said. 
Yes ! Stub's Orchestra will return, and about all of the 
old help." But little if anything can be said here 
to add luster to this world-famed hotel. Make it 



172 

your home while in Saratoga and you will have 
the satisfaction and consolation that no other hotel 
can give. 

Mount McGregor, the place selected above all others 
for its pure air, etc., etc., as a residence for our hero, 
Gen. U. S. Grant, who arrived at Saratoga on June i6th, 
1885 (during my stay for health), so I had the pleasure 
of seeing the old veteran while he was being conveyed 
to the Mount McGregor R. R., which ascends to the 
top of the mountain, where visitors can go almost every 
hour and get a view that will well repay them. I left 
Saratoga on the morning of the 19th of June, and was 
informed by the conductor of the Mt. McGregor R. R. 
that General Grant rested well the previous night and 
slept ten hours. As all are aware, our hero departed 
this life July 23d. The cottage, however, is kept in the 
same manner as the day he left it, and will become an 
historic place for visitors who come to Saratoga from 
all parts of the world. 

It is a fact, and worthy of note here, that for the past 
four years there has not been one day during the months 
of July and August, but they have had a heavy frost on 
Mount McGregor. I can vouch for the truthfulness of 
this item because I know him. He is the conductor of 
the train on the Mt. McGregor R. R., weighs 280 pounds, 
and his name is Frost. (He was a broad-gauge con- 
ductor on a narrow-gauge railroad.) Mr. Frost having 
accepted the agency for one of Saratoga's celebrated 
springs, there will not be a heavy frost on Mt. 
McGregor this year. He will be mist; won't his 280 
pounds almost make a rain ? 

Saratoga contains 10,000 inhabitants and in the 
summer season every private house is turned into a 



T73 

boarding house of one or the other class, and there- 
fore boarding houses abound — no space to mention all 
of them here. 

Next in order comes the Springs, Congress and 
Hathorn. 



EXCELSIOR SPRINGS AND PARK, 

some distance from town, as well as others I shall men- 
tion, you can visit when you take a drive. Washington 
Spring is on the grounds of one of the hotels. Crystal, 
Pavilion, High Rock, Star, Seltzer, Red, A Spring, 
Geyser or spouting spring, Robert Ellis, The Vichy, 
"The Champion Spouting Spring," Hamilton, Putnam, 
Flat Rock, Magnetic, Sulphur, Iron, Diamond, Kissen- 
gen and Patterson, as well as a number of others which 
have been discovered or may have been before this 
reaches you. If, however, you 'are not satisfied with 
the springs herein mentioned, all I ask is for you to 
visit the ones mentioned, as I did, and accept the cordial 
invitation of each to take a glass, and if you do not 
feel the next day that there are springs enough at Sara- 
toga, your feelings will be different from the sensa- 
tions felt by the writer of this article, by a large 
majority. The drives in this vicinity are numerous. 
The road to the cemetery (which, I am informed by the 
oldest inhabitant, in order to start, they were obliged 
to borrow a corpse from an adjoining county, and now 
a select few who wish to die happy come and are 
decently interred), has been improved, so that the drive 
is very much enhanched thereby. By far the prettiest 
drive, however, is through Broadway from Highland 
Hill for two miles to Glen Mitchell. The most fashion- 



174 

able drive is that to the Lake. Immense sums of money 
have been expended to widen and beautify this drive, 
which is loo feet wide and shaded with trees, and is 
sprinkled to lay the dust. Visitors pass up one side and 
down the other. Saratoga Lake is eight miles long and 
two and one-half wide. On an eminence on the western 
shore is Moon's Lake House, proverbial for its sump- 
tuous game suppers. Parties fond of fishing or boating 
can enjoy this favorite pastime to their full extent. Mr. 
Moon retired some three years ago, being succeeded by 
Messrs. Kinney and Foley. Its fitness for aquatic 
sports have been verified by the many events of that 
nature which have taken place on its placid waters since 
187 1, when the Ward Brothers vanquished two English 
crews selected from the best professional oarsmen of 
Great Britain. Racing is the turf event of the year, and 
cannot be described here, only mentioned. 

Life at Saratoga is two-fold — Home and Hotel. 
The former is enjoyed by its citizens, who possess some 
of the most luxurious, refined and elegant houses to be 
found in the United States. Hotel or fashionable life 
is ephemeral in its nature, and, like the beautiful butter- 
fly, its duration is short. In these few brief months, 
wealth, beauty, fashion and other ingredients not so 
desirable intermingle, and amid the gay whirl and 
excitement of the ball room at night one is in a con- 
stant ecstacy. From his visit to the springs in the 
morning, promenades or drives in the afternoon, the 
music, lawn sociable and glittering fireworks at night 
one wonders what time there is for nature's balmy, 
sweet restorer — sleep. Anticipating your stay at Sara- 
toga to have come to an end, you can depart for Albany 
any morning via Delaware & Hudson Canal Co.'s R.R., 



175 

or West Shore R. R., which run solid trains to and from 
Saratoga to New York, and New York to Saratoga, 
Pullman Buffett Cars. Some having tickets to New 
York by rail or boat, day or night from Albany or Troy. 
The general offices of all railroads or steamboats and 
bureau of information is in the Adelphi Hotel Building, 
presided over by my genial friend, Mr. C. E. Andrews. 
I advise every one to take the Fall River Line to Boston. 
If you have tickets to Boston via Albany, all rail, take 
the Boston & Albany railroad, which is first-class. 

NEW YORK. 

To those visiting New York for the first time, a few 
words of advice may not come amiss. I therefore sug- 
gest arriving, if possible, by daylight. Every one in 
the city minds their own business — a credit in some 
ways ; but some people make it 'their business to fleece 
the stranger. I would therefore say, keep your own 
counsel. If information be required ask a policeman. 
Upon arrival, take cars or cab, if possible, to destina- 
tion. If you desire any of the hotels represented in 
this work, you will always find one or more trusty 
porters at trains or boats. Avoid, if possible, the 
hacks, unless you make a fair square bargain before 
entering the vehicle ; your trunk or valise may accom- 
pany you with carriage. You will always find upon all 
trains or boats, courteous agents of the different bag- 
gage and express companies, who will take your check, 
giving a receipt for the same, which relieves you and 
saves you much trouble and annoyance, as their 
delivery system is prompt and their charges a stipulated 
price ; no deviation, except for quantity. 



176 

Something should be said here regarding the metrop- 
olis of the American Continent, but space as well as 
time prevents. As everything seen here is in grandeur 
superior to elsewhere, the impression made upon the 
mind while here will be everlasting. I shall not try to 
befog the mind with as meagre a mention as I am capa- 
ble of giving, but simply refer to the principal hotels. 
'I'he first one at hand is the Grand Union Hotel, 42nd^ 
street, near the Grand Central Station. Money-getting 
being the chief aim of life, its proper expenditure should 
not prove of secondary importance. That travel con- 
sumes a much larger portion of our finances than it 
should, is evident from the fact that but a few possess 
the secret of retrenching in that direction. Two 
important factors of expense in travel are carriage hire 
and transfer of baggage ; and that the traveling public 
is more generally becoming disposed to throw off their 
former burden, is patent from the army of guests who 
daily register at and fill the 600 rooms (reduced to $1.00 
and upwards per day), at the Grand Union Hotel oppo- 
site the Grand Central Station, New York City. Its 
iMiropean plan, elegant restaurants, cafe, lunch and 
wine rooms, unexcelled cuisine, moderate prices, courte- 
ous treatment, unchallenged management, coupled with 
its guests incurring no expense for carriage hire or bag- 
gage transfer, with elevated railway, horse cars and 
cabs to all parts of the city passing its doors, render 
the Grand Union one of the most desirable of homes 
for travelers in the city, and also established its suc- 
cess and world-famed popularity. 



177 
A MAGNIFICENT HOTEL. 

The Murray Hill Hotel is situated on Park Avenue, 
in New York City, but one block from the Grand Central 
Station. A more convenient hotel site for the accom- 
modation of the newly arrived traveler who would at 
the earliest moment find a home, could not have been 
selected. The house stands upon the highest grade in 
New York, and, of course occupies the healthiest of 
locations. It is of great size, extending two hundred feet 
on the Avenue, more than two hundred feet on Fortieth 
street, on the one side, and on Forty-first street on the 
other. It is of granite, brown stone and brick, fire-proof. 
When the traveler finds a hotel in every way meeting 
his demand for his comfort, he may honestly praise it 
while he disparages no other. For New York contains 
many costly structures, whose proprietors severally 
believe that their guests have reason to be satisfied. 
Hotels are not advertised as second class by those that 
manage them. The man who is used to comfort at 
home is perhaps as goocf a judge as any one concerning 
what constitutes a satisfactory hotel. But, if you 
come to New York in the summer, I recommend you to 
this house, for in all this city there can be no healthier 
place in the warm season. There is a satisfaction felt 
at once upon entrance to this beautiful house. The 
vestibule is apparently just large enough ; the hand- 
some, short flight of marble steps that lead to the office: 
seem to be just long enough, the great hall seems justJ 



178 

high enough to satisfy fully the idea that one has of 
proper architectural proportion. The floor is of marble, 
but not the hideous black and white inset diagonal. 
The Sienna is set against the slate and is a carpet pat- 
tern. One rather expects it to be soft and yielding to 
the foot, it looks so like a Wilton. The office is roomy; 
not three or four only, but forty people may range 
themselves along its handsome counter ready to sign, 
in regular order, the register. The bookstand is no 
contracted affair, but space enough is given to allow 
display of, and easy access to, all periodicals and 
newspapers. Everything is on a grand scale, but alto- 
gether convenient. The great fire-place, which, with 
its burning logs, in winter invites the guest to share its 
comfort, is an attraction that merits and receives 
enthusiastic comment. The electric clock, lighted at 
night, the chandeliers, which at the proper time, becau^se 
of the light touch of a knob somewhere, instantly 
illuminate halls and parlors, have their supply of elec- 
tricity from the great machines in the basement, and 
the ice that is used for any purpose through all the 
house is made in huge condensers there. All 
the departments seem to be at all times in the best 
working order. All the employees seem ever willing, to 
do their best to please the guest. There is a painstak- 
ing to furnish information when it is asked ; if one 
clerk does not know he directs you to one who does. 
In the matter of meals, they are ready at all hours. At 



179 

the time of registry, the choice is made between the 
American and European plan, but the restaurants above 
•and below stairs are always available. It would be easy 
for me to compliment the management and the efficient 
office staff, but that goes for the saying. As space is 
limited, I need only advise you to give the Murray 
Hill Hotel your patronage once ; they will see that you 
make it your home thereafter. 

On October ist, 1890, the opening of "The Plaza" 
takes' place, which is to be New York's grandest effort 
in Hotel History. It will occupy a frontage facing 
Central Park on the north, 5th Avenue on the east, 
58th St. south to 59th St., overlooking all drives. 
Within half a block of the 6th Avenue Elevated, where 
all trains are made up — it, therefore, will be the home 
of the refined and wealthy of New York citizens, as the 
interior will be elaborately furnished and most costly 
decorated of any hotel in America. One word more, 
it is under the proprietorship of F. A. Hammond. 

The next on the list is the Grand Central Hotel, 
Broadway, one of the largest in the city. It has lately 
been refitted, re-decorated and re-furnished, and under 
the present proprietors, Messrs. Fayman & Sprague, is 
receiving the patronage its merits deserve. It is run 
on the American and European plans, so that anyone 
can be pleased. Its graded prices, its location and 
appointments, together with the friends one meets here, 
as it is patronized by more Southerners than any hotel 
in New York, make it a pleasant place for tourist or 
traveler. I make it my home when in the city, and feel 
confident you will be pleased and recommend your 
friends there after a visit, the same as I do you. There 



i8o 

was some talk of changing the name of this '' landmark'* 
on account of the thorough change in the hotel and 
management, although I confess it would be appli- 
cable to the situation, as everything else has been 
changed, it would be better for its patrons to advertise 
the changes than the new name. Therefore, no matter 
what they call the Grand Central, it will please you as 
a hotel, and its prices are not extravagant. 

While in New York, about the middle of June, I 
thought it would be a good idea if some one of the 
many merchants in the city were to advertise in this 
little volume ; knowing that it is not thrown away but 
retained as a souvenir, it will be a perpetual adver- 
tisement ; I called on Dr. W. L. Fleming, " The Cancer 
King," of 206 West 5 2d St., New York City, who showed 
me hundreds of cancers, which he removes without the 
aid of a knife. If this should greet the eye of an 
afflicted one, I feel positive after calling and being 
treated they would look upon me as a benefactor as 
long as they live for putting in my book this gratuitous 
notice. I also visited three of the leading dry goods 
firms. No. i stated that I was too late, they did no 
summer business. No. 2 said my price was too high, 
but as I spend all the money I procure from adver- 
tisers on the printing of books and get my money off 
the sale, his point was not well taken. No. 3 invited 
me to call next season, which I hope to have the plea- 
sure of doing. I would like to say here that I published 
this book and advised the advertisers therein to take 
the space, feeling it would bring back to them four-fold 
what they paid me. It will, therefore, afford me plea- 
sure to have you mention to any of the advertisers that 
it was through my solicitation and this work that you 



t8i 

favored them with your patronage ; it will do you no 
harm and benefit me. 

BOSTON 

is one of the most interesting of American cities, not 
only on account of its thrilling traditions and historical 
associations, but for public enterprise and social cul- 
ture, educational and literary facilities. Boston is 
peculiarly Boston, and no one can describe its public, 
private or natural beauties in the space alloted me here. 
The principal sights are Bunker Hill Monument, Fane- 
uil Hall, the Common, Public Garden, Old and New 
State Houses, Public Library, Old and New South 
Churches, Natural History buildings, Agricultural 
buildings. Institute of Technology, New Trinity Church, 
Mount Auburn, Harvard University building. Music 
Hall, the Great Organ, City Hall, Hospitals and other 
sights too numerous to.mention here. Trimountain, or 
Three Mountains, as Boston was- origin-ally called, is 
a peninsula of about 700 acres, almost surrounded by 
the sea. Its climate in the hottest part of seasons is 
deliciously cool, bracing and invigorating, and it is 
undoubtedly one of the healthiest cities in the world. 
Its harbor, one of the best on the coast, is about twenty 
miles long by eight wide. Its many islands and coasts 
are lined with thousands of delightful summer resorts, 
reached by numerous railroads and steamboats every 
hour of the day, forming a panorama of busy life and 
pleasure to be seen nowhere else. Its drives inland 
are none the less interesting and picturesque, whether 
we visit the classic shades of old Harvard, the roman- 
tic walks at Wellesley, or the hundred delightful 
suburban villages, whose well-kept streets, bright 



182 



lawns and elegant gardens simply reflect the elegance 
and taste within the homes of those who have made 
Boston what it is. The excellent horse-car service of 
Boston is one of the best institutions. Nowhere else in 
the country is this important convenience to visitors so 
complete as here. The broad, handsome, open cars 
reach all points within ten miles of the City Hall, and 
give visitors a most delightful opportunity to see the 
attractions at the least possible charge. 

Boston, the Capital of Massachusetts, embraces Bos- 
ton proper. East Boston, South Boston, Roxbury, West 
Roxbury, Brighton, Charlestown and Dorchester. Bos- 
ton proper, or old Boston, was very uneven in surface, 
and originally presenting three hills, Bacon, Copp's, 
the Fort, the former of which is about 130 feet above 
the sea. The Indian name of this peninsula was Shaw- 
mut, meaning " Sweet waters." A narrow strip of land 
called the "Neck" joined the peninsula to the main 
land ; this neck was formerly overflowed by the tide, 
but has been filled in and widened, and is now thickly 
built upon. East Boston occupies the west portion of 
Noodle's or Maverick's Island. Here is the deepest 
water of the harbor, and here the ocean steamers chiefly 
lie. The wharf now used by the Cunard steamers is 
1,000 feet long. South Boston extends about two miles 
along the south side of the harbor, an arm of which 
separates it from Boston proper. 

The first white inhabitant of Boston was the Rev. 
John Blackstone, supposed to have been an Episcopal 
clergyman, and to have arrived in 1623. Here he 
lived until 1630, when John Winthrop, (afterward the 
first Governor of Massachusetts) came across the 
river from Charlestown, where he had dwelt with some 



i83 

fellow immigrants for a short time. About 1635 Mr. 
Blackstone sold his claim to the now populous penin- 
sula for ^30, and removed to Rhode Island. The 
first church was built in 1632 ; the first wharf in 1673. 
Four years later a postmaster was appointed, and in 
1704 (x\pril 24th), the first newspaper, called the Bosto7i 
Neii's Letter^ was published. The " Boston Massacre " 
happened March 5, 1770, when three persons were 
killed and five wounded by the fire of the soldiers. In 
1773 tea was destroyed in the harbor, and Boston bore 
a conspicuous part in the opening scenes of the Revolu- 
tion. The city was incorporated in 1822, with a popu- 
lation of 45,000, which had increased to 136,881 in 1850, 
to 177,850 in i860, and 250,526 in 1870. By the recent 
annexation of the suburbs of Brighton, Charlestown, 
West Roxbury, etc., the population has been increased 
to 341,919 (in February, 1876). Population 362,876 in 
1880. On the gth of November, 1872, one of the most 
terrible conflagrations ever known in the United States 
swept away the principal business portion of Boston. 
The fire broke out on Saturday evening, and continued 
until noon on the following day, when it was brought 
under control, but again broke forth in consequence of 
an explosion of gas, about midnight, and raged until 7 
o'clock Monday morning. The district burnt over 
extended from Summer and Bedford street on the south, 
to near State street on the north, and from Washington 
street east to the harbor. About 800 of the finest 
buildings in the city were destroyed, causing a loss 
of $80,000,000. 

OBJECTS OF ANTIQUARIAN INTEREST. 

Among "buildings with a history," the most interest- 
ing in the United States, next to Independence Hall in 



t84 

Philadelphia, is Faneuil Hall. The famous edifice, the 
''cradle of liberty," is in Dock Square, which also has 
an historical fame, because of the meetings of the 
Revolutionary patriots that were held there. The 
building- was erected in 1742, by Peter Faneuil, a 
Huguenot merchant, and by him presented to the town. 
Its original dimensions were 100 by 40 feet. Destroyed 
by fire in 1761, it was rebuilt in 1763, and enlarged to 
its present dimensions in 1805. A full length portrait 
of the founder, together with the pictures of Washing- 
ton, by Stuart, of Webster, by Healy, of Samuel Adams, 
by Copely, and portraits of John Quincy Adams, 
Edward Everett, Abraham Lincoln, and Governor 
Andrew adorn the walls. The basement of the -hall is 
a market. The old State House, in Washington street, 
at the head of State street, was erected in 1748, and 
was for half a century the seat of the " Great and 
General Court of Massachusetts," being the building 
of which such frequent mention is made in revolu- 
tionary annals. It has long- been given up to business 
purposes, the interior having been completely 
remodeled, and the edifice surmounted by a roof which 
has wholly destroyed the quaint effect of the original 
architecture. Christ Church (Episcopal,) in Salem 
street, near Copp's Hill, is the oldest church in the 
city, having been erected in 1722. It has a loft} 
steeple, and in the tower is a fine chime of bells 
The Old South Church, corner of Washington anc 
Milk streets, is an object of much interest. It is ol 
brick, and was built in 1729, on the site where i\u 
first edifice of the society had stood since 1669. Th( 
church was used as a place of meeting by the heroej 
of '76, and during the British occupation of the cit} 



i85 

was used as a place for cavalry-drill. It barely 
escaped the flames in the great fire. The Old South 
Society having erected a new place of worship on 
Boylston street, the old building was . offered for sale, 
when a patriotic effort among the people originated 
a subscription for the purpose of raising funds to 
secure its preservation. King's Chapel (Unitarian), 
corner Tremont and School streets, was founded in 
1686, and the present building, a plain granite structure, 
erected in 1750-54. Adjoining the church is the first 
burying-ground established in Boston. In it are buried 
Isaac Johnson, "the Father of Boston," Governor 
Winthrop, John Cotton and other distinguished men. 
On thcv corner of Washington and School streets is the 
Old Corner Book Store, a building dating from 1712. 
The Old North Burying-ground, on the brow of 
Copp's Hill, was the second established in the city, 
and is still sacredly preserved. Here lie three fathers 
of the Puritan Church, Drs. Increase, Cotton and 
Samuel Mather. 

THE OLD CEMETERY IN THE COMMON. 

In that corner of the Common bounded by Tremont 
and Boylston streets, and lying directly between the 
Masonic Temple and the Public Library, is an old 
burying-ground, shut off from the Common and the 
streets by an iron fence. It was formerly known as the 
South, and later as the Central Burying ground. It was 
opened in 1756, but the oldest stone is dated 1761. The 
best known name upon any of the ancient stones is 
that of Monsieur Julien, the most noted restauranteur 
of the city a century past, and the inventor of the 
famous soup that still bears his name. This cemetery 



1 86 



is the least interesting of the old burying places of 
Boston, and is consequently seldom noticed by the 



stranger. 



There are, according to the directory, nearly two 
hundred hotels in the city. With that fact in view, I 
shall mention, first, the United States. In suggesting 
to intendino: visitors to Boston the name of the 



'fc. 



"UNITED STATES HOTEL," 

the proprietor feels satisfied in recommending the 
house for just what it is, no more, no less. I am at 
home when in the United States Hotel ; it pleases me, 
and I am positive it will please you. 

The United States Hotel is one of the oldest and 
best of the well-established hotels of Boston. Its 
fame is wide-spread. Its seal dates back to 1826, and 
from that early date to the present it has been main- 
tained up to the best standard, but never better than 
now. It is situated directly opposite the Boston & 
Albany, within two blocks of the Old Colony, and 
only a short distance from the New York »S: New 
England, and Providence Railroad stations, and is the 
nearest hotel to the retail portions of the city and 
the great commercial centers. 

The "United States " is occupied largely in winter by 
families owning their own private residences in the 
adjoining towns, who come into the city and make 
their residence at this famous old house for the winter 
months. During the summer season, therefore, their 
great family rooms are available for tourists, families 
and pleasure parties, giving accommodations that could 
not otherwise be afforded, and so allow guests the most 



i87 

extensive variety of rooms at the lowest possible 
charges. During the summer months the rates are 
reduced to $2.50, $3.00 and $3.50 per day, according to 
accommodations, with board ; rooms without board 
$1.00 and upwards, thus giving visitors an opportunity 
of making this hotel their permanent headquarters, 
from which to make daily excursions to the thousand 
places of historical interest with which the city and 
suburbs abound, and to the great manufacturing cities 
which surround it ; while the fifteen hundred summer 
resorts and boarding houses down the harbor and along 
the coast are available every fifteen minutes by boat or 
rail. Thus the !' United States" will be found not only 
a most accessible and convenient hotel on arriving at 
Boston, but will be found equally comfortable and 
economical for permanent as well as transient guests, 
while the facilities fqr reaching all the suburban local- 
ities and various sea shore resorts are unequaledby any 
Hotel in Boston. 

My dear friend, John B. Schoeffel, will, I am glad to 
know, manage this year his summer home, '' Manchester 
by the Sea," the finest resort on the coast. If you have 
time for only a call, take the Boston & Maine R. R., 
Gloucester branch ; only 35 miles from Boston. It is 
the summer home of Agnes Booth, John Gilbert, Joseph 
Proctor, Mrs. Bowers, Franklin Haven, Pres. Merchants 
Bank, and a host of others. Beautiful harbor and beach 
bathing nine months in the year, drives unsurpassed in 
America; therefore if you are looking for the best in 
the land visit Manchester by the Sea and be happy. 

One of the best traveling companions on a pleasure 
trip is a reliable Railway Guide, and we advise the 
tourist to get the best, as a cheap guide is like a cheap 
watch — never on time. 



As we hold that this little volume is not thrown 
away, but taken home for future reference, a little 
advice of how to start upon a trip, etc., would not come 
amiss. We say 

ist, Select your route. 2d, Buy your tickets and 
secure your parlor car seats. 3d, Show your tickets to 
the baggage master and have your baggage checked. 
4th, Go to the news stand and ask for The " Phat Boy's" 
17 years on the St. Lawrence, or The Pathfinder's Rail- 
way Guide, as it is the oldest railway guide published, and 
the July number will contain the best railroad map ever 
published. It is the only recognized mouthpiece of 
the Passenger Agents' Association ; one can be assured 
of its reliability. The Phat Boy requests his friends to 
send to them next spring for a copy of their summer 
tours to select your vacation trip. Address, Pathfinder, 
Boston, Mass. 5th, Don't bother the conductor by 
questions, as he has all he can do to attend to his train, 
and the Pathfinder's official tables and valuable maps 
tell the whole story. 

I have endeavored to describe faithfully and correctly 
the route over which you have passed, dear reader. 
There are, doubtless, some whose knowledge of parti- 
cular points is greater than my own ; to those I say 
most cheerfully, note them down, and forward to me, 
21 Chestnut Park, Rochester, N. Y., and I assure you, 
they shall have a position in the next edition of this 
work, as my object and aim is to make this a perfect 
guide for any person desirous of making this, the finest 
trip on the continent. 

While it has never been published, to my knowledge, 
it is a cold fact that Grover Cleveland paralyzed Dan 
Manning with ingratitude, and last June I received a 



i89 

dose of that commodity from the General Passenger 
Agent of the Boston & Lowell R. R. that would have 
paralyzed Cleveland. Therefore I say to my friends, 
whenever you can avoid patronizing that railroad with- 
out injury to the Central Vermont, do so, and you will 
do me the greatest favor of a lifetime. This spring I 
was obliged to make my usual trip and visit all the 
advertising patrons in my books and maps. Meeting a 
friend who mentioned having read of the unkind treat- 
ment dealt out to me by the above railroad, suggested 
that I take a day off and study the railroad geography 
of the country and see if there was not some way 
around, that was just as sure to reach my destination. 
A happy thought, said I, and I was not long in deter- 
mining to take the Fitchburg R. R. via Bellows Falls, 
to Windsor, Vermont, where I made connections and 
arrived in Montreal on time. Therefore I say to my 
friends if you patronize the Fitchburg R. R. between 
Montreal & Boston, may you have as pleasant a journey 
as the subscriber and I know you will never regret it. 

After returning home and resuming the cares and 
position which you left behind for this trip, may you be 
filled with animation, life and health acquired by your 
excursion trip down the St. Lawrence, etc., and the 
pleasant memories of scenes witnessed, wonders visited, 
as well as the beauties of nature revealed, you will have 
double the vigor to prosecute the duties devolving 
upon you, with only spare time on hand to speak to 
your acquaintances and friends, recommending them 
to make the same trip, not forgetting to mention The 
'That Boy's" 17 years on the St. Lawrence River as a 
guide for hotel and all points of interest connected with 
the trip. 1 will now lift my hat to the tourist and others 



190 

who have made the trip, and bid them a temporary 
farewell. Hoping to see, next vacation, yourself and 
friends, I only say 

ADIEU. 



fsfew York Qentral 

•»!■ St •!«• 

MUb50N K:iVEK RAlLROAb. 



GREAT 4-TRACK TRUNK LINE 

© © AND © © 

THE ONLY LINE ENTERING THE CITY OF NEW YORK 

THE MOST DIRECT ROUTE TO THE 

WEST, NORTH-WEST, NORTH and SOUTH-WEST 

Eight Magnificently Appointed Passenger Trains Daily 
Traverse the Empire State between New York 
and Buffalo and the West. 
SCENERY UNEQUALLED! 

EQUIPMENT UNSURPASSED! 

H^i WAGNER DRAWING-ROOM, SLEEPING AND DINING GARS i^ 

ON ALL EXPRESS TRAINS. 

DIRECT LINE TO NIAGARA FALLS 

ALI. TRAINS ARRIVE AT AND DEPART PROM 

"^-lORAND CKNTTRAIv STATTIONt^ 

4th Avenue and 42nd Street, New York. Larg-est and Finest Passenger 
Station in America, and the only one in the City of New Yorl?. 



Tickets over the New York* Central and connecting lines can be 
obtained at the following places : 

New York— Nos. 413, 785, 943, 1 Broadway, 12 Park Place, 53 West 
135th Street, 138th Street and Grand Central Stations. 

IJROOKI.YN— Nos. 333 Washington Street, 736 Fulton Street, and 398 
Bedford Avenue. 

John M. Toucey, George H. Daniels, 

General Manager. Gen' I Passenger Agent, 

GRAND CENTRAL STATION, NEW YORK. 



For Mosquito Bites and Insect Stings Use 
WARNER'S LOG CABIN EXTRACT. 

It will give Immediate and Permanent Relief. 



WARNER'S 




Warner's 
Warner's 

REMEDY. 
Warner's 
Warner's 

ternal use. 
Warner's 
Warner's 
Warner's 
Warner's 



Log Cabin SARSAPARILLA. 

Log Cabin COUGH AND CONSUMPTION 

Log Cabin HOPS AND BUCHU REMEDY. 
Log Cabin EXTRACT, for Internal and Ex- 
Log Cabin ROSE CREAM, for Catarrh. 
Log Cabin HAIR TONIC, for the hair. 
Log Cabin PLASTERS (Porous . 
Log Cabin LIVER PILLS. 
Manufactured only by 



ROCHESTER, N. T, 



Proprietors of Warner's Safe Cure. 



WARNER'S LOG CABIN SARSAPARILLA. 

The Largest Bottle and Best on the Market. 



The Sagamore^ 

ON GREEN ISLAND, LaKE GEORGE. 

All th^at is I'lch, strikir\g ar\d gorgeous iri r\at\ire, 
beautified by art, to rT\ake tl^e scer\e sUblirT\e ar\d 
ir\5pirir^g, l:\as beer\ dor^e. 



Connected with the Main Land by Bridge. 

ADDITIONS: 

TWO QUEEN ANNE COTTAGES, 

FIFTY IIOOMS FOB GUESTS^ 

MAGNIFICENT'EXTBA dining ROOM, 

Ausic Hall and Ball Roon. 

THIS SPLENDID NEW HOTEL IS OPEN TO GUESTS FROM 

JUNK 23RD UNT^IL OCTOBER 1ST. 

IT IS SUPPLIED WITH 

PASSENGER ELEVATOR, ELECTRIC LIGHTS AND BELLS IN 

EVERY ROOM, AS WELL AS OTHER MODERN 

CONVENIENCES. 

1T5 Location the nNE5T on the Lake. 

THE TABLE IS EXCELLENT, THE SERVICE 
UNSURPASSED. 

Easy of access by Boats from the North or South, Baldwin or Caldwell 
where trains with Palace Cars arrive from Saratoga, New York and intermediate 
points several times daily. 

For Descriptive Circulars and Plan of Rooms, Address, 

Tiessee and l:*roprietor. 
Bolton Landing, Warren Co., Lake George. 

N. B.— The Finest Livery in the vicinity of Lake George. 



?) 



WHAT P^ Q^ Q, MEANS. 
TO SUCH WE REPLY 



P hotggraphy DoNi Q uickly i 

The P. D.Q. CAMERA 

JUST OUT. 

THE LATEST IMTOEM[NT IN OETECTIVE Mim, 




Takes Pictures 4x5 in. 

insize, either vertically 

or horizontally. 



Can be used with 

either our Cut Films 

or Plates. 

PROTECTED BY FOUR PATENTS, AND ANOTHER PENDING. 

The Plates or Films used in this Camera are regular articles, same as 
used by Professionals. They can be purchased at any Photo Sto k house 
in this country, and can be developed by any photog-rapher, or by the 
party who uses them. There is nothiniz- of the Toy order about this 
Camera. It is intended for, and is capable of, producing- first-class work 
in every particular. 

Send Stamp for Sample 4m 5 or 5x8 Film and Carrier. 

Handsomely covered with black grained leather, and fitted 
with fine combination instantaneous achromatic landscape lens, 
with patent double dry plate or film holder. 

rnrcE, complete, only $20,00, 
E. & H. T. ANTHONY & CO., Manufacturers, 

591 BROADWAY, IVEW YORK. 



47 YEARS ESTABLISHED \H THIS LINE OF BUSINESS. 



/Ifturta^ * 1bill ^ Dotel. 

Park Avenue, Fortieth and Forty-first Streets, New York, 
(One Block from the Grand Central Station.) 




ilWMiiiiia w 



N. B.— Guests of the Murray Hill Hotel have their Baggage trans- 
ferred to and from the Grand Central Station Free of Charge. 



DUCKER PORTABLE HOUSES 

ABSOLUTELY WEATHER AND WATER PROOF. 




Are especially and adrnirably adapted for Summer Hotels, to be used 
as Annexes for lodging purposes, or for extra Dining-Room accommo 
dations, as well as for Billiard-Rooms, Boat Houses, Bowling Alleys, 
Shooting Galleries, etc. The attention of the public is called to the 
great variety of 

ARTISTIC SUMMER COTTAGES, 

LAWN PAVILIONS AND CAMP HOUSES, 

Now being constructed by this Company. These Houses are built 
in sections, and are put up without the use of nails, screws, or any 
external appliances whatever, and are erected without skilled labor. 
Send for Illustrated Catalogue. 




Ducket^ Portable House Company, 

239 Broadway, cor. Park Place, New York, 



UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT FOR 1890 



St. Louis Hotel 

PatiPonizcd by Theii* E3<cclleneies, the Gove»»noi» 
Genepal of Canada and Countess of Duffei»in. 




This Hotel, which is 
UNRIVALED FOR SIZE, STYLE AND LOCALITY 

in Quebec, is open through the year for pleasure 
or business travel, having 

ACCOMMODATION FOR 500 VISITORS. 

It is eligibly situated in the immediate vicinity of the most 
delightful and fashionable promenades: 

The Governor's Garden, The Citadel. The Esplanade, 

The Place d'Armes, Durham and Dufferin Terraces, 
1,400 ft. long, and 200 ft. above the River St. Lawrence, 

which furnishes the splendid views and magnificent scenery for 
which Quebec is so justly ce ebrated, and which is unsurpassed in 
any part of the world. 

WILLIAA E. RUSSELL, 

yA.ar\ager. 

N. JB.— Carriages should he engaged at the Hotel Office to avoid 
imposition. 






AusABLE Chasm 



ONE OF THE 



iN^a bural W oi)clers of ^he World. 



No Lover of Fir^e Sceriery 

sb^oUld orc\\t visiting it, 



SITUATED THREE MILES FROM LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 



New all-rail route direct to the Chasm entrance. Take cars at 
Port Kent, a station on the D. & H. Railroad, and stop- 
ping place for all boats on Lake Champlain. 



Lake View House, under same management as the Chasm. 

W. L. TRACY, Proprietor. 




W. D. GARRISON, Manager. 



SEA^SON 1890. 



8110 Handsomelj Furoished Rooms, at $1.00 per Oai and Upwards. 
European Plan. 

First-class Restaurant, Dining Rooms, Cafe and Lunch 
Counter, a la carte, at Moderate Prices. 



GUESTS' BAGGAGE 

TO AND FROM GRAND CENTRAL STATION FREE. 



Rooms where Ladies and Gentlemen may Check Valises, 
Coats, Parcels, etc., without charge. 



Travelers arriving via Grand Central Station 

SAVE CARRIAGE HIRE AND BAGGAGE EXPRESS 

by stopping at the Grand Union. 



All Elevated Railroads reached from this Hotel. Travelers 

can live well at the Grand Union for less money 

than at any other first-class Hotel in New York. 



Wkw on an excursion, the ISest is ^one too @ 




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THUEE KIIVGS, 

Turkish, I'critinc and Virg-inia. 
xMELLOW MIXTIRE, 

Turkish and Periciue. 
TURKISH And VIR(;iIl\IA. 

PERIUUE and VIRGINIA, 

GE.\U1I\E TURKISH 



FLAKE CUTS 



Especially adapted for the l*ipe, 

VANITY FAIR, OLD GOLD, VIRGINIA FLAKES, 

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POT POURRI and PICCADILLY, Granuhited Mixture. 

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A superb article; the standard of purity and excellence. 

The faultless union of two matchless tobaccos prevents that dryness of 
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simply perfection, and a luxury, and not a low priced article. 



41SATIN CIGARETTES-!^ 

Unsurpassed in Quality. Used bif people of refined taste. 

Highest award at paris, 1889. 



TRY OUR JAPANESE PERFUMED CIGARETTES. 



William S. Kimball & Co., 

17 FIRST PRIZE MEDALS. ROCHESTER, N. Y. 




THE DELAWARE & HUDSON R. R. 

THE LEADING TOURISTS LINE OF AMERICA, TO THE 6REAT 

ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS! 



Lake George, Lake Champlain, Ausable Chasm, Saratoga, 
Round Lake, Howe's Cave, Sharon Springs, Coopers- 
town, and the celebrated Gravity Railroad between 
Carbondale and Honesdale, Pa. 

THE FINEST COMBINATION OF 

PLEASURE AND HEALTH RESORTS IN THE WORLD, 



THE SHORTEST ROUTE BETWEEN 

NEW YORK AND IVIONTREAL. 

The completion of the CHATEAUr/A R. R. from Plattsburgh 
to SARANAC LAKE opens up the GreiL Mountain and Lake 
region of the ADIRONDACKS to direct rsl communication. Only 
one hour's stage ride to the famous LAKE P .ACID Resorts. 

g'^ MILES SHORTER than any other line fi '^ 
between New York and St. Regis ' ,akes, and 
only six miles of stage ride, and that over a 
first-class road. 
Send Six Cents in stamps for illustrated guide to 

J. W. BURDICK, Gen'i Pass. Agt., 
H. G. YOUNG, Gen'l Man. Albany, N. Y. 



'.T- 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




: i. 



